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#61
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I have all your fears about the head, and then some believe me.
I want to add this- I took it to a store about 2 miles away of stop and go. It climbed to about 90C, on the way home it went up to 100C, at a stop light it started to decend, back to 90C. If it is the head would it not keep climbing? If I let it idol in the driveway it holds for awhile and climbs very slowly now, but keeps climbing. I was looking for citric acid power at the store btw. I am having trouble finding it. The T-stat replacement I used is OEM This was my final thought- buy a new fan clutch, flush out with citric acid and see what happens. After that if it still heats up I guess I will pull the head.
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1999 E300 TD 190,000 1996 Passat TDI 225,000-sold 1996 E300 120,000-sold 1998 Jetta TDI 186,000 -sold 1983 Chev Suburban C20 6.2-sold Last edited by dauber; 06-17-2007 at 12:08 AM. |
#62
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Quote:
Good luck, Chris
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#63
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On my OM617 a few years back, I had exactly the same problem and symptoms as yours. New, T-stat, new water pump, new radiator, new fan clutch and still over heats when driving it hard especially when climbing uphills with or without the AC on.
Turned out to be that I still have air in the system even though I already bleed and burped the air in the system a hundred times, I just can't bleed alll the air out. The lower radiator hose is not hot enough to convince me that the T-stat is opening. So what i did to rule out the T-stat, I disassemble the old T-stat, took the gate valve that restricts the fluid flow and installed it just for troubleshooting purposes. I did it so I can install the rubber gasket between the t-stat housing the lower hose nipple. By doing this process of elimination, I found out that the lower rad hose is now warming up and the temp stayed below 80 deg. C, no matter how hard I drive, uphill, downhill, stop and go with the AC ON full blast. Therefore, with the brand new T-stat, all I need to do is to completely bleed/burp the air out of the system. One thing about my OM617 is that is is so freakin' hard to burp, it took me several attempts with no luck, so my advice is patience, maybe you also have one of those that has just like mine that is on the hard side to bleed and burp. The technique that worked for me to successfully burp the air out of the system is filling the system with the 50/50 zerex through the heater hose between the cylinder head and the firewall, NOT through the upper radiator hose. I am not familiar with your engine, but try filling your system through the heater hose at that is between the firewall and the engine with Rad. cap off untill it overflows on the expansion tank. I you can jack front end of the car up or just park on a slope as long as the front of the car is higher. Just wanted to share this because this worked for me when I was also about to give up. Just be patient pal!
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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version |
#64
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Are you sure that your temperature gage is accurate?
Also, did the overheating exist before your Auxiliary fan broke, or did it only start after the Fan broke?
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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it] Last edited by pberku; 06-17-2007 at 02:32 AM. |
#65
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I'm not grasping why the heater hose at the rear of the engine would offer more benefits than the upper radiator hose. They both lead to the top of the head. Furthermore, why would you want the front end higher when using that procedure? If you are going to fill from the back of the head, you'd want the back of the engine at the highest point........otherwise, you'll trap air at the front of the head. |
#66
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Chris http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=2410P8MVM2410P8ZHK&year=1996&make=MB&model=E-300D-002&category=All&part=Water+Temperature+Sender
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#67
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the Aux fan never did break fully, it was very restricted to the point it was not turing at full speed, you could hear it groaning trying to work. The bearings in the motor were shot so I had to replace it. This was the first problem I found when it was heating up.
As far as the temp sensor, I am trying to locate it. I looks like it is between the #1 and #2 cylinder, really small. It also looks like I will have to take the intake off to get at this
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1999 E300 TD 190,000 1996 Passat TDI 225,000-sold 1996 E300 120,000-sold 1998 Jetta TDI 186,000 -sold 1983 Chev Suburban C20 6.2-sold |
#68
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Quote:
Chris
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#69
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Its probably not the temp sender, I mean you did shoot it with an thermometer before right?
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#70
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I'd also bet it is not the temp sensor or the fan clutch. The thing about the fan clutch is that it will only work when the radiator gets really hot. It gets its "signal" from the air leaving the radiator. It sounds like your engine gets hot so fast the radiator is not even getting close to hot yet. That's why, if you have already eliminated the water pump and thermostat as the culpret I'd be looking at that head gasket job.
You need to do some testing to determine if it is the head/headgasket first then you can decide if it is worth trying to get the shop that just did the job to refund some money toward re-doing it. I'd bring it to the nearest dealer, explain to them all you have done, ask them to perform any test they would ordinarily do to determine if the head or head gasket is bad and report back. You'll probably have to pay for a couple of hours of diagnostic time but that should nail it down. I'm sorry to say, but if it was me I'd be 90%+ sure you are looking at the head being the cause of the overheating even without further testing, but if the dealer confirms it you can at least confront the last shop with that and see what they would do for you...their work should have lasted more than 3000 miles. My only other thought is to call the shop that did the head gasket work and explain to them where you are at...you never know, they might just be good guys and say if you bring the car back to them they will stand behind their work. Though if they were the ones who put the dexcool in it I'm not sure I'd even let them touch it again.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz Last edited by nhdoc; 06-17-2007 at 06:44 PM. |
#71
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As a side note you don't need the fan clutch. I have driven my 603 without it for various reasons and it was fine. Just don't crank the AC or get stuck in traffic. As long as you are moving along the fans don't do anything.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#72
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well I shot the lazer thremo at the radiator and the hoses, the top hose was hot so I guess the sensor is working-it was a reach.
In this part of the county I have to crank the A/C and I will get stuck in traffic so I am going to need the fan clutch. As far as the shop that did the work, it was done for the previous owner. I just pulled the reciept and the work was done at Sheridan Garage & Auto Parts, in Sheridan, CA. I googled it and its a small town about 40 miles north of Sacramento. Dated 11/29/06 with 116,223 on the odometer, it now has 120, some. I doubt they would cover this for a the new owner. The reciept says "water leak-pressure test, leak at rear of engine between cylinder head and block. replace cylinder head gasket and all related parts." $1418 total. The warranty on the bottom says 6 months or 6000 miles on thier work also. I will not dismiss the idea of bringing it into a shop and have a head gasket test done, to know once and for all. If it turns out to be the head, I am going to have to do this myself, I have more time than money right now. To add fruther insult I just went out to open the garage door and the huge coil spring above the door just snapped and the door dropped! I can't even get the car out now anyway-Happy Fathers Day!
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1999 E300 TD 190,000 1996 Passat TDI 225,000-sold 1996 E300 120,000-sold 1998 Jetta TDI 186,000 -sold 1983 Chev Suburban C20 6.2-sold Last edited by dauber; 06-17-2007 at 06:45 PM. |
#73
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Well it is probably worth the price of a phone call. How far are you away from them? 200 miles so I guess I would at least call them.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#74
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While doing a head gasket on one of these is not rocket science there is a procedure that needs to be followed, they probably screwed it up...wouldn't surprise me if they never did a MB diesel head gasket before. The PO probably balked at the cost at the dealer, found some schmo to do it for half the price and figured it would be good enough to unload the car. You might even call the PO and tell her you're facing re-doing the job, and maybe if she has some input with them you would have some leverage. For a job like a head gasket I'd expect any reasonable shop to at least provide some warranty for the first 12 months or 12K miles, but like I said, if they are using Dexcool that is telling you they probably do crappy work.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#75
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Just a couple of points, not all OM606 engines have a fill hole on the engine for the coolant, and also you really should be using MB anti-freeze in your coolant as it will be specifically designed for the materials it encounters in your engine.
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