300td Sls ???
 

I'm having some problems with my sls and was hoping someone might have some advise. Here's the deal: i drove her for about a year with no problems at all, though she would drop down after sitting over night (internal leak right?), anyhow, several months ago the sls began working sporatically. Sometimes she would rise up, other times not, occasionaly after driving on the highway for a little while she would pop up. More recently she stoped working all together. I finally got under the car, moved the valve adjustment bar a little a sprayed it down with a lot of pb blaster (lots of rust under there). Next time i started it up she lifted right up and stayed that way for a day or so. She finally settled back down and won't lift back up, once again though, after highway driving she does sometimes seem to pop up, sometimes. I know my pump works, i also know i have a small leak on either my driverside shock or accumulater. I'm thinking i need a valve rebuild kit. Sound right, maybe some advise. Thanks.

Please put the year of your car in the post.

Yes, please list the year. The 78-85 300TD's SLS is different from the 87 300TD.

You say you know the pump is working, right? It would either work or not work to deliver sufficient pressure, that is my hunch on the pump and I've not seen any fail.
If the arm is moving all the time (meaning it isn't broken) then its probably a bad valve, leaking internally. I will post the results of finding a kit for the '79 300TD I am now working on. Stay tuned, if am able to get a kit I'll post pics on how to do the job.

Here's the part number for the Suspension valve rebuild kit. 000-586-00-32 The kit is about $70 last time I bought one. And I could only find it at the dealer. I am going to check at work tomorrow to see if I can get one cheaper from the parts supplier we use at Grease Works.
Here's a write-up member lrg did a while back.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/87555-wagon-rear-suspension-valve-rebuild.html?highlight=wagon+suspension+kit
Make sure when you pull the valve apart you pay very close attention to how things come apart. There are several small springs, and parts that can fall out. Also pay attention to how the cam that is inside is oriented. It can go back in several different ways. But only one way is the correct way.

Also, here is a write-up I did on Diagnosing your Self-leveling system - http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2226

Actually the valve assy could be fine. Usually,if a car drops overnight, or after a few hours, then the valve assy is allowing the pressure to bleed off, dropping the rear end. However, if there is a leak, as mentioned above, that could account for the pressure loss, and the sag-butt.
If it is rusty up under there, then maybe the arm isn't being moved by the torsion/sway bar thing, or even one of the sway bar links at the hub could be broken. Then the correct info on car height is not given to the valve assy via the link arm.
So, in my humble opinion, first the leaks needs to be found and corrected. At that point, then you can work your way to a solution, which is usually the accumulators.....;)

Correct, one difference, there is no rebuild kit for the rear valve on the 124s. You can get a new one for about $340 or a used one for half that.

Chris

That and the pumping system. The 78-85 used a pump mounted to a special casting on the cylinder head, the 87 used a tandem pump.

80 300td sorry
 

thanks for all the advise. it's a 1980, sorry. i'm gonna get under there today and i'll let you know what i find. thanks

any updates???