|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
"new" 300, but which one?
hello all, after trying to get a MB that was located in a backyard for the last 3 years, i finaly got it. Heres the problem, I dont know what it is?, there are referances of 123, 126, oe617 etc, but i dont have a clue as to what those numbers mean?
This is what I do know: 1980 300sd turbo diesel, 4 door sedan. 144,00 miles but it doesn't run very good (that post/question to follow) Any help would be great. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Your car has the OM617 5-cylinder turbodiesel.
It is either a late W116 chassis or early W126...correct me if I'm wrong. Engines: (OM = "Öl [Oil] Motor" = diesel engine) OM616 = 4cyl diesel, 240D OM617 = 5cyl (turbo)diesel, W123 300D and 300CD, W116/126 300SD OM601 = 4cyl diesel, 190D OM602 = 5cyl turbodiesel, 190D and W124 300D 2.5 OM603 = 6cyl turbodiesel, 3.0L: W124 300D and W126 300SDL, 3.5L: W126 350SD/L and W140 300SD "rod benders" OM606 = 6cyl (turbo)diesel, W124 E300 Diesel, W210 E300 Diesel, W210 E300 Turbodiesel All 60x engines had hydraulic valve lifters which require no adjustment. There were Euro-only OM604 and OM605 engines, 4 and 5-cyl, respectively. These two engines and the OM606 were DOHC with four valves per cylinder. All other engines have two valves per cylinder. Chassis: W116 = 70's S-class W126 = S-class 1980-1991 W140 = S-class 1992-1999? W123 = midsize late 70's to 1985 W124 = midsize 1986-1995 W210 = midsize 1996-2002 Hope this helps!
__________________
99 E300 TD -- sold 01 540i 6 spd |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
If you look at the tag in the driver's side door frame it will tell you the chassis series.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
80 should be the last 116 series car, easy way to tell is if it has two square headlights it's a 126, 4 equal size round lights it's a 116 two large and two small round lights, it's a 123, unless it has euro lights, then it gets more complicated.
but the SD is a 116 up to 1980 and from 81 -91 it's a 126 after 91 the 140 came out. I don't follow much above the 140's... John
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
if its rusty its probably a W116.....
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
ok, thanks guys, i will check the plate today before i leave for work for the weekend. It has 4 round headlights, 2 smaller than the others. There is only a small rust spot on the lower drivers corner of the door, no rust anywhere else, so i lucked out for 500 bucks, now to figure out why the engine wont run right.
thanks again |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Getting it running right, Empty fuel tank, clean tank screen, replace with new fuel and new fuel filters, change oil, change airfilter, check glowplugs, check for any fuel leaks. let us know if that fixes it, has for any of my "project vehicles"
__________________
1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard) 1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2 Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped) 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
how hard is cleaning the tank screen? do you have to drop the tank?
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
So , from your description at least, we are talking about a W123, either a 300D or 240D.
You don't have to drop the tank to clean the tank filter, but if you have a severe algae problem, that would be the best way to eliminate all the water in the tank and get rid of the algae that wants to stick to the sides. Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
No, but you will have fuel all over the place, as you're removing the bottom most line, be prepared. The trick is to remove the strainer itself, just over 1 3/4 inch, forget the mm equivalent. No easy to get to. May need special wrench. "While you're there", might want to replace the rubber lines, to and from, if going to run bio, use viton, or however it's spelled. You don't want to do this more than once. If you are going to reuse strainer, simply rinse backward with whatever will work, water hose first, if necessary, go with stronger stuff. There is a rubber gasket, see if you can get a new one, my 2 cents.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
if it is a 80 300SD as he says it is a W116 body i have the same car.
__________________
-Trevor OBK #12 1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled 1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
S/he (wowwy) also said it was a turbo, but I thought the 300 didn't have a turbo until '82.
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
beginning in the 1979 model year. The car being discussed here is an '80 300SD, with four round headlights, so it's a US version W116 auto. They never sold the W116 turbodiesels in Europe, either.
__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ... 1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold) 2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp 1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k 2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold) |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
before going to all the trouble to drain the tank etc., I would simply use some fuel treatment and biocide first. These will purge and burn out all but the very worst water and fungus problems.
they will usually flow out thru the filters too. welcome aboard. benz diesels are the best. Tom W
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
JimB,
Thanks, I was thinking of the W123. That wasn't available in the U.S. as a turbo until '82, right? t walgamuth, You're right, but s/he is likely to go through a lot of prefilters that way. I had this problem when I first got my 300D, but I pumped my nearly full tank out, then drained it. Then I filtered my fuel outside the car through the sewn-up leg off a pair of jeans (I've read that's about 5 microns). I then treated the fuel with Racor biocide and Diesel Kleen (silver bottle) and put it back in the tank, sloshed it around and pumped it back out and filtered it one more time. Even after this, it had a slight greenish tint to it, but I figured the biocide made sure nothing was alive. It was sure a lot better than the black slimy sludge that came out. I finally put it back in the car and started running it. After that, I only had to change my pre-filter once (although it will be changed again soon). Almost a year later, I still haven't changed my main filter.
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
Bookmarks |
|
|