That is a ridiculous statement, and smacks of elitism. The hose and clamps I used are top quality and in no way reflect "hillbilly enginineering". The clamps are designed to be torqued, and the hose is good to 350psi. All in all it took 30 minutes and $30 in materials to make a repair that will last the life of the cooler/engine. I've been driving on it hard for two months, the connections are dry and tight with no issues whatsoever.

Funola, I apologize that I linked the wrong hose. It's 5/8" ID (my mistake on the size), and it is low pressure HYDRAULIC HOSE. Sorry the right part number is 5645K19, and I apologize for the late response too, I don't normally visit this site over the weekend.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Here's a Ford racing oil cooler kit from Summit Racing. Click on the "larger image". What do you see? 2 hoses, 4 NPT barb fittings, 4 hose clamps. What do you have to say?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FMS%2DM%2D6642%2DS101&N=700+304697+115&autoview=sku

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

These things are not that hard to change. sure you have to raise up the car, undo the shock mount, motormount. but then you might discover
those need to be replaced anyway. kill two bird with one stone.
as far as removing the lines from the oil filter housing, take a 1 1/6 box
wrench and make a flair nut wrench out of it. easy to do. you might have
to grind down the sides to clear the IP. it`s tight in there. piece of cake.
these automobiles are a Mercedes Benz, not some cheap rice rocket.
these are the finest automobiles ever made.
do it right the first time, and keep on truckin
charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Have you actually done the job yourself? If it was not a PITA job, I would get it off the car and bring to a hydraulic shop and have the highest quality hose crimped on for FREE.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Yes I have. It was easy. Like I said in an earlier post(nobody ever reads each others posts here) I did the job in under two hours.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

IMHO,

How many 1984ish Fords with 300k miles or more are still on the road?

I used to sell a/c hose to people who wanted to use clamps, they even make special a/c hose clamps. Know what? They all came apart or leaked, even on hoses used on the low side, which has the same pressure as the oil cooler hoses.

I don't know about $100.00 per hose, it's more like $60 a hose if you shop around.

An OEM style hose is cheap insurance for a 5 thousand dollar motor, and I have seen plenty of nice diesel Mercedes cars sent to the graveyard when the oil cooler lines blew. The rear view mirror on my '84 300D came out of a real nice car that the owner refused to change a weeping lower oil cooler hose on, a few weeks later the motor blew. If you are leaking, the hose coould blow at any second. I was charging the a/c on a customers 1984 300SD once, and heard a pop. I dove thru the window and shut the motor off, thank goodness I knew what the sound was and the car at idle, or else the motor would have been toast. The hose blew in the middle, where no signs of wear were evident. The hoses were simply old, and the car owner got a very lucky break. I drained about two quarts out of the oil pan when I changed the hoses.

Clamps will eat into the hose, and they will loosen over time. That's why the oil cooler hoses use crimp shells, like an a/c hose or hydraulic hose.

Sorry to be an "elitist," but I do prefer my oil inside the engine (I'm just funny like that) and I would not recommend adding any more mechanical connections to the oil system, certainly not hose clamps (top quality, or otherwise). Do you see hose clamps anyplace else on the oil system, ever wonder why? I think "hillbilly enginineering" describes it perfectly, if I saw a hack like that on a car I was considering buying I would run away.

As someone said, it's your car and your money. You can't say you weren't warned. Good luck.

I would say that there is a reason I don't drive fords, especially fords with cheap after-market accessories. I doubt that even ford would use hose clamps on an oil system from the factory (but then again, there must be a reason they're going broke).

Sorry, am I being elitist again?

You know, if you were working on the car instead of typing, the hoses would be out by now.

I think funola, you seek to prove the forum, the Mercedes engineers, and all the people who have lost a hose at speed wrong when we say original parts are required. OK.

So you go to the hose fitter shop with your old hose. You still have to put the car on ramps, remove engine mounts and hose brackets, jack the engine up, etc. to get them out.

After you get them out, you have to take them to the shop for re-hosing, for FREE as you boast. Good job! Congrats on knowing a hoser that will hose you for FREE.

OK- you gotta go back home and put the new hoses on. Hopefully there is enough time left in the day to do this.

If you had ordered new OE hoses you could have just pulled the old ones out and shoved the new ones in and been done with it. No hosing from hosers involved.

I still like your hose clamp/duct tape/chewing gum workaround the best. Duck it or f*ck it! Repair those weeping hoses in situ! That's the smartest way to go!

Do as your conscience ultimately dictates, just please please PLEASE inform us when your repair fails and you lose your engine. We won't laugh- we will mourn the loss of another fine automobile at the hands of another inexcuseably arrogant and misinformed owner who thinks he's more clever than the engineers who designed it.

been real and been fun but ain't been real fun

really do wish you good luck

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

Crimping is better, no doubt. If my SD was a keeper I would have just replaced the lines, and the oil cooler since it stripped; like I did in the SDL. But my SD was not so I did it as quickly and cheaply as possible.

From a practical stand point if you use good hydrolic line, and good hose clamps it should hold. The ends of the fittings have barbs and a lip, I pushed the hose over the lip and put a clamp on the other side of that, I also put a clamp on the barb. I'd double clamp, all 4 connections so you need 8 clamps. You always double clamp critical connections. On boats sometimes if its real critical like exhuast and you have the room you use 3-4 clamps.

Most clamped hose connections fail at the clamp, thats why you use two and keep an eye out for leaks.

BTW I don't know why you 617 guys complain about the cost of oil cooler lines. I paid $350 for mine, now they are damn near $400 for the SDL's. Yeah cry me a river I feel for ya.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Look guys, especially funola, I'm not trying to be insulting, but the reason the original hoses are such high quality is because occasionally it has been true that there are times when the Mercedes Benz diesels as well as most german cars, Including VW, have had the oil pressure soar to 300 psi intermittently. I was still an engineer for Chrysler when we were using VW blocks on the front wheel drive models and this was a common occurence! I realise that it looks like a hassle to put a new hose in, but it's not as hard as it looks, OK? It's worth doing right! Under the hood in the engine compartment is no place to be experimenting with something as critical as engine lubrication! Considering that the original parts last 20 years or more, what else can I say? The whole idea behind crimping them with metal at both ends is to not create a weak point that the band clamp idea does. Band clamps may work OK where you have a fitting such as a brass or steel barb, but these hoses are lacking this and at highway speeds you will pump ALL of your oil out in less than 100 feet at 50 MPH! This is slightly longer than the average persons reaction time in a critical situation such as high speed accident instinctive reaction time! Not to mention if this part comes loose and you cause an accident dumping your engine oil on the highway and the police investigation leads to the conclusion that the homemade part caused the crash damage, you could and should be sued! If I was behind you and this jury rigged hose popped and I lost control of my vehicle while it was sliding in your oil from your hillbilly fix, you would be hearing from my attorney. 6 quarts of oil sprayed on to the freeway is more than enough to cause a multiple collsion in crowded traffic conditions.

Of course you are entitled to your opinion. I plumbed an oil cooler on my track car in a similar manner, and it's been fine for over 10 years now. I will not further justify my work to you, it stands on it's own merits.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

No problem. As I said; your car, your money.

when changing the oem lines, should u use any type of sealer on the oil cooler threads?

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82' 300SD

Good question.

No. The hose fittings are swage-fit and don't need sealant.

Might want to use a little copper anti-sieze paste on the cooler threads however.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)