I purchased a 240D about two weeks ago with 143k. Ran good. Drove it about 300 miles. I parked it one night and the next morning it refused to start. I know little about diesels. The glowplug indicator is working. Car cranks. It was so sudden, I am almost thinking that something let go with the shutoff value in the injector pump when I last shut the car down, because there was no indication of a problem the last time it ran. The owners manual said how to bleed the air from the fuel lines so I thought I would try that. It didn't help, but what I noticed was that a braided fuel line, connected to a small clean inline filter, spurted a little fuel out when I used the hand pump to bleed the system. Is that small hole enough to stop the car from running, especially when I think it only leaks when under the pressure of the hand pump? I was thinking if the injector pump is sucking gas all the way from the tank that even with a small hole in the line the pump would suck air through the braided hose before being able to pull fuel all the way from the tank. With that in mind I try using a piece of duct tape, wrapped tightly around the hose as a temporary aid to stop air from being sucked in, if in fact there is negative pressure at that point in the fuel system: Still no start. I would fix the braided line but it is crimped into/connects to, a metal flange on a metal line and I haven't quite figured out how to connect a new piece of hose to it yet.

*What components are between the injector and the fuel tank to aid in fuel delivery? Is there a pump that pushes the fuel to the injector pump or does the injector pump pull the fuel all the way from the tank by itself?
*Is there a way to test for fuel delivery at the injector? If I disconnect the line at one of the injectors, and crank the engine, should the fuel shoot put or dribble out?
*Is there a starter fluid counter part in the diesel world that I could shoot into the intake, so I could al least confirm that it is a fuel problem?

Thanks

Check your glow plug circuit first. The squiggly wires between the plugs should be getting pretty hot. This car probably still has the older original type series glow plug set up. If one burns out they all are not operational. Also inspect your glow plug circuit fuse carefully. Just follow the wire off the glow plug closest to the firewall to find it.

You mean the glow plug indicator on the dash can get red hot (it does), but that all the glow plugs are not necessarily doing the same? I have also read on other posts that this model has no fuse.

The way this died is weird because it never even had a hard time starting before. It went from easy starting to not even a kick.

I had forgotten that some models had the glow plug indicator as a glow plug. If it is no brighter than usual one could assume the plugs are working if it is in series with the ones out front and I suspect it is but do not know. The common test for injection pump fuel delivery is to loosen the line nut at an injector and see if any fuel comes out while turning the engine over.
Or spray some wd-40 into the intake while cranking the engine over. If engine runs than it is a fuel issue. Remove the air filter first before spraying and look for an obstructive flap in there. Or the external linkage to one. I do not know the year they stopped having an intake manifold flap to control air intake by the engine.
If you have no fuel delivery it should run a little on the wd40. Sure a puimp can tiotally fail instantly in service but usually it is a more gradual process. Check to make sure it"s shutoff device is not remaining on as well. Also cancel one of your threads out or help will become very confusing. Remove or loosen your fuel cap in case the tank is under vacuum from a blocked vent. It could have pulled fuel back overnight. Finally make sure you are not out of fuel. Fuel gauges can lead people astray. Come back on site after you have checked these things. You also could have something simple like a blocked fuel filter but prove things as you go along rather than spending money. You can use that for required things later.

You have a leak in your fuel system. When you parked the car the fuel drained back to the tank leaving air in the fuel lines near the engine. These cars do not self prime the fuel lines when they are empty and do not run well on air.

Open the hood and follow the fuel lines to the engine. There you will see a hand pump, which given the age of the car will probably be the older white type (which are notorious for leaking...this is could be the source of your leak problem). Unscrew it and pump it many times. If it seems to be leaking fuel when you pump it replace it with the newer type. Once you get the fuel system primed with the hand pump the car should start up.

If it is still being stubborn loosen all 4 of the nuts on the hard metal lines where they attach to the injectors on the top of the engine, crank the car with the starter until fuel leaks from each line, then tighten up the nuts.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I filled it the night before it died. I would assume bad fuel but I drove it about 50 miles and it ran great. I did check the oil today and it was bone dry. I am ashamed to admit it but I bought the car without checking it. After filling with oil I noticed as the gauge pressure increased as I cranked, the engine started cranking slower, pointing to increased compression: I was probably not getting proper cylinder lubrication before. What prompted me to check the oil is that with the oil filler cap off I was getting gases coming out of it: Blow-by without even running, so I figured there was no cylinder wall lubrication. After putting oil in I am no longer seeing the gases escape. Also, as far as fuel, it is seeping from one soft lines that runs between injectors so it must be getting fuel. Before that I did try a little WD40 without it firing. I will charge the battery and see what happens. If fuels has pumped into the cylinders for the past three days of me trying to start it I don't know what affect that will have

How many quarts of oil did it take to fill it to operating level? This might be important. Two or three quarts might not be bad. Much more and I would do a compression check if it does not come to life soon.

