Lower Ball Joint Question....well the car is a Diesel..... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Shorebilly · #1 05-11-2007, 09:09 AM

Folks,
I am investigating my "Lower Ball Joint", I have been hearing a noise like a ball bearing rumble for the past few days......from driving by a rocky roadside I began to listen.....determined that the noise is originating from my left front wheel bearing.....this AM I jacked up the car to spin the wheel and listen, and to wiggle the tire to check for excessive play......found some movement in the tire......not in the up/down axis, but in the left/right axis.....looked under car at the "steering knuckles" (German for Ball Joint) as I twisted the tire......and I find some movement of the Ball Joint in the left/right axis........so it looks like I'm gonna have to do at least one Ball Joint sometime relatively soon......car is not showing any abnormal tire wear, and I need to drive about 1,000 miles (round trip) to attend the NASCAR Race in Dover on June 03.......looked at the MB Service Manual.....read a real horror story over in the DIY section of this forum....so I intend to put off the Ball Joint M&R until I return.....gonna change that wheel bearing, will order bearing kit later today......

What I would like to know, is .....do I need Ball Joint Installation Tool, MB# 116 589 04 62 00 ?? I seem to remember reading some thread, sometime back, regarding tools needed/recommended to do the Ball Joints on the W123......

Thanx Guys,
SB

Carrameow · #2 05-11-2007, 09:28 AM

In the end a machine shop can press them a lot easier

bodyart27 · #3 05-11-2007, 09:40 AM

wasn't sure which car you were refering to - in this write up you can see the tool I used for my 126 chassis

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

#4 05-11-2007, 09:55 AM

I did this job Monday on my 240d thanks to inspiration from this group ...

Here's my basic checklist:

1. Jack up the car.
2. Put a separate jack under the spring.
3. Remove the wheel, caliper & dust shield.
4. Loosen nut under upper ball joint.
5. Pound steering knuckle below UBJ; tried puller but small hammer worked better.
6. Remove nut over lower ball joint.
7. Swing steering knuckle out to give a clear shot at the top of the LBJ.
8. Hit LBJ downwards with small sledge (I used 3 pound). Pad the floor so the axle doesn't hit the concrete.
9. Take steering knuckle (with LBJ still installed) to machine shop. Have them remove & press in new LBJ with 40 ton press.
10. Pay the nice man $25.
11. Crack another beer & re-install.

Good luck!

dannym · #5 05-11-2007, 10:31 AM

ball joints can easily be done without any real costly tools. I basically followed these directions:
http://www.diymbrepair.com/FrontSuspension/balljoint/

Post #2 here shows the rental Autozone press at work:
ball joint replacement and cheap tools
I show the proper tool to pop the upper ball joint in post #11.

Post #7 here tells where to get cheap tools for the job:
W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor

Here's a link to a lot more:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=1362506

-A pickle fork for the lower ball joint. Have to trim the tip off one side a little. Don't worry Autozone won't mind. You will have to pound hard so get a good 5lb sledge hammer.
If you want to waste your money you can buy the tool.
-A ball joint popper for the upper joint. Leave the bolt on so you don't crush the threads.
-A large socket and a hammer to get the old joint out. And a good vise.
-Joint press rental from Autozone to get the new joint in.

Installation is reverse from removal. repeat on other side.

Danny

odie · #6 05-11-2007, 03:05 PM

I used the autozone free-rental tool to do the ball joints on my 82 wagon.

Not a perfect tool but it worked fine for the MB

Shorebilly · #7 05-11-2007, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleearl

I did this job Monday on my 240d thanks to inspiration from this group ...

Here's my basic checklist:

1. Jack up the car.
2. Put a separate jack under the spring.
3. Remove the wheel, caliper & dust shield.
4. Loosen nut under upper ball joint.
5. Pound steering knuckle below UBJ; tried puller but small hammer worked better.
6. Remove nut over lower ball joint.
7. Swing steering knuckle out to give a clear shot at the top of the LBJ.
8. Hit LBJ downwards with small sledge (I used 3 pound). Pad the floor so the axle doesn't hit the concrete.
9. Take steering knuckle (with LBJ still installed) to machine shop. Have them remove & press in new LBJ with 40 ton press.
10. Pay the nice man $25.
11. Crack another beer & re-install.

Good luck!

I have access to the equipment at a machine shop (Vintage Harley Restoration shop) and can haul the parts over there.......some of you folks may remember that around last Thanksgiving I was intending to do some work over there, and my friend Ronnie had hit a deer while driving his motorcycle......the good news is that he is back at home after months of rehab......he still will not wear anything more than, what I call a half hat type helmet......and he *****es that healing up after 50 is a real bummer.....he has a little bit of a memory problem, but has the use of all of his body functions and his mechanical ability (genius!)........no need to pay the nice man $25, but I will take a 12 pack when I do this......

Thanx for the input guys.....I didn't think that I would need that $395.00 tool.....would have rented it thru Performance Products if I did need it (haven't actually looked into Perf Prod tool rental program) so if anyone had had any experience with renting tools from Perf prod, please feel free to chime in.....

SB