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Front end rebuild, help me go shopping. What do i need?
i posted this question in another thread, but was leading the original thread astray.
i am looking at doing a Front end rebuild on my 85 300D. everything except for the tierods (already changed) needs to be replaced. i would like to do as much myself as i can, but i am still a learning mechanic. i dont have any super special tools, and no air tools either. I HAVE replaced my rear axles, motor mounts, love doing valve adjustments, and smalller jobs. so i am not a total newb. i know that the lower control arms will need to be done at a good shop or dealer, so in what order can i replace stuff then slowly drive it to the dealer to have them do the lower arms and align the car? also what parts do i order. if you guys can help me out that would be great. i would buy as much as i can from phil. ohh ya, will get bilstein's comforts and new springs (from the group buy via this forum) i will let the shop do the springs. i am lacking the expensive tools, as i am a recent college grad that lived in a small apartment. in march i will rent a house, and my job will allow me the liberty to stock my garage with tools. that will probably be the timeframe that i will be doing the rebuild. another question, are ball joints hard to replace? is there an easier way than just browsing phil's site for bushings/parts i would need?
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#2
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Is there are reason you are doing everything all at once, or are you looking for advice on what to change first?
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Paul 2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi |
#3
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Quote:
Many of the jobs overlap.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#4
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might as well knock out everything when you have the spring compressor....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#5
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ya that is the idea. i finally have a great job that will allow me to pretty much rebuild it. want to get as much done as i can in one swing. spring compressor i will leave to the shop also.
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#6
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Quote:
You can't do much without pulling the spring to be safe. The tool is only about $200, cheaper than any shop bill could ever be.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#7
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Its not that difficult....
I have done the project you describe (complete front end rebuild) on my previous 300D, an '85.
the best way to look at this is that there are two basic categories of replacement components...those for which you need the spring compressor, and those that don't. 1) Need spring compressor springs ball joints (pressed into the lower control arm near wheel)..you need to rent the special press to install. lower control arm bushings (can be banged out with simple tools, and pressed in with nuts, bolts and large washers. guide rod mounts (attach at foot wells) (no special tools) guide rod kit (metal rings and bushings that attach the other end of the guide rod to the lower control arm near the ball joint (no special tools) 2) Don't need spring compressor. shock absorbers (remove tires for access, AND MAKE SURE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM IS SUPPORTED WITH BLOCK OR BOTTLE JACK, otherwise the whole hub will drop when you disconnect the shock and the main spring will pop out and kill someone...the shock acts as the "stop") steering shock (easy, no special tools) tie rod assemblies (easy, no special tools, can be frustrating to separate joints with pickle fork) upper control arms (easy, no special tools, remove the tire for access, and support the lower control arm with a bottle jack or block so the assembly is not under tension)...in addition to the control arms, make sure you get the rubber bushings...you need two for each upper control arms, and they mount at the torsion bar. drag link (easy, no special tools, can be frustrating to separate with pickle fork) idler arm repair kit....part of steering...connects pitman arm to drag link (very easy, no special tools) A few extra pointers: DO NOT use any other type of spring compressor other than the one designed for this car. It is very straightforward to use, and very safe with this tool. DO NOT disconnect shock absorbers unless the lower control arm is supported All of these repair items are fairly easy and straightforward, however, you will need a couple of larger box end wrenches (19mm?), sockets, breaker bars, etc. for the bigger items (mainly the lower control arm bolts) When reinstalling rubber parts (bushings, etc.) slather with silicone grease (Sylglide) to facilitate installation. Get a set of pickle forks for separating the compression joints on tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. Also get a can of PB Blaster to soak joints. Also be prepared with a blow torch and a can of freon duster to heat and freeze a tough joint to help get it apart. Use anti seize compound on all threaded joints, especially those that need to be adjusted during front end alignment. When replacing bushings and ball joints in the lower control arm, remove the LCA from the car, mount in vise, do the bushings first (to minimize the chance of damaging rubber boot on new ball joint) Removing ball joints is difficult...mount the lower control arm in big vise and bang like hell with hammer and chisel...be careful not to crack or chip or distort the lower control arm where ball joint mounts. Before installing the new ball joints, put them in the freezer over night, and press in when cold...makes it a little easier. If you need brake pads, calipers, rotors, or wheel bearings, this is a good time to do these things, since all the stuff is removed. I hope I haven't missed something. If I have, let me know and I will edit. Good Luck, Mark
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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver) 1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky) |
#8
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The service manual does not support that notion.
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#9
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Is the lower ball joint mounted in the control arm or is it mounted in the steering knuckle?
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#10
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Well I'd rather not have a spring go through my stomach.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#11
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Many parts available at ***************, also ***********************, have dealy with both, go with the lower price.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#12
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I bought a front end rebuild kit off ebay for $290ish. Look around I'm sure its still there.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#13
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You will need a ball joint press and a spring compressor. This job is fairly simple if you have these two tools and some time. Do it all in one shot. The upper control arms have balljoints and bushings already installed. Get new bushings for the swaybar, inners and outers. The lower control arms will need the bushings pressed in. I used a large C-clamp and various 1/2drive sockets to press the old bushings out and the new in. Do the lower balljoints and replace the idler arm, strut rod mount and the steering stabilizer. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#14
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you can rent the spring compressor from autozone for $40. and getting the ball joints pressed in can be done at any machine shop for around $50.
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1983 300SD W126 w/276k miles |
#15
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Don't even think about using an Autozone strut spring compressor on a Mercedes spring!!!!
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