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  #16  
Old 06-11-2007, 02:06 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Yeah, replacing H20 pump won't hurt, if you get the chance, use NEW bolts. I know from personal experience, they're easy to snap when torquing down. As per spease, might want to flush first, I've heard Shout and water is a favorite flush mix. Sounds like you need a new fan bolt too.

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  #17  
Old 06-11-2007, 02:18 PM
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I'm going to be doing the same job this weekend. What bolts do I need, thread type, material, etc etc
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2007, 03:17 PM
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What I would do is once out, measure, as I'm sure they need to be specific. Bound to be an off the shelf bolt. I have a device that can measure these things, I'm sure I still have a bolt or two, yet they are not marked where they came from. I need a secretary! I also have a thread cleaner tool, that clamps around a bolt to clean from head to end, and adjusts to any SAE or metric thread, any pitch you have, only need one. Love it. I picked up both products from here http://griotsgarage.com That's also where I plagiarized my sig from.
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  #19  
Old 06-12-2007, 02:43 AM
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Pump NO... and you might face some real problems doing that job!

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Originally Posted by mistergood View Post
Well, looks like I got more work cut out for me this week... I got under there before reading the manual to grind the wrench down. I used a c wrench and one got a little stripped, but not too badly. Also found that the 3/8 fits much more tightly than the 10mm. I bought a spare 3/8 wrench and I will be grinding this guy down to make it fit. I feel that replacing this pump, although it may not fix my prob completely, can't hurt a thing(that is if all goes well). I have replaced the thermostat prior to this, and I did the hole drilling and all. After doing that... the car stays cooler for a good bit of time, but once out on the highway, it'll still reach the 100+ mark. I have an IR thermometer and it reads the 100C that the dash is reading so I know my gauges are reading correctly(woulda been nice if that were the only prob). There we go. More updates to come.
It helps IF you tell us right off what diagnostic steps and/or other repairs you have tried! IF this were a gasser, your "on the highway" mention might just point a finger at ignition timing... but you are diesel. Have you had the coolant water tested for products of combustion... maybe at speed, a blown head gasket might be leaking over to the cooling system?
What state are you in?
You seemed determined to do a quick swap out of the water pump... but I just did this our our 1980 300D and it was anything but simple. I almost had to replace the expensive pump housing. Luckily I was able to repair it with helicoil[sp?] repairs! Two of the ~6 small 6mm(?) bolts broke off in the aluminum housing due to electrolisys(sp?) weakening the bolt heads.
Regards,

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