Shut off valve replacement W124 602/3 300D 2.5 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pdrayton · #16 06-18-2009, 11:42 PM

Well done Steve.

However, a word of warning. I have been running WVO for over 100k miles, and I know a thing or two about it. Read around and you'll find that Diesel Secret is not what it claims to be.

And, running unheated VWO in your car will shorten it's life. Look at the infopop.cc forums and you'll get plenty of evidence on that.

I was looking at the ceramic treatments too. Which did you use?

Oldwolf · #17 06-25-2009, 09:41 AM

This is a great write up pdrayton. I'm going to have to replace mine soon too since my 602 is a little sluggish shutting off. Is there anyway to do what you did and not remove the cruise control actuator?

Oldwolf · #18 06-25-2009, 09:51 AM

One more question. I see there is a plastic version of the shut off actuator available. Should I avoid it and get the older all metal version?

Thanks again.

pdrayton · #19 06-25-2009, 09:58 AM

I'm not sure about the actuator. I don't remember, but I don't think I removed mine did i?

Also not sure about the plastic SOV, mine was metal. I would think the metal is better.

Before you replace it, check that it is leaking by putting vacuum directly to it. It could be a leak in the system somewhere or your vacuum pump being weak. Check it gives 26" hg when you connect directly to it.

Oldwolf · #20 06-25-2009, 10:26 AM

Thanks. I'm pretty sure my diaphragm leaks.

Here is the thread I started asking about it before I found your thread.

Oldwolf · #21 06-25-2009, 10:34 AM

These are the two shut off actuators available. Why do they call them valves anyway? They are actuators.

pdrayton · #22 06-25-2009, 10:57 AM

I would go for the metal one unless money was a big issue. Plastic will probably work fine, but won't last as long. I'd feel better having a metal one. Don't want to do the job again unless you have to....

Oldwolf · #23 06-26-2009, 10:58 AM

For the record, Google this part number to get information on the shutoff valve that fits our 602's. Just using the part number yield a lot of pertinent hits.

Diesel Shutoff Solenoid
0000704653

RichMason · #24 02-11-2010, 04:56 PM

I have another post where I detailed my screw-up replacing the o-ring on the stop lever. I removed the stop lever and the hollow bolt that goes into the pump around the arm that the stop lever bolts to. After I reassembled everything, the car will not shut off from vacuum though the stop arm works as it should. I assume this means I knocked it loose inside the pump from the vacuum actuator? Can I reconnect it readily by removing the actuator and following the procedures outlined here or is there more to it? Anyone think I can do this with the manifold on?

Many thanks. I have a 1990 W124 OM602.

Rich

compress ignite · #25 02-11-2010, 05:57 PM

You're gonna follow PDrayton's instructions.
AND you're gonna have to GENTLY fish around in the shutoff valve holder for
the IP actuating rod.(And successfully attach it to the shutoff valve's rod.)
A cheap little inspection mirror from the ChiCom's tool store will help.

You have to FINAGLE the SO Valve's rod in at an angle,so the IP's rod fits
into it's opening.

CAUTION !
Usually when the ShutOff Valve installation is incorrect...The Possibility of a
RUNAWAY exists.

When you're Positive the task is completed correctly,apply Vacuum (Mighty Vac)
to the Shut Off and watch the Manual OFF arm depress fully.
[This is your final confirmation of a job well done.]

'Having the Manifold OFF makes the task a breeze...
But ,Patience and fiddly hands overcome adversity.

Oldwolf · #26 02-11-2010, 07:04 PM

Rich,
I did mine w/o removing the manifold. I did have to remove the ALDA though.

I work in Chapel Hill by the way.

Wodnek · #27 05-16-2010, 10:34 AM

Thanks for the excellent instructions. It made changing it on my 87 300TD only kind of a B. About 3 hours.

It was very hard to keep myself from deflowering the virgin ALDA.

jameson · #28 05-29-2010, 01:37 AM

Yes thanks again for the write up, very helpful.

Completed the job tonight, 2hrs trying to get the alda off i soon realized i was turning it the wrong way!

Stupid me, ive taken it off before too! oh well.

Simple after that, just push the stop arm down and the inner'eds come up and you just feed the new stop valve down while letting up on the stop arm. Really easy.

For the past 4 months ive had a lawnmower throttle cable thred through the firewall, connected to the stop leaver. i would have to turn the key and yank the cable ever darn time. If only i knew this was all that was wrong, woulda had it fixed by day 1!

When completed, push down lever and listen to make sure it sounds as it did before you started the job, and apply vac to double check.

Three hour job, Much quicker for people that understand "Righty tighty!" haha

Good luck,
James

bobodaclown · #29 07-14-2010, 08:25 PM

Well I get to join the replacement club. When it went it went quick. About a weeks time from when I first noticed it was taking longer to shut down.
I used a mighty vac to check that when I shut the key off it was getting plenty of vac to operate the SOV. I tried the mighty vac on the SOV and tried to shut it down, pumped and pumped, no joy. Ordered replacement SOV. Got the metal one to replace the metal one.
Looks like the standard lefty-loosey for the connector, ALDA, and bolts.
I'll update when my part comes in and I get it done.

bobodaclown · #30 07-16-2010, 09:11 AM

Crud. It will shut off, but no power. Must of missed the correct spot. Will take apart and try again.

Well got it done. Shuts off and power. When I installed it I missed the correct spot. It would actuate the arm and shut off the engine but wouldn't retract enough for full power.
****NOTE****
The arm should come retract to the 11 O'clock position when the valve is installed correctly. 8 o'clock the engine is off, 11 o'clock is full run. (Mine only came up to about the 9-10 o'clock position and the arm did go down when I applied vac. So though it was good, but wasn't.

Also I removed the ALDA using some PB blaster and a light hammer to initially break loose from the nut on the IP, remove the hose connector (deep 10mm). The nut on the IP also turns. I used channel locks on ALDA once I got it broke loose.