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#16
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#17
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Even in a 123......
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SB
__________________
Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#18
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Vac guage in the morning
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I replaced the check valve today. I shook it, no rattle. Blew in it in both directions, no air went either way from what I could tell, but it had to be working some, I drove my car fine with brakes. Installed the new one just in case. The shop did say MB had a problem they never owned up to, that this problem does happen from time to time of hard pedal and nearly no brakes, on older cars like this (mine is 16 years old), and it's a problem with low vac on start up, intermittently. He says to rev it a few times in the morning to help bring the vac up. When I had a hard pedal the next day (the day after I took it in, wouldn't you know), I put it into neutral as he suggested, hit the accelerator, then braked, and it was fine. Of course in that amount of time, it could have cured itself anyways. Just curious.... if you had no vac whatsoever, it seems to me that you could/should still be able to stop. In my case, the hard pedal, no matter how hard you push, you have nearly no brakes. Thanks, Jeff 1991 300d, 105k |
#19
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From what I understand, disc brakes are far more dependent on power boost for effectiveness. With drum brakes, you have much more braking power with no boost than with discs.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#20
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All the focus seems to have been on the vacuum system. Have you looked at the linkage to the booster (for interference) and or the master cylinder? These seem a little more far fetched, but it appears that you are too that point that the out of the ordinary may seem plausible.
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Dean |
#21
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Hopefully the check valve has finished this problem off. I'll keep ya posted. Jeff |
#22
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Hey guys. Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I figure it's better to do that than make an entirely new one (just to say the same thing).
Anyway, my problem is very similiar to the original poster's issue, with slight variation. I can go for several months without issue (especially in the summer), but every once in a while - whammo, hard brake pedal that requires a heck of a lot of force to stop the car. I first noticed the issue about a year ago, and took it right to the mechanic (the car wouldn't shut off, either). He checked a bunch of things, suggested that maybe the vacuum pump had gone bad, and examined the check valve on the pump itself. After discovering that there was hardly any of it left, he stuck a new valve in and I was off on my merry way. Two weeks later, and my brakes were hard again / no vacuum. Frustrated, I bought myself a Mityvac and did my own testing. Whenever the 'incident' occured, I was getting 22+ Hg at the pump, but barely 8-10 at the booster - with a very shaky needle. Convinced that I had a bad main check valve, I replaced the main line. After that, all was well for ~6 months. Then, the issue started again. Same thing, 20+ Hg at the pump, but miserable vacuum at the other end of the booster line. What do you folks reccomend? Did I just get a dud part, and is that main black line + check valve just faulty, or do I have something else going wrong? Removing the line and slapping it around a bit, then reinstalling it, usually fixes the issue for quite some time.. I'm pretty sure it's a bad check valve again, but I want to be certain. Thanks!
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_______________________________ (Oo{=|=}oO) 1983 MB 300D USA, 212,000mi. 80's yellow/white. "Gunther" (Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D Euro, Turbo Added in Germany, 186,000mi [SOLD] Missing her dearly. (Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D USA Turbodiesel, 269,000mi. [SOLD] |
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