what should i do with the PITMAN? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

blankenship · #1 05-30-2007, 07:22 PM

i've finally decided to go ahead and replace my steering box on my W123, and i'm wondering what to do about the pitman arm.
the box i'm swapping with still has the pitman arm attached, and i've heard it's easiest to just go ahead and swap them both. i'm TOTALLY NEW at this suspension stuff.

WONDERING:
1. how do i get the pitman arm separated from the joints it's connected to, and what are they called? (it's connected to the tie rod on the driver's side, and the drag link on the passenger side, right?). do i need a joint puller, and if so, which one?
2. or, should i just go ahead and mangle the bushings there with a screwdriver or pry bar, and count on replacing them? (photos attached for reference. one from driver's side wheel well, and one from center of car, just below oil pan.)
3. if i AM going to need new parts, bushings, WHAT are they going to be? tie rod ends? control arm bushings? what the heck are these things called?!!!

would really appreciate some help.

PatricdeBoer · #2 05-30-2007, 07:43 PM

You can buy a pitman arm puller from harbor frieght for 8 bucks. It works pretty good on tie rods too.

blankenship · #3 05-30-2007, 09:35 PM

okie doke.
what about the rest?
do those bushings look shot? what's their name so i can find replacements?

toomany MBZ · #4 05-30-2007, 10:11 PM

Track rod, really tie rod, drag link. Ask Phil at above, or check these folks http://***************

KAdams4458 · #5 05-30-2007, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Track rod, really tie rod, drag link. Ask Phil at above, or check these folks http://***************

I'll second the recommendation for ***************. I ordered my steering components through them. A very pleasant experience, and extremely good prices for the steering damper, tie rods, etc. Ground shipping is free on orders over $50.

(I know, I know... This very site has parts as well. I'll be more than happy to buy some of my other bits and pieces from FastLane in the future, since the selection of parts is different and some prices are better. All in due time. )

blankenship · #6 05-31-2007, 11:07 AM

so, then:

i get a pitman puller, and pull and replace the drag bar and both tie rods? and i order those parts new and complete? (not just replacement bushings?)
how do you get the suckers to join back together?

is there anything i should know about completing the job? good links or threads or advice or anything particularly difficult? i'm thinking i should just go ahead and get a new steering coupler while doing the box...anything else that's easy to investigate or renew while tackling this stuff?

PatricdeBoer · #7 05-31-2007, 12:25 PM

The bolt shaft on the tie rods have a slight taper, when you tighten the nut it squeezes them into the hole really tight, thats why it takes a lot of force to get them off. When you put the new ones on, try to get them to the same length as the old ones, you'll need to get an allignment right away too.

blankenship · #8 06-01-2007, 08:45 PM

well, i went to the gettin' place, and got a steering coupler, steering damper, center link, and a couple tie rods. i'm supposed to be meeting up with someone this weekend for the 'new' gear box, and with any luck, i'll have her on this weekend.

i took all the old parts off the car, except i'm not having any luck with the passenger side tie rod....the pitman puller i got is too big for that joint, and even though i've beaten the crud outta that thing w/ a pickle fork and mini-sledge, and it's just not happening. i'm spraying it every few hours with penetrant, and will try again after all the new parts are installed and securing it's position.

right now, my main concerns are about reassembly of the rods and joints...you don't grease them, do you? you just assemble them clean? anybody know the torque i should put on the tie rod and center link nuts?

toomany MBZ · #9 06-02-2007, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blankenship

i took all the old parts off the car, except i'm not having any luck with the passenger side tie rod....the pitman puller i got is too big for that joint, and even though i've beaten the crud outta that thing w/ a pickle fork and mini-sledge, and it's just not happening. i'm spraying it every few hours with penetrant, and will try again after all the new parts are installed and securing it's position. I eventually took mine to a shop, where he beat the living $h!t out of it, came off.

right now, my main concerns are about reassembly of the rods and joints...you don't grease them, do you? No. you just assemble them clean? Yes. anybody know the torque i should put on the tie rod and center link nuts?

