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  #1  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:41 PM
rackley's Avatar
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98 W210 Trunk Stuck (embarrasing)

Hello All,

Well I was in the middle of a shock swap job for the rear shocks and it was getting late, so I called it a night and closed the trunk so the battery wouldn't run down.

Go to open it the next day and it won't open. I tried the remote trunk release, the button on the trunk, using the key in the trunk, and the trunk release button in the center console as well. NOTHING. I don't even hear the latch moving, and I think I know why.

The trunk release button in the center console still has its LED lit up, so it thinks the trunk is still open. This makes sense because I had to remove the hard plastic trim to get the carpet out, so the push button that closes when the trunk closes isn't pushing in far enough to "see" the trunk as being closed.

Since the trunk is "open" it won't actuate the latch.

Any ideas?

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  #2  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:44 PM
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I'd try disconnecting the battery, wait a little bit and reconnect...maybe you can reset it that way. Make sure you know your radio code first though as that will wipe it out.

Also, make sure the lid isn't just stuck down and not latched. My gasket gets sticky and sometimes takes a goiod pull to open it up even after the latch has opened.
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  #3  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:50 PM
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I thought about the battery thing too and I'll probably be trying it tonight.

I tried pulling up and pushing down (in the hopes of closing that switch) but neither seemed to help.

A couple other ideas I was tossing around was trying to use a thin screwdriver to see if I could get past the weather stripping to "close" the switch (which I doubt will work) or digging up the electrical diagrams (nightmare) to try to find the wires to that switch. If they run outside the trunk to a computer elsewhere I can probably dig them out of a wiring bundle elsewhere in the car and short them out temporarily. However, this would involve hours of digging through the wiring diagrams and physical digging through wire bundles..
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:50 PM
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You prob know now you only need to remove the rear fuel tank covering to get to the shocks.

Have you tried leaning on the lid while activating or pushing the release. Maybe it has too much tension for the catch to let loose?
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2007, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
You prob know now you only need to remove the rear fuel tank covering to get to the shocks.

Have you tried leaning on the lid while activating or pushing the release. Maybe it has too much tension for the catch to let loose?
Yep, I've tried that. I may try it again though :-) I'm convinced if I can just get that switch to close then it will pop right open like normal.
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  #6  
Old 05-23-2007, 02:17 PM
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Truck Stunk? Try some febreeze.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2007, 06:00 PM
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Isn't the trunk vacuum actuated?

Possibly you could find that vacuum pipe, and rig it to something else.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2007, 06:58 PM
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Or just MityVac it....yeah, that's a great idea too! Just have to find where it terminates..
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2007, 10:46 PM
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If it's vacuum, it probably has a vacuum switch under the back seat.
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2007, 11:30 PM
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I fixed the problem fairly easily with the help of the ETM DVD.

If anyone runs into this problem in the future this is what you need to do:

Remove the rear seat cushion to access the battery area. Next to the battery is the locking system control module. Find the yellow/red wire and snip it in an area where you have enough room to strip and re-crimp it. If you just pull a little extra for slack this is easy to do.

Once the wire is clipped it will "see" the trunk as closed since the switch will no longer be sinking the voltage through the switch. The central locking system will then open the trunk with no problems. When trunk is opened, reconnect the wire with a butt connector.

Pictures of where wire is:
http://www.vocontrol.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=373

Easy fix, but an annoying sidetrack. Took me longer to do this than replace the 2nd shock. BTW, the shock swaps are SUPER easy. Since the shocks are external to the springs you don't even need a spring compressor as long as you have a decent hydraulic jack.

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