Oil cooler hose leak repair - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #61 05-30-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benzforlife

when changing the oem lines, should u use any type of sealer on the oil cooler threads?

Anti seize, thats it.

funola · #62 06-09-2007, 10:58 PM

Well, I decided to take the advice here and ordered new crimped lines and installed them today. What a RFPITA job it was! I will never do it again! WTF did Mercedes trap the lines with the engine mount? I didn't have any problems getting the 4 nuts off the lines but getting the lines out was like an impossible puzzle. I had the engine mount and engine shock disconnected and had the engine jacked up for clearance. I first tried to get the lines out from up top but it didn't go, A/C hose and PS pump was in the way. Then I tried from the bottom and couldn't get them out either. I have never cursed so much in my life! Finally figured I had to remove the engine block cooler line bracket and the ground strap, and then with great difficulty, got the lines out from the bottom. I probably spent 2 hours trying to get the lines out.

Getting the new lines in was much easier because the rubber is pliable, unlike the stiff dried out old hoses. I should have but didn't, cut the old lines (because I wanted to crimp new hoses on them for spares) which would have made removal much easier. Getting the nut started on the new line on the lower oil filter housing fitting was another PITA because of the lack of room for access. I literally spent 1 hour getting that F***ing nut started.

After both lines are in, engine started, and there were no leaks but the fun is not over yet. I could not get the f***ing allen head engine mount bolt in because I could not get the f***ing holes lined up. I tried prying, jacking the engine up and down. It was close but not good enough. I just needed it to move another 1/16 inch but it was stubborn. Probably spent 2 hours trying but no cigar. What I need is someone to pry with a wrecking bar from up top while I put the bolt in.

I did the job on ramps on the ground. My advice is pay somebody with a lift if you need oil cooler lines replaced. It was not fun. Again, WTF did Mercedes trap the lines with the engine mount? If I had known it was such a PITA job, I would have gotten 2 crimp fittings for the oil filter housing side, cut the f***ing OEM steel lines with a Dremel (so they can be removed and thrown in the garbage) without having to f*** with the engine mount, crimp on new hoses from end to end and be done with it.

Hatterasguy · #63 06-09-2007, 11:17 PM

Yeah its a horrible job on the 617.

thatguy · #64 06-10-2007, 12:00 AM

Except for MAYBE strut rods (and maybe is a stretch), it is the worst job on a 617 engine as far as pain in the ass and cursing are concernced.

#65 06-10-2007, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

My advice is pay somebody with a lift if you need oil cooler lines replaced.

That was my method.

funola · #66 06-10-2007, 11:19 AM

Now you tell me!!! I thought it was a PITA just by looking at it before I started. I was misled by a couple of posters in this thread. One said "just undo the engine mount and jack the engine up" and the other said " did it in 2 hours" or something like that. Neither one provided the gory details. Pretty sadistic if you ask me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by thatguy

Except for MAYBE strut rods (and maybe is a stretch), it is the worst job on a 617 engine as far as pain in the ass and cursing are concernced.

1985 300SD Sady · #67 06-11-2007, 01:51 PM

It wasn't that bad.

Brian Carlton · #68 06-11-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thatguy

Except for MAYBE strut rods (and maybe is a stretch), it is the worst job on a 617 engine as far as pain in the ass and cursing are concernced.

Yep, it was miserable. I had the benefit of the larger SD.........but........I did NOT remove the motor mount and lift the engine.

If you think it was difficult with the engine lifted up..........try snaking that upper hose through the tiny space between the engine and the mount.........without damaging the flare on the end............

KAdams4458 · #69 06-11-2007, 05:57 PM

You know, I just did half of an oil cooler hose replacement on my 300D, and I was all worried about how hard it would be. I have to install the fresh lines still, but getting the old ones out was not complex or time consuming at all, and I did the entire job from above the motor with the car on the ground. Here's how:

1) Disconnected both lines from the oil filter housing with drain pan beneath them.

2) Disconnected the clamp securing the lines to the motor mount.

3) Disconnected both lines at the oil cooler and let them hang with a shop towel wrapped around the end of each.

4) Removed oil cooler since I wanted to straighten a few bent fins on it, then had a bright idea for step 5.

5) Snaked both lines out of the engine compartment straight through the space usually occupied by the oil cooler. That's right, they both came out through the front of the car.

The entire process of removing the lines took fifteen minutes, and I must have spent five minutes fighting with the rusted bolt on the lower oil cooler clamp. Installing the fresh lines won't take long with the oil cooler removed. All in all, I was pleased with how simple this approach was.

If it makes any of you feel better, later in the day it took me half an hour just to get the freakin' headrest to slide out of the front seat I picked up for parts. It just refused to slide out with the release button depressed. I fought and fought with it until I finally gave up and sprayed a little PB Blaster in the mechanism. It slid right out after that, but now the seat smells a little fume-ish.

funola · #70 06-12-2007, 10:56 AM

Did you get the oil cooler lines out from the top or the bottom or the front (oil cooler removed)? Did you have to remove anything else that are in the way such as brackets, a/c hoses etc?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Yep, it was miserable. I had the benefit of the larger SD.........but........I did NOT remove the motor mount and lift the engine.

If you think it was difficult with the engine lifted up..........try snaking that upper hose through the tiny space between the engine and the mount.........without damaging the flare on the end............

funola · #71 06-12-2007, 11:07 AM

You did this on the 77 300D in your sig? I am going to venture a guess that a 77 is different in layout than the 82-85 300D turbo with a/c. If they are identical, than you are a magician and I am a klutz- my hats off to you. I consider myself a pretty good wrench (which don't mean jack ***) and I hope it is not the latter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KAdams4458

You know, I just did half of an oil cooler hose replacement on my 300D, and I was all worried about how hard it would be. I have to install the fresh lines still, but getting the old ones out was not complex or time consuming at all, and I did the entire job from above the motor with the car on the ground. Here's how:

1) Disconnected both lines from the oil filter housing with drain pan beneath them.

2) Disconnected the clamp securing the lines to the motor mount.

3) Disconnected both lines at the oil cooler and let them hang with a shop towel wrapped around the end of each.

4) Removed oil cooler since I wanted to straighten a few bent fins on it, then had a bright idea for step 5.

5) Snaked both lines out of the engine compartment straight through the space usually occupied by the oil cooler. That's right, they both came out through the front of the car.

The entire process of removing the lines took fifteen minutes, and I must have spent five minutes fighting with the rusted bolt on the lower oil cooler clamp. Installing the fresh lines won't take long with the oil cooler removed. All in all, I was pleased with how simple this approach was.

If it makes any of you feel better, later in the day it took me half an hour just to get the freakin' headrest to slide out of the front seat I picked up for parts. It just refused to slide out with the release button depressed. I fought and fought with it until I finally gave up and sprayed a little PB Blaster in the mechanism. It slid right out after that, but now the seat smells a little fume-ish.

d.delano · #72 06-12-2007, 11:13 AM

For me, the job went without a hitch. Car on ramps, remover air cleaner housing, remove large engine mount bolts, remove upper fan shroud clips, jack engine up with wood 4x4 across oil pan until fan hits inside top of shroud. May want to disconnect accel linkage rod as well. Get under there and remove outer engine mount bolts and remove mounts. Remove oil cooler brackets as well. Remove oil cooler hoses. Reinstallation is reverse of removal. I did this in under two hours, and didn't have to fight with the hoses upon reinstallation. It was one of the easiest jobs I have done on this car. Only I may have stripped one outer engine mount bolt, that's OK it's a new mount and it's tight so I don't care. Easy enough to get to if I ever have to remove it.

removing the turbo and manifolds and changing out the turbo seals now THAT qualifies as a miserable undertaking

funola · #73 06-12-2007, 11:39 AM

Well, with the new lines in, I still had a very minor weep at the upper oil cooler fitting. I tightened it a few times but it kept leaking. Finally I took the fitting off and cleaned it and re-installed and it is now totally dry.

Like I said earlier, I will never do this job again without a lift. If I were to do it again I would do it differently. I will NOT use the OEM lines with the ridiculously long bent serpentine metal sections which makes removal difficult and miserable. The old lines that came off leaked because the crimp/hose failed. The hose dried and shrunk, and ecause the crimp is not constant tension (none are), leaks developed. I can easily twist the metal barb in relation to the rubber hose.

I would make the new lines entirely out of rubber from fitting to fitting. No more steel lines! To get the old lines out I would cut the metal section in place with a Dremel to make removal a snap without having to jack the engine up or remove items that are in the way

I got the fittings off the old hoses with a propane torch. Just heated up the crimp ferule till the rubber melts and just yanked and it popped right off and the ferule just slides out. If you are going to do this be sure to do it outdoors and wear goggles and hold your breath. The rubber and oil will likely busrst in flame so beware (the oil could also shoot out from pressure between the hose and crimp). DO NOT do this with the lines in the car unless you want to chance burning it to the ground!!

Here's a pic of the disassembled oil cooler side fittings:

left to right: bubble flare fittings, crimp ferules, hose stubs

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c397/funola/Photo_061107_001.jpg

The hose is probably metric but a 5/8 i.d hose seems to fit ok, maybe a bit on the loose side. Best to get the right size hose. The barb on the fitting is 1-1/8" long with 2 raised ridges for hose retention.

retmil46 · #74 06-12-2007, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

BTW I don't know why you 617 guys complain about the cost of oil cooler lines. I paid $350 for mine, now they are damn near $400 for the SDL's. Yeah cry me a river I feel for ya.

Tell me about it. Same for my '87 300DT. $400 for the lines, $280 for the cooler. And the leak I presently have is on the cooler, so I'd have to end up popping for both. And with a layoff pending, spending $700 in one shot on a second car just doesn't strike me as financially wise.

Working at a Freightliner plant and having access to heavy duty air to oil engine oil coolers, and heavy duty braided oil cooler lines, both available with #8 and #10 AN fittings, has me considering an alternative.

Remove the present oil cooler and lines from the vehicle. Have the hose portion cut off of the lines, leaving only the metal portion. Have either #8 or #10 AN fittings installed on the ends of the metal lines (either compression fitting or welded on). Install an aftermarket oil cooler with AN fittings, and braided oil cooler hoses with the same fittings between the cooler and metal lines.

d.delano · #75 06-12-2007, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retmil46

Tell me about it. Same for my '87 300DT. $400 for the lines, $280 for the cooler.

well for 617s its maybe $70 apiece for the lines, and $500 for the cooler ~$650