Track rod and drag link bolt 26ft. lbs. Track rod clamp bolt 15ft.lbs. Steering gear bolts 51-59ft.lbs. Pitman arm nut, 22mm 103-132ft.lbs., 24mm 118-147ft.lbs. Steering arm nut 59ft.lbs. Steering damper bolt,33ft.lbs. Steering shaft coupling bolt, 18ft.lbs. This is from the Haynes manual. The new parts have the ball joints in place, which is why you buy assemblies. When you tighten down, you may need to insert a spacer, 6mm, this will "seat" the ball joint, I use an open end wrench, torque down, loosen remove spacer, torque down again.

blankenship · #10 06-23-2007, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

The new parts have the ball joints in place, which is why you buy assemblies. When you tighten down, you may need to insert a spacer, 6mm, this will "seat" the ball joint, I use an open end wrench, torque down, loosen remove spacer, torque down again.

QUESTION: I don't get it. I bought tie rod assemblies, and installed them today, but I'm wondering now if I did it wrong. I just unscrewed the ends until they were the same length as my old ones, and just swapped them and tightened down on the locknuts until they were good and tight. I'm not sure if they "seated" or not...I didn't use a spacer, and I also DIDN'T TOUCH the little allen-head bolts that are sticking out of the bolt shafts I was tightening down. Should I have done something differently? What should I do now?

toomany MBZ · #11 06-23-2007, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blankenship

QUESTION: I don't get it. I bought tie rod assemblies, and installed them today, but I'm wondering now if I did it wrong. I just unscrewed the ends until they were the same length as my old ones, and just swapped them and tightened down on the locknuts until they were good and tight. I'm not sure if they "seated" or not...I didn't use a spacer, and I also DIDN'T TOUCH the little allen-head bolts that are sticking out of the bolt shafts I was tightening down. Should I have done something differently? What should I do now?

Sounds like you're good. You got the new TR similar length as old, will still need alignment. Don't need spacer deal unless you spin ball joint before reaching torque spec. I did not touch allen, used only the nut, has a plastic inner "thing" as a lock. Am looking at a new tie rod I got for the SD. Track rod, tie rod same thing. Nut 26 ft. lbs. Adjusting clamp, 15 ft. lbs.

blankenship · #12 06-26-2007, 01:39 PM

well, sheesh.

i finished the steering box install, using one that was supplied by a mercedes salvage guy who told me the replacement was removed from a '77 300d with 60k on the clock.

problem is, now that i've finished the ordeal of getting her in there, i tested the steering play, and THERE'S 4.25 INCHES OF PLAY IN MY STEERING WHEEL! i tried to adjust it out just now, 1/4" at a time on the adjuster bolt, and I wound up doing 1 3/4 turns, which got the play down to 2.25" before the adjuster was MAXXED OUT!

specs say the limit is supposed to only be 1", so I'm pretty frustrated. i'm pretty sure it's the gearbox's fault and not the rest of the front suspension, as i'm measuring the play by just slowly rocking the wheel from side-to-side with the car dead, and stopping at the sign of any resistance. i think i can actually hear the gears 'click' when they finally catch...

what do you think? i should drive to the salvage shop, show him what's going on, and ask that he give me another? problem is, the shop's 10-12 miles away, and i'm sure my front end's TOTALLY out of alignment. i wonder if it's smart to drive out there like that, as maybe i'll trash my new tires...

toomany MBZ · #13 06-26-2007, 02:58 PM

Not familiar with steering box issues, but if you can talk someone into a ride out where you bought, do so. Recirculating ball, no clicks. If you HAVE to drive that car, be careful, drive as slow as possible, listen for tire squealing (for mercy!). Shouldn't do that much damage. Keep in mind you'll need pretty good tires for shop to align.

barry123400 · #14 06-26-2007, 03:32 PM

Some used parts suppliers are something else. We have a local guy who actually sells people bad engines on a regular basis. Has for years. Perhaps the 77 had rolled past a million miles and was just up to 60k. Or he forgot to mention the second zero. He should have noticed the heavy amount of play before he pulled the steering box. Best of luck when you see him.