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  #1  
Old 05-04-2007, 03:25 AM
d.delano's Avatar
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week o fun- long post

Had a manifold leak, could hear the puff-puff, so I decided I was going to blitzkrieg this car and fix the oil leaks while I was at it, mainly from the turbo but also from the oil cooler hoses. I figured that the turbo seals would be easier to replace while the turbo was removed, and since I was going to have to fix the manifold leak it made sense to me to go ahead and remove it. Also got a used turbo for cheap and had it rebuilt and balanced and put it on too. I was living on borrowed time with the oil cooler hoses. Got it done, along with some new engine mounts, shocks, and new oil cooler. I did not damage the threads on mine upon removal, but had a brand new one on hand just in case and decided upon the new one because it was so shiny and matched well with the new oil cooler hoses. This was a lot of work no joke. Kind of expensive too. I have some observations and perhaps some tips for those that think they want to remove the turbo. Don't. Unless you have to don't. It is a huge pain in the a$$. The reason for the manifold leak was a loosening of the last two nuts on the firewall side which I think led to a gap in the manifold to cylinder head relationship, thereby buckling the metal from heat at the last exhaust ports and breaking/burning the little rim around that port on the gasket. So, whenever you have that air cleaner off, if you have a couple extensions and a universal, check the torque on those manifold nuts. Dear God what an ordeal. There is definitely some impossible to get to ***** around there. Lucky for me my hands can contort and get to just about anything but this is ridiculous. Make sure you pay some attention to that oil separator return tube also. If it's loose, as mine was, it will bang around and rub on the top turbo drain tube and wear through it, it will wear through it's retainer bracket on the back of the exhaust manifold(the bracket on mine was rubbed away and long gone), and it will bang around and wear at random points along its length. I engineered another bracket and secured it just about perfectly as it was from the factory and it is holding quite well. Also, some aluminum foil duct tape is good for covering the worn areas on the tube. Mine was worn almost through the metal where the bracket wore off. Remember the o-ring at the bottom nipple. Replacing the check valve is a good idea while you're down there because you will probably have the oil pan off too. Interestingly enough I had no problems snaking the new oil cooler hoses into place. I was dreading it but they almost shot right in with virtually zero issue. Hardest part about that was whilst removing the old engine shocks I had to use a nutcracker in the little 10mm nut at the bottom on one of them.
I have yet to drive the car as I just got finished with it, moreover I have to wait a while for some copper sealant to cure on Brian Carlton's EGR kit before I start the vehicle. Tomorrow I get to install that skid plate I got, after I inspect the car for leaks. I expect some leaks. With my luck I'll have leaks at the turbo drain I just know it. All new gaskets and o-rings but these cars love to leak. Got my fingers crossed the turbo doesn't over or underboost, had it set to crack at 12psi. I do NOT want to do this ever again!
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Last edited by d.delano; 05-04-2007 at 03:31 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2007, 10:19 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
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Good job, and good info. I have to replace the oil/air separator o-rings also.
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2007, 10:32 AM
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I would not use foil tape anywhere that gets heat, and could cause problems later on. the glue on the back will crystallize and diamond hard particles could be sucked into air stream or oil stream. not to mention it will fall off.
not sure what would be good to use, but perhaps jb-weld? John
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2007, 10:37 AM
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weeeeell

No leaks yet, and no more noise from exhaust manifold- but the engine shakes a hell of a lot more than it used to. Rebuilt turbo with .36 ar turbine housing spools quicker, and has faster response, but doesn't 'hit' like the old one. Boosts around 9psi max, I think I'll leave it there for now since I'm tired and just don't want to get into that adjustment process right now.
I'm thinking that since I used new engine mounts, new engine shocks, new upper engine shock mounts and new bushing kits for both I'm going to have to deal with a bit of shake for a while until the new parts kind of 'break in'. Tried adjusting the rack bolt, which is new also, to no avail.
These cars are like a barrel of monkeys. Knuckles have big chunks of flesh missing, arms bruised.
My advice- only replace what ails you. Don't go replacing stuff just because. The elders are right.
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2007, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano View Post
I expect some leaks. With my luck I'll have leaks at the turbo drain I just know it. All new gaskets and o-rings but these cars love to leak. Got my fingers crossed the turbo doesn't over or underboost, had it set to crack at 12psi. I do NOT want to do this ever again!
Just did this on a cal. car. You're right, the turbo drain started leaking(Turbo to upper drain pipe). Like you said, I dont want to do this ever again.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:05 PM
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pictorial

I'm uploading some photos I took while doing this.
Attached Thumbnails
week o fun- long post-coolerhose.jpg   week o fun- long post-newturbo.jpg   week o fun- long post-wornbracket.jpg   week o fun- long post-wearontube.jpg  
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'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:13 PM
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more

more photos
Attached Thumbnails
week o fun- long post-tubefix.jpg   week o fun- long post-yeoldemanifoldgasket.jpg   week o fun- long post-oldblowngasket.jpg   week o fun- long post-617.jpg  
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'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:15 PM
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I'm curious about something...

why is the 13mm oil pan plug stamped with M12 ?
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week o fun- long post-plug.jpg  
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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano View Post
why is the 13mm oil pan plug stamped with M12 ?
I'm guessing that the tapped hole in the drain pan is an M12 x 1.75 thread??
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:30 PM
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Thumbs up

wow, now I feel quite stupid! Didn't think about the thread designation.
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'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
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  #11  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by d.delano View Post
wow, now I feel quite stupid! Didn't think about the thread designation.
Nah........I do it all the time with the nuts on the hard lines. Call them 17mm because the wrench is 17 mm. But, the nut is much smaller............
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2007, 12:36 PM
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I wonder if my exhaust manifold is leaking.. my car makes a chugging sound at all speeds.. I just attribuited it to the fact its a diesel... now I have to check... err as well as replace my air filter mount. I have a spare set of manifolds. I wish I had a pyrometer to put in it now so I can get that supposed leak fixed(I guess its leaking )
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