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  #46  
Old 06-16-2007, 01:46 AM
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update

Well the new radiator came today so I installed it. Put new Zerex in, started in up in the garage and in about 15 minutes it was up to 110C-@#$#! I felt the upper hose, it was hot but I could still grab and hold on to it, as well as squeeze it-felt like no water in it at all.
I then decided I must have a flow issue inside so I pulled the T-Stat housing and the upper radiator hose.
I took a garden hose and placed in the upper hole that top hose was attached to and watched as all the water came out the hole on the bottm where the T-Stat was. I know this is probably not the best thing to do but I am pulling my hair out at this point.
I then put the T-Stat housing back on without the T-Stat. Filled with water took it for a drive. It stayed at 80C for awhile, heater was working good, stepped on it a couple of times and it went up to 90C. I let it idle in the driveway when I got home to see if it was climb any higher but it did not. I know what your thinking the new T-Stat is bad right? well I boiled both the new and old one and they both work great! so WTF?

To review: 1. Noticed car was gettin hot around 100C and change
2. Found bad electric fan-replaced
3. Still heating up hot!
4. decided to get new T-Stat and water pump, and flush fluid.
5. still getting really hot!
6. purchased new Radiator when lower hose was cold,thought radiator was plugged. Still getting really hot!

I have not changed the fan clutch yet I am wondering what temp is the fan suppose to be engaging? When this problem first started I checked the fan clutch by watching it stop immediately when I would turn off the engine when it was hot-when cold would spin for alittle while. Tonight the fan would keep spinning when I shut it down with the car hot-great!
will a 1998 E300 fan clutch fit on a 1996? its a cheaper part for some reason

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Last edited by dauber; 06-16-2007 at 02:33 AM.
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  #47  
Old 06-16-2007, 10:10 AM
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Go visit the repair shop that replaced the head gasket and have a discussion with them...perhaps getting your collective thoughts around what was the reason for their replacing the head gasket and all that you have done to attempt to solve the problem may help root out the cause? Could the head gasket be installed incorrectly? used the wrong one?
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  #48  
Old 06-16-2007, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dauber View Post
Well the new radiator came today so I installed it. Put new Zerex in, started in up in the garage and in about 15 minutes it was up to 110C-@#$#! I felt the upper hose, it was hot but I could still grab and hold on to it, as well as squeeze it-felt like no water in it at all.
There was no water in the upper hose........nor was there water in the upper part of the head........because the thermostat is closed and it won't allow water to get there.

So, when you refill the system, you must remove the upper hose.......at the radiator........and completely fill the upper hose with coolant. The upper hose leads directly to the head and you'll completely fill the head when you fill the upper hose. Quickly install the hose to the radiator without losing coolant.
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  #49  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
There was no water in the upper hose........nor was there water in the upper part of the head........because the thermostat is closed and it won't allow water to get there.

So, when you refill the system, you must remove the upper hose.......at the radiator........and completely fill the upper hose with coolant. The upper hose leads directly to the head and you'll completely fill the head when you fill the upper hose. Quickly install the hose to the radiator without losing coolant.
The OM606 has a fill plug right at the entrance to the block. followthe upper radiator hose from the radiator to the block. You'll see a large bolt w/ an 18mm or so head. Unscrew it and fill coolant through there...
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  #50  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
The OM606 has a fill plug right at the entrance to the block.
.........entrance to the head...........????????
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  #51  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
The OM606 has a fill plug right at the entrance to the block. followthe upper radiator hose from the radiator to the block. You'll see a large bolt w/ an 18mm or so head. Unscrew it and fill coolant through there...
He is right. This is where the WIS says to observe the filling of the coolant from but and to fill until coolant come out of it. When I did mine I poured coolant right into that vent hole and never had a single problem with any kind of air in the system.
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  #52  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
.........entrance to the head...........????????
Maybe my terminology is not completely correct, but here are some photos of what I mean. Don't remember if the OM603 has this as well.....
Attached Thumbnails
Fans replaced still running Hot! E300-dsc00025.jpg   Fans replaced still running Hot! E300-dsc00030_1.jpg   Fans replaced still running Hot! E300-dsc00030_2.jpg  
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  #53  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
Maybe my terminology is not completely correct, but here are some photos of what I mean. Don't remember if the OM603 has this as well.....
Yep, that's a fill port for the head. The 603 doesn't have it and it certainly makes life easier. I'd also fill the line from the radiator anyway because it's above the level of the fill port.
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  #54  
Old 06-16-2007, 12:26 PM
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I've not replaced mine, but is it possible to install the t-stat backwards? Yours runs cooler w/o it, is it possible the PO put it in reversed and you are repeating that error?
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  #55  
Old 06-16-2007, 03:37 PM
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I feel your pain

Sorry. Just a thought, when you changed your coolant, waterpump etc did you notice a thick goop coating the plastic/rubber part? I ask only as a bad head gasket that allowed oil into the cooling system might have fouled the whole system and it may be one of the hoses or ports in the cooling system. If they were pristine then forget my train of thought. But if you did see this gunk (oil/coolant frappachino) then you may want to follow the advice given earlier and clean the cooling system with a cleaner and see if you can clear the obstruction.