There was virtually no oil in it. It took 5 quarts. I made the mistake of assuming there was oil, and coolant, and rear end dope, and transmission fluid: My own fault! Still I turned the car off at the filling station and it started right up again before I brought it home that night. If I damaged the engine why did it start at the filling station, but not at my home the next morning. You could say that the damage was done in the miles between the filling station and my homke, but I went out about an hour after getting home to move the car so someone parked in front of me in the driveway could get out. Whatever the case, I don't think I will be doing the Mercedes thing again. The previous owner sent me the service records in the mail, which spans the life of the car. Holy *****, the money the other owners spent on this car. Throughout all of this I can't help but think about the John Deere 4 cylinder diesel bulldozer I own that is the same year as my car and which I can and have started in subfreezing weather, by just flipping the key and without pause, hitting to start button. I realize that if the oil went low enough to damage the engine, it was my fault for not checking it in the week or two I owned it, but I still can't understand why John Deere could produce such a hassle free starting engine and Mercedes couldn't. This thought did not occur to me after it die, but before.

From the station to home you may have developed a large oil leak. It would not run too long with totally no oil before the onset of damage usually. Maybe 10 minutes at medium speeds. On the otherhand you might have just got partial lubrication on the whole trip home.
Set of standard rings on ebay right now. Fifteen to twenty dollars. Small motor to lift out. Wonder if it is worth a try? Cars overall condition otherwise good? Story to tell the grandchildren someday?
Also at the filling station the engine was still hot and that helps restarting a diesel with lower compression a lot.
At present it may be worthwile to put a little oil in each cylinder. Roll it over to blow the excess out. Put the glow plugs or injectors back in and see if it will start. There is a chance the rings have gone soft or have just less tension from overheating though.

Whatever else happened, the engine did not overheat, neither indicated by radiator rumblings, steam escaping, or temp gauge as I remember glancing at the gauge many times (just because the car was new to me). Can I access the cylinders through the glowplugs? How do I remove without breaking wire as other forum user did?.

Rings are reasonable but in the gas engine world it is not as simple as just changing rings: Must remove upper cylinder ridge, hone cylinder, and possibly replace pistons. Not sure if diesels are the same but don't see why that aspect of them would be different. Pull an engine? Done it lots before (gasoline). If I owned it for a years or two no problem, after owning two weeks, the thought makes me want to puke. Still, I would consider pulling the engine out and rebuilding it if it weren't for the collection of receipts I have showing just what a money pit this car (all Mercedes?) has been. Before it died, after looking at the receipts for repairs, it occurred to me that if that type of service was required for all Mercedes, I could not afford to own the car that I bought for fuel economy. I bought the car soully for diesel mileage and was shocked when I found out that the model gets comparable mileage to a gasoline engine car of the same weight and displacement. I can see where there is some excellent construction quality, but frankly the engine operation cannot hold a candle to the Deere diesel of the same vintage. I am not going to deny that I am not happy, but I was struck by a sense that these cars were overrated during the couple of weeks I was driving mine. For example, I am lucky I had my windows rolled up before the car died: Vacuum powered windows!?

General condition of the car is just OK, has had inner fender professionally replaced in the past. Rust on rockers and some on floors. Paint is all one color but very checked and faded (burgundy). Interior is nearly immaculate. It was my impression that this car was very well maintained.

Huh? I've been driving Mercedes diesels since 1985, and have yet to have starting problems in cold weather.

Unless, of course:

1. Bad glow plug(s). Even if the salt shaker gets red, doesn't mean all the glow plugs are working.

2. Plugged fuel filter(s).

3. Starter turning too slow, due to a worn starter and/or weak battery. The proper battery is a must, a regular car battery won't work.

If John Deere diesels are so great, then why did Thermo King use Mercedes diesel engines for it's reefer units?

Dude, you bought a 31 year old car for a thousand dollars, right?

You ran it out of oil, and now it doesn't start, right?

That makes you qualified to bash Mercedes cars, right?

Yeah, right.

I agree... if you had this same situation with an American car (that had actually survived 31 years in routine service...) you'd already have a seized engine and it would be in the junk yard.

The cars ARE reliable with proper maintenance and attention.

I think your jumping to a conclusion about the engine being bad without trying to resolve the fuel problem. Put some fuel in a soda bottle, run a line to the primary filter, put the return line in the soda battle, pump the primer pump and try to start it. All that after confirming the glow plugs are working.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Sorry to say it boss, but if your glow plug light goes on and the wires between them get hot, fuel is flowing...you might be in tough shape.

Running it without oil for that long is testament enough to the reliability of the engine....did you notice the oil pressue drop when you had almost no oil in it?

Try to get the fuel issue solved, then go from there.

Also...if you get fed up with the car, what color is the interior? I need some W115 specific parts for my 300D

Hope it works out for you...Tan map pockets...I need those...does it have cruise?

__________________
http://www.betten.mercedescenter.com...n_banner_1.jpg
1976 300D
190,000 Miles
Colorado Beige

1975 300D
Parts Car
78,000 Miles
Rustbucket
Also Colorado Beige

1984 190D 2.2 (Dad's)
156,000 miles
Champagne Metallic Clearcoat