YABJQ (Yet Another Ball Joint Question) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 05-06-2007, 12:13 PM

Top 'o the morning

This Sunday's project is the left side lower ball joint. After reading the previous threads in this n.g. I'm intimidated

.

The idea now is to remove everything and have the old joint removed and new joint pressed in at the local shop. This plan is based on the last post (with photos) by tobybul here:
Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question

My questions then:
1. Is it safe enough to put a separate jack under the spring to keep it compressed.
2. How hard is it to remove the steering knuckle after unbolting the upper & lower ball joints? Do I need to use a spreader or does it just fall out?
3. Does the upper joint get destroyed in step (2)?
4. Should I suck it up and pay the local MB mechanic $250 for this job?

Clearly (4) is the big question. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

nota · #2 05-06-2007, 04:10 PM

Use A Spring Compressor

Most Auto Parts Stores Have Free Loaner Programs
Pay A Deposit And Get The Right Tool!!!!

WINGAS · #3 05-06-2007, 09:10 PM

PAY. ( Or should I ask, how did it go??)

tangofox007 · #4 05-06-2007, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleearl

1. Is it safe enough to put a separate jack under the spring to keep it compressed.

That's the procedure specified in the MB service manual.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleearl

2. How hard is it to remove the steering knuckle after unbolting the upper & lower ball joints? Do I need to use a spreader or does it just fall out?

It won't "just fall out." You will need a separator. NAPA sells a nice lever type. You can also use a tie rod puller on the upper joint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleearl

3. Does the upper joint get destroyed in step (2)?

Not if you use the right tool.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleearl

4. Should I suck it up and pay the local MB mechanic $250 for this job?

How are you going to press the new joint in? That's the hard part.

mespe · #5 05-06-2007, 10:34 PM

I just recently replaced the lower ball joint in my 1984 300SD. it really wasn;t too bad. I used a puller to free up the upper ball joint. The lower ball joint was pressed in with a ball joint press, I had to remove the rubber BJ cover to press in the ball joint.

Yes you MUST remove the steering knuckle to remove the lower ball joint. Put it in between two pieces of wood in a vise and pound away.

Good luck

#6 05-06-2007, 11:15 PM

just take the whole hub out; bash that upper joint a couple of times on the side with a big hammer till it falls out, do the same with the bottom one, maybe whilst having some force on it with a puller or fork, hold the hub upside down, bash out the old ball joint with a hammer (bash the bottom of it of course) and go to mb with the new joint. my mb dealer pressed it in for free. that was a 126. don't know about the 123 but on the 126 you don't need to hold the spring in place. just when putting the hub back you have to use some force to get things straight because of the 3rd alignment-rod..

DeliveryValve · #7 05-07-2007, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henrydupont

just take the whole hub out; bash that upper joint a couple of times on the side with a big hammer till it falls out, do the same with the bottom one, maybe whilst having some force on it with a puller or fork, hold the hub upside down, bash out the old ball joint with a hammer (bash the bottom of it of course) and go to mb with the new joint. my mb dealer pressed it in for free. that was a 126. don't know about the 123 but on the 126 you don't need to hold the spring in place. just when putting the hub back you have to use some force to get things straight because of the 3rd alignment-rod..

I think this is an effective method (if the area is not too rusty), one good hard swing is all you need by a 2-3 lbs ball peen or cross peen hammer will allow the joint to fall out (see pic to location to hit... Don't worry these steering knuckles can take the hard pounding). And don't hit the joint because you will mushroom the bolt and then it will be hard to take out.

To get the lower one out you may need to use a fork. But again, the fork will destroy the ball joint.

#8 05-07-2007, 09:33 AM

Thanks for encouraging responses!

I was going to take it to the local MB shop but you've inspired me to give it another shot ... I guess I just have to hit those joints harder

.

bodyart27 · #9 05-07-2007, 10:32 AM

this is a write up I did - might get some tips:

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

vstech · #10 05-07-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmarzan

I think this is an effective method (if the area is not too rusty), one good hard swing is all you need by a 2-3 lbs ball peen or cross peen hammer will allow the joint to fall out (see pic to location to hit... Don't worry these steering knuckles can take the hard pounding). And don't hit the joint because you will mushroom the bolt and then it will be hard to take out.

To get the lower one out you may need to use a fork. But again, the fork will destroy the ball joint.

actually, in the picture here, I would hit straight on like the hammer was coming from the camera. if you hit from the side as pictured, the arm will flex too much to properly shake out the ball joint, unless supported on the opposite side with another hammer.
John
oh, and be sure to check the arm bushings, if they are bad, it is cheaper to just get new arms with the bushings and balljoints already installed. 80.00 or so from dieselgiant.com