Good luck and please keep us posted with your findings.

I assume the oil is as clean as diesel oil can be and the coolant is also not contaminated with oil.

Out of curiosity, how common are head gasket failures in diesels? I posted before but never got a response. I know MB is know for bad gaskets on gassers ( I went through one on my 190E -2 in it's 312K mile lifetime).
Not trying to threadjack
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Want to put a tank in the trunk for WVO/SVO in the E300 Need to find a place to store my OIL!
Still procrastinating about the biodiesel/WVO
Made some biodiesel but so afraid to pour it all in - I've added some and think I'll supplement my fuel to see how I make out

Made some biodiesel but the process scares me - methanol fumes are not your friend! Need to do this outside.
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  #56  
Old 06-16-2007, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys I am willing to try anything at this point.

I double checked the t-stat and put it back in today, it only goes in one way and is almost impossible to put in backwards-so that was good. After putting the T stat in and draining out all the water I filled it up with Zerex and filled through the top hose first, then through the expansion tank. I took it out and ran around the block a couple of times, it only got to about 85C. I decided to give it a bigger test so I took it on the freeway for about 8 miles hit 90C and stayed steady until I got back on city streets, was around 105 and rising when I pulled in to the house, nuts! (outside temp 100F)

I did notice some orange-ish looking gunk where the upper radiator hose connects to the head, and some crusted inside the upper hose. Fluid has always looked clean. I was never able to find the citrus flush, went to the dealer and they do not stock it anymore-they told me to just use prestone. I think I need to track that stuff down.

I also was curious about the fan clutch, so I did what I said I would not-I stuck a carrot in the blades when it was around 90C and the fan stopped, did this again when I got home from the test drive when it at 100C and it chopped the carrot up. Do the fan clutches work intermittently when they are going bad or just stop working?
Oh and the oil is clean as it can be
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  #57  
Old 06-16-2007, 09:02 PM
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are you sure that the red colored coolant isn't rusty water?? the citric acid flush sounds good to me olweasel
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  #58  
Old 06-16-2007, 09:40 PM
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Gunk

That gunk might be the result of the previous head gasket failure. When the oil mixes with the coolant under the high temp it makes this nasty thick goo that sticks to everything. Also, people have a tendency to throw everything "easy" at a problem first and it may also be one of those products that claims to repair leaks. I definitely admire your perseverance and high level approach.

I may have missed this and I know you've used one of the laser thermometers to look at temperature but do all the number correlate? The eng. temp on the guage cluster, the coolant temp on the climate control (REST button access) and the hand held laser thermometer? Just a thought that the engine block temp sensor is malfunctioning. It seems to hold temp fine while driving - air blowing through the engine while you're putting it under higher than idle conditions - it's when it idles and there's no air flow even though the fans are running fine that you get an increase in temp.

How high have you let the temp get to see if the car would cool down? Does it stay at 110C? You changed the tstat and if that is faulty it may open late but I can't imagine 2 faulty tstats. Did you bring the old one in to match the new one or did you buy it by car make and model?

Hang in there, I'm sure you're almost there. Does anyone know if you can fill the cooling system on one end and watch for flow at the other end? If there is an obstruction.....I just had a thought. My old 190E had a aux water pump that is not meant to cool the car but to keep the passengers warm in winter, if the W210 has one (I bet it does) could it be broken and blocking flow? Or plugged in backwards on a previous repair trying to push against the main water pump (it is possible).

good luck
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1991 190E 311K [Brilliant Silver/Black MBTEx] -retired
1996 E300 315K [Black/Grey MBTex]

Want to put a tank in the trunk for WVO/SVO in the E300 Need to find a place to store my OIL!
Still procrastinating about the biodiesel/WVO
Made some biodiesel but so afraid to pour it all in - I've added some and think I'll supplement my fuel to see how I make out

Made some biodiesel but the process scares me - methanol fumes are not your friend! Need to do this outside.
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  #59  
Old 06-16-2007, 10:17 PM
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I think it's getting close to the time where you want to pull the head and change the gasket. If it's not the gasket then maybe it's the head. Yes I know they don't fail in your car like they do in the OM603, but .......................
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  #60  
Old 06-16-2007, 11:13 PM
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As a last result I'd yank the T stat and see if it will stay cool without it. On the off chance its messed up.

I hate to say I but its probably the head, the recent head work makes me very suspicous of it. Either the repair wasn't done, and they used some head gasket repair in a bottle, or it was done incorrectly.

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