123 Wagon Spring Struts-2 Versions-Interchangeable?
Greetings From "The Big Easy" (which isn't so big anymore and sure isn't easy),
I recently picked up an '82 300TDt with a few major issues but in really nice shape on the outside, sort of like a Pretty Blonde. I have searched this forum and the DIY forum and gotten quite a bit of good information. The first issue I am tackling is the rear (SLS) suspension system. Somewhere along the line some idiot CUT OUT both the pressure line, about 3" from the front pressure hose fitting, and the return line, about 1' from the supply tank and fabricated some fitting out of the two cut out pieces so the pump is hooked directly to the supply tank and just makes a continuous loop. In the rear they just disconnected the lines from the accumulators to the struts and installed SensaTrac shocks. What I am curious about is that in reading the 123 service manual I noticed that there are two versions of Struts. The first was produced up until August of '82 and the other began in September of '82. Since my car was manufactured in Nov '81 it must have been originally equipped with V#1 Struts (confirmed by shape of frame crossmember). Since I have read multiple times in my research that Struts seldom go bad I was going to try and pull some off another wagon as opposed to buying new ones. Has anyone out there encountered this situation? According to the manual I think I have to go with V#1 Struts; "Owing to the modification of the frame floor, a conversion from the 1st version to the second version is not possible," in which case I am limited in cars I can pull from. Has anyone found a way to adapt V#2 Struts to pre Sept '82 vehicles? Or should I go with new ones and if so, can I even find them? If I do have to go with V#1 Struts I am confused by the installation procedure; "move rear end of vehicle into level specified for loaded vehicle. For this purpose, measure semi-trailing arm position of rear axle and load rear end accordingly by placing weights into passenger compartment." I am unclear as to what this is telling me. Can anyone clarify exactly what this means? It would be alot easier if I could go with V#2 as the manual says "for install of version 2 the level of the vehicle can be neglected." Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated. peace, woody |
A Little Help
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good luck finding anything other than a TD with the SLS system. they are out there, but VERY RARE>
and almost all euro. John |
Learning on the Fly; 1 strut, 2 bushing kits
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peace, woody |
Hi Woody,
I'm right in the middle of chopping and changing the rear strut and trailing arm from a scrap 123 ambulance onto my 240td. I think that the stuff about weighting the car down when reinstalling only applies if you're using version 1: "Upper suspension of spring struts of 1 st version (up to August 1982) consists of ball shell rubber mounts. Assemble only at level specified for loaded vehicle! If this assembly instruction is not complied with, distortion of bearing and thereby of spring strut piston rod involves the risk of rattling noises and early wear both of bearing as well as of the spring strut itself." I take this to read that version 2 struts can be refitted more or less like a conventional shocker.. but if I mess up I'll let ya know! I've also read that the struts don't change.. but I've got two slightly different ones on the bench here: 1 is like shown in the manual, the other has a threaded rod that takes a nut at the top and the hydraulic connections are different too....right now I can't remove the recessed allen headed bolt holding in the upper mount... why didn't they use a nut? Take care Giles |
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Using Version 1-pre 8/82 Vehicle
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Unfortunately I am installing the struts on an '82 wagon (mfd 11/81) so I have to use the version 1 upper suspension mounts which means i have to: Assemble only at level specified for loaded vehicle! What is this level and with how much weight in it? It also says to measure semi-trailing arm position of rear axle and load rear end accordingly. No Comprende! As for the struts, the ones I pulled today are also like the ones in the manual with the hex bolt on top. i got lucky that I had a #6 hex attachment for my wratchet and they came right out. I did have to fight the pressure hose attached to the strut a little but all in all it was a good day. i also got two rear springs out of the deal. i don't know anything about the other type of strut you have as i haven't come across any yet in my journey into the heart of the suspension but perhaps they are out of the non-wagon Euro sedans that were mentioned earlier. Maybe the problem with the written portion of the manual is in the translation from German. |
Woody,
It also says to look at section 40-310 (which I don't have) to get the measurements. I guess you then just jack it up to where it should be and carry on... have fun Giles |
Proper Height?
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Heck Woody,
I've had both styles, yet never knew there was a difference. :o I have only had to replace accumulators, a pump and the high pressure hose on both. Haven't had a strut issue yet, and hope to keep the string alive...... I am watching your thread though with interest. Good luck! |
It is utterly confusing
I agree that the FSM is very confusing on this issue. It says to load the vehicle to the "loaded" position. If the SLS system is working properly, the "loaded" position should be the same as an unloaded position. When I rebuilt my rear suspension last year I didn't have the FSM and just put everything together in the full droop position. I have a rattle somewhere back there when I go over bumps, and I am suspecting the improper installment as the culprit. To be honest, I really don't understand how installing at a specific level will really change things though.
bb |
So I'm not alone
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It does say in section 32-610 Pg.3 that "if assembly instruction (at level specified for loaded vehicle) is not complied with, distortion of the bearing and thereby of spring strut piston rod involves the risk of rattling noises and early wear both of the bearing as well as of the spring strut itself." I'm assuming this is the situation with your wagon and what i am trying to avoid in my situation. Unfortunately no one seems to know the answer. I even called the best Mercedes mechanic I know out in Glenwood Springs, CO today and he didn't know about this either!! Who to go to next??? Anyone know the best of the best. I know someone out there has the answer. peace, woody p.s. make sure you check your swaybars in the back. They can often be the cause of rattling in the rear end. |
Bumped at request of whunter
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Hmmm
I will review this ASAP, after work.
Have a great day. |
Mystery Values
Roy,
If you can somehow come up with the values specified in table "vehicle level on rear axle under load" 40-310 it would probably go a long way towards solving this mystery. Specifically the amount of weight that needs to be put into the vehicle for it to be considered "loaded" and the measurement parameters of semi-trailing arm position of the rear axle under load. thanks for your assistance, woody |
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