started my 1st day with changing one bad injector, changing the glow plugs, changing the WVO filter and flushing and priming the fuel system.

2nd day try to follow mercedessouces ludicrous idea of removing the fan and fan shroud to make it easier to crank over the engine while working on the valvetrain. Well, thats crap especially if you have people helping. 3 hrs later back to square one. anyways, remove valve cover intake system, drain cooling system

3rd daychange remove timing chaintensioner and replace chain and hope new chain stays on with my mickey mouse method of "mushrooming" the pin (by the way, no one really has a real 100% reliable way doing this without the press). With nothing dropped in the chain area we are ok so far. Remove rocker arms and remove valve springs and replace valve stems and gap valves. Reassemble everything.

Now I turn on the engine and it is like a new car (after WVO is warmed up).

I was so happy that I cryed, then I look under the car and oil is comming down like it was going of style. Then I really cry.

Theory: Front engine seal? Or for some reason a small leak from the timing belt tentioner replacment error.
What could it be?

Turbo lines look good, oil cooler lines are new and look good, valve cover seal new and looks good. Anything else?

Check your chain tensioner, it works on oil pressure.

I did a quick feel around and it does not have any fresh oil. I mean this thing leaked 3 quarts in about 2 minutes!

I could remove the intake system and etc and take a good visual, but even if the tensioner housing was loos a little bit, is there enough pressure to totally blow out of there like that? Well I guess I hope so, because I SOOOO dont' want to change the front seal

It won't leak like that from seal, I don't think. You may have to top off and, with help, try to locate leak. Cranking engine via hand held bump starter is worth it's price.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

ok I'll check the tensioner and see if it's there VISUALLY. If not I'll top off and run the engine to shere where it is.

I just say the seal because that seems where most of the oil is concentrated from, I assum with your idea of topping off and running the motor I'll find it easier. Since there is an obvious oil pressure drop, is that going to damage the engine?

Not if you keep it at idle.

Ok So you guys both say:

Do a visual on the tensioner housing for the leak.

Now if that isn't the problem, top off and run the motor at idle and identify the leak (maybe).

And most likely its NOT the front seal

I had a leak on my front seal, did run out while running, no where near what you describe. After stopping, I noticed a puddle of oil on ground. When I inspected while idling, I was able to see from where the oil was coming from. Have never dealt with a tensioner, can't help there. Would seem to be something you may have inadvertently loosen up, or not tightening down.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Gunk the engine clean it up nice, then start the car. With an oil leak that bad how can you miss it!!

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I'll gunk it before you run it. that sounds like a plan!

If it didn't leak before it probably is leaking from something you touched. Did you use a new gasket on the timing chain tensioner? I replaced mine and it had the worst leak in the world. Oil was everywhere. Torn gasket was the culprit.

Scott

__________________
Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

Did you replace the chain tensioner? I know on the 603 they changed it, they went to a larger lip. They also changed the crush washer, if you use the wrong one it will leak like crazy.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

ok so "leak like crazy" is what you guys mention and it is what it is. Here is the deal with the whole tensioner; It is an exact replica of the old one as far as the housing. The old gasket I could not pry off so I left it on and used a new one with some sealant. I mean the old one was just on there and was not comming of easy at all. I just tested around the edges and so the main surface area of the old one was not comprimised.

But I have yet to do a visual on the whole deal today. So updates will continue.

BTW how did you end up crimping the rivet?

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

My guess is that this is where your leak is from...reusing an old gasket is bad, but putting a new one over it can't be good...that's a pretty high pressure seal and the gasket is made to seal against metal, flat metal surfaces not old gasket surfaces...I'd bet you a beer and a shot that's where your problem lies. You need to remove it, scrape the old one off and use a brand new gasket again. I wouldn't use any sealant either.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz