John Holmes III and E300D-JD, if you noticed I did not bash the car because it died and I did take responsibly for not noticing the oil situation (to answer another question asked here, the oil pressure gauge always showed oil pressure. I looked at both the temp and oil gauges often as the car was new to me and was looking for any problems via the gauges. I saw the gauge reading pressure as I pulled up the drive for the last time.)

I was bashing the car because I expected more before it broken down, as I said. Unimpressive mileage for a diesel, vacuum powered windows, and their design choice over the deere design were the points I was making. I fully take responsibly for the oil situation.

As for gasoline engines, torture test a Chrysler 318 V8, run it out of oil, overheat it, you'd be shocked at what it can take. I've seen this engine abused in just that way many time. They are damn near indestructible.

As for bashing the cars, take a look at the forum. It is littered with "won't start" stories. Those people are not bashing the cars (well some sure have), but after searching this forum it doesn't take one long to realize that mine is not the only car that runs one day and refuses to start the next. If these cars are so reliable why are there SO many "no start" posts on this forum?

KylePavao,

The engine always showed pressure even as I pulled up the drive for the last time. I looked at both the oil gauge and the temp gauge because the car was new to me and I was looking for signs of problems through the gauges (as well as the fact the the gas gauge needles flipping back and forth irratically kept grabbing my attention). The dip stick showed the engine to be dry but the pressure gauge showed pressure so there had to be some in there (perhaps the stick doesn't hit the bottom of the pan).

I don't have to think about it any longer, I am discouraged and would part it if I could. The fact that there are so many other posts like mine doesn't foster in me a great deal of hope. My interior is red so I can't help you there.

Kerry Edward and KylePavao,
Is it sufficient to check for fire through WD40 or Diesel starting fluid as some here have said. I found and tried diesel compatible starting fluid with no ignition.

It would be a mistake to interpret the general reliability of any car from the postings on a forum like this. People tend to post to these forums when they have problems, hence the forums are filled with problems and not glowing reports of daily reliable starts.
I would not use starting fluid to diagnose your engine. If the situation continues once you are sure the injectors are getting fuel and not air, and the glow plugs are operational, I would run a compression test.
By the way, the windows are not vacuum operated.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I think now would be a great time to say how reliable my 76' 300d has been.
Sure there has been a few minor problems over the last three years, but nothing I couldn't repair myself in an afternoon.

I wish I could say the same about my wife's 05' Ford Freestyle and my 91' 300e.

Kerry Edwards is correct in stating that this forum is there to help people with problems. And it is the most informative and helpful forum I have found for any make of car.

Since you thought you saw oil pressure all the time. Be positive the glow plugs are working. Someone mentioned you can still have the dash plug show they are yet no plugs are working under the hood on your model.
Once positive they are working do a compression check. My suspicion was the bores where not getting enough lubrication either by no oil slinging or otherwise. So the rings got hot and lost their temper. I do not think the cooling has to boil out for that to happen. Rings running dry with no or very little lubrication should be enough. They have small overall mass so would react much quicker than anything else.
The compression and rings might still be fine on the otherhand. You just willl not know for certain until it is checked properly.
Kerry makes a valid point as well. I have six older mercedes engines dating back to 1972. They are all reliable enough to go on a very long trip. I could loose an alternator or something but overall I think any one of them would do okay. I fully realise they are not newer cars.

The windows are powered by an electric motor, just like any other car with power windows.

Your car has an oil cooler, right? (Sorry -- have to plead ignorance as mine's a 5 cyl) If so, see if your lines are leaking -- common problem, and can cause a quick loss of oil. Fix that (if necessary), and check for fuel delivery/glow; you might get lucky!

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

In reference to the glowplugs, if the wires attaching to the glow plugs glow in a darken garage is that enough indication that the plugs are working?

As for the fuel, I saw a braided cloth line spurt a little fluid but only under pressure from the hand pump. It the injection pump is the only pump that pulls the fuel from the tank, then the line I am speaking about is on the suction side of the fuel circuit. I wrapped duct tape about it so air could not be sucked in, not because I am too cheap to fix it but because it (the braided line) is somehow climped into a large flared at the end of a metal line and it is not as simple as just putting in a piece of rubber hose. I do not want to cut off the flared end of the metal line either not only because the remaining metal line would be much bigger than the filter nipple, but because if I can get it running I would just as soon replace it with the proper part. Anyways, that is why I was hoping to use an alternate fuel, like diesel starting fluid, to try to get it to kick. I believe it is getting fuel though because at times, when cranking, I get vapor coming out of the oil filler cap (off, of course), which can only be diesel fuel pushing past the compression ring into the crankcase. I am wondering if after several days of cranking there could be enough diesel fuel in the cylinder to wash away the lubrication.

I have the compression gauge on order and my manual should be arriving in the mail today. Once I read up and see illustrations all the components of the fuel system, etc, I should be able to either get it running or determine for sure whether it is dead: It is hard to fix a diesel when you come from a gasoline background and don't know what the components are that you are looking at.

There is a fuel pump between the primary filter and the IP. Have you checked to be sure you are getting fuel and not air at the injectors? I'm not familiar with the fuel line you reference. Where is it in relationship to the primary filter? Fuel comes from the tank to the primary filter, thru the filter, thru the fuel pump to the IP. Fuel returns to the tank via a 'cigar hose' from the secondary filter.
If the wires are glowing, the plugs are most likely working.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I am assuming the primary filter is #205. The previous owner has a filter plugged into #265, which includes the braided line I spoke of. #265 is attached to the injector pump. The element on #265, which appears to be a hose clamp, is not: It is a flare on the steel protion of #265 and the braided portion is crimped into it. It is the braided portion where the fuel spurts from (very slightly) when I pump hard with the manual pump just near it. Where is the fuel pump in relation to #265? Is between #265 and the tank? Under the car? Is it mechanical or electrical?

205 is the secondary filter. The primary filter is before 265. 265 is attached to the fuel pump which is attached to the IP. It is mechanical.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I think that is what it's called.
#265 and the primer pump are screwed directly into it.

__________________
Sonny


86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold-
79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP
2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work

Looking to buy part # 265 in the picture in my post above. Anybody know a non MB dealer source for this or is this a "dealer only "part. Also need the rubber breather elbow on the top of the valve cover (1976 240D).