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  #1  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:10 AM
bops1231
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mount Pleasant SC
Posts: 13
Noisy Throwout bearing -- how much longer?

'82 240D, original clutch at 210Kmiles. Clutch continues to work fine, but throwout bearing is making noise when engaged, and when the clutch pedal is depressed it slows the engine when idling (and makes starting more difficult, which I remedy by starting in neutral with the pedal not engaged).

Question is: How much longer can I drive before that trannie and clutch have to come out and be overhauled? Obviously, if I'm going to replace the throwout bearing, I'll replace the pressure plate, friction plate, etc. while it's out.

Thanks,

John in Charleston


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  #2  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:38 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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You are living on borrowed time the minute any bearing begins making noise. I had the same thing happen in a gasser Ford POS. I needed it to last a week so I could make itto payday. It lived for 3 days after it began chattering.
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  #3  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:43 AM
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I cant tell you how long you have but if its so bad its effecting your RPMs I would be getting the parts together for the job. The tranny removal is pretty easy. After letting the flex plate go, (leaving it on the tranny) you can wedge up the drive shaft, and it will be out of the way. Dont break the hydraulic line, simply cut it lose from the bell housing and wire it up out of the way, then you wont have too bleed the system. I would also replace the pressure plate and disc while your in there.

One other thing. Leave the tranny cross member on the tranny, and just cut the two 17mm bolts lose holding it to the body. replace the mount if need be when the trannys out.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #4  
Old 05-24-2007, 11:19 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Location: Central FL
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Yeah, you probably don't have that much time, but it's not too hard of a job. You are lucky to have the later all - alloy transmission that is very light.

I think Stevo is suggesting that you remove the slave cylinder before you pull the tranny. I might suggest you replace it if it hasn't been done recently. Bleeding a new one is a PITA but once you are down WAY under there its no fun going back in again.

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #5  
Old 05-24-2007, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
Yeah, you probably don't have that much time, but it's not too hard of a job. You are lucky to have the later all - alloy transmission that is very light.

I think Stevo is suggesting that you remove the slave cylinder before you pull the tranny. I might suggest you replace it if it hasn't been done recently. Bleeding a new one is a PITA but once you are down WAY under there its no fun going back in again.

Rick
Oh yah, I shoulda said slave cyl, just remove the two 13mm bolts and wire it up outa the way. The slave is pretty easy to replace but that master is a bugger. I take out the driver seat and sometimes use the old push rod.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2007, 04:54 PM
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Location: Columbia, Missouri
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clutch master

Replacing the clutch master has to be one of the most difficult, uncomfortable procedures to do on these cars. And as hard as the 240D is the 190D is about 50% MORE difficult. There is no room to get your tools or fingers to get those two bolts off the master or replace the circlip on the rod connector. The only good thing is that the clutch self bleeds with some foot work and about 24 hours sitting in the driveway.

Also, I have confirmed by experience that if you replace the master, the slave should be replaced as I have killed two slaves soon after replacing the master cylinder. Anytime I read posts on the clutch hydraulics the hair stands up on the back of my neck.

Kevin
1979 240D manual
1984 190D manual
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  #7  
Old 05-24-2007, 06:27 PM
bops1231
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mount Pleasant SC
Posts: 13
Thanks!

Thanks for the advice, guys. I used to do clutches on Volvos quite regularly, so have an idea what's involved. The slave cylinder is reasonably new--ten years or so.

Do I gather that the Sachs clutch is the preferred manufacturer? Can you recommend a source?

I'll do the whole trick.

Cheers,

bops
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  #8  
Old 05-24-2007, 08:08 PM
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I think the reasons for replacing the slave now is that you are already there and its a not uncommon part to fail because of its dependent location. They seem to succumb to the effects of water in the fluid leading to corrosion, leaking etc. I'd look at what Phil has to offer. I've bought both of my clutch masters here and need to order the slaves from here soon.

Kevin
1979 240D manual
1984 190D manual
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  #9  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:55 PM
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Location: Weston, FL
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You can get your parts here. This link may help you:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM616Clutch240D

Scott
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
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  #10  
Old 05-24-2007, 11:08 PM
bops1231
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mount Pleasant SC
Posts: 13
Kevin,

Got an email or website for Phil???

bops
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  #11  
Old 05-24-2007, 11:23 PM
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Just click on the buy parts button at the top of the page.

Kevin
1979 240D manual
1984 190D manual
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  #12  
Old 05-25-2007, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bops1231 View Post
Thanks for the advice, guys. I used to do clutches on Volvos quite regularly,
bops
Good, cause you probably have the alignment tool lying around, I use the input shaft from a Volvo tranny, same splines.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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