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  #16  
Old 06-03-2007, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
#4 and #5 are missing their balls I should have looked when I pulled #3 today. Are the balls that crucial?
Yep......you gotta have balls.........

Time for a set of prechambers.........not uncommon at 200K.

I replaced the prechambers on the SD when the head was off........all the shafts were loose in the outside housing.

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  #17  
Old 06-03-2007, 06:47 PM
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Where do the bawlz go?
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  #18  
Old 06-03-2007, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Ara T. View Post
Where do the bawlz go?
.......on the chin..........

Seriously, the balls are part of the shaft that runs across the prechamber and terminates in the outer wall. The wall is quite thin and, eventually, the shaft becomes detached from the wall.
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  #19  
Old 06-03-2007, 08:51 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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All of my balls were nubs... and severly etched looking ones at that. Looks like its time to save up and get the PC's and make a tool with the shimano crack socket thingy....
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  #20  
Old 06-03-2007, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
All of my balls were nubs... and severly etched looking ones at that. Looks like its time to save up and get the PC's and make a tool with the shimano crack socket thingy....
How many miles on that baby?
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  #21  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:02 PM
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Getting that back IP bolt is one of those things where patience is a virtue.

All I remove is the rack damper bolt and the injector lines. I'm just barely able to get the wrench in there and get maybe a 1/8 turn on it. It takes a while but really you don't need to loosen it that much. Also remember you have to tighten it up again.
A ratchet wrench would probably be best but I don't have one that size.

I also found to be extremely helpful is to get a little height on it. Like stand on the toolbox or something. A simple trick that makes it a lot easier

Danny
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  #22  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
How many miles on that baby?
330 give or take.
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  #23  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
Getting that back IP bolt is one of those things where patience is a virtue.

All I remove is the rack damper bolt and the injector lines. I'm just barely able to get the wrench in there and get maybe a 1/8 turn on it. It takes a while but really you don't need to loosen it that much. Also remember you have to tighten it up again.
A ratchet wrench would probably be best but I don't have one that size.

I also found to be extremely helpful is to get a little height on it. Like stand on the toolbox or something. A simple trick that makes it a lot easier

Danny
Honestly that back bolt was pretty easy for me once I got the VCV lever and coolant hose out of the way. I did lay across the engine (and I'm 6'3") and used a long 13mm. I found that I could start above the upper oil cooler line and get about a 1/4 turn on it or so. Not nearly has hard as the bolt covered by tha rack sensor...
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
330 give or take.
Yep........as I figured.

You really ought to consider yanking that head and sending it to Metric for valves, guides, and prechambers. It will return and perform like new. You'll be glad you did.
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  #25  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yep........as I figured.

You really ought to consider yanking that head and sending it to Metric for valves, guides, and prechambers. It will return and perform like new. You'll be glad you did.
Hard time justifying the $$$ at this time. Thats what about a grand in work plus shipping and no car for how long? Got a URL? I suppose I can atleast mull it over....
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  #26  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Hard time justifying the $$$ at this time. Thats what about a grand in work plus shipping and no car for how long? Got a URL? I suppose I can atleast mull it over....
Depends on how long you plan to keep it. At that mileage........it needs the work.

http://www.mercedesengines.net/
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  #27  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:26 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Depends on how long you plan to keep it. At that mileage........it needs the work.

http://www.mercedesengines.net/
Ya I found the URL. I think I will hit up EngAtWork and see if he knows of a decent local. I bought this car as a keeper. I just can't justify that kind of money right now. One thing at a time. Injectors, PC, maybe then valve job. Paid $550 for the '85, time to relabel it the "money pit". The only reason I went for it is the body is in good shape. 2 small dings and in need of paint and eng work. Sigh.
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  #28  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Ya I found the URL. I think I will hit up EngAtWork and see if he knows of a decent local. I bought this car as a keeper. I just can't justify that kind of money right now. One thing at a time. Injectors, PC, maybe then valve job. Paid $550 for the '85, time to relabel it the "money pit". The only reason I went for it is the body is in good shape. 2 small dings and in need of paint and eng work. Sigh.
He has a shop that is less costly than Metric. How good they are...........???

Yep, well, at your numbers, any head rework is going to be painful.

The SD has nearly $5K of parts and repairs over five years. And, I continue to put money in it. Today was "rebuild the driver's seat" day. I'm about 1/2 way done with that task. Another $150.
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  #29  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:33 PM
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Atleast down here cars don't rust as fast
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  #30  
Old 06-03-2007, 10:34 PM
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Atleast down here cars don't rust as fast
They don't rust here either.........provided they live in a garage and salt is avoided to the greatest degree possible.

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