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#1
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Changed front brake pads - no braking now! '83 300D
Hi,
I just changed the front brake pads on my 1983 300D. I looked at the manual at the library and did the job based on some hastily scribbled notes. What I did wrong: Didn't open the fluid reservoir before pushing the pistons back in. Took both pads out before pushing pistons in. Anyway, the job seemed OK and easier than other cars I've owned. This morning on the way to work, the braking action seemed lacking and the pedal a bit mushy. On the way home from work, it was downright unnerving... I had very little stopping action. If i pumped the pedal a lot while stopped, it felt better, but it didn't last. By the next light things were barely there. It almost feels like I'm only braking on the rear brakes and getting nothing from the front. The reservoir looks OK and the fluid level is fine. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any ideas? Should I be thinking about bleeding? Bleeding doesn't make sense, since i didn't introduce any air to the system, but I'm not an expert either! Thanks for any thoughts and advice! PS - one of my brake pad wear sensors was missing. Then I broke another. Then I had a hard time getting one into its hole. Then i just decided to leave the others flapping in the wind. Any problem? Are these expensive to replace? |
#2
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check your resourvoure first. if front and rear chambers are full. then somehow you must have gotten air in.
also the front pads might be stuck out. did you push the pedal really hard? tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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If the pedal was pushed all the way to floor after the brake job the master cylinder may need replacement. The bores on these old MCs rust after a number of years, and the rust can destroy the seals on the piston when the piston is swept over an area of the MC it doesn't normally see.
Check the fluid levels first, paying special attention to the area of the reservoir for the rear brakes. Then bleed. But I suspect you need a new MC, given that the more you drive it the worse it is getting. Air in the system wouldn't give that result. On old cars only push the brake pedal through its normal travel, not to the floor, when bleeding brakes or reseating pads after a brake job. - JimY |
#4
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did you rember to pump the brakes after you put the pads in. I did my brake job on my 85 in 45 minutes(not bad for a first time) and just popped out the old put in the new with anti squeel paste, pumped the pedal and I was off for the test. no issues to date
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#5
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Quote:
I trashed the m/c on the '86 SDL because of too much full stroke bleeding. |
#6
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Short of a block of wood or something, I've always placed my left foot under the pedal while pumping with my right on any car that I've ever bled the brakes on. NEVER pump the pedal to the floor when bleeding the system.
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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126.. - Do I miss being a service advisor ??? |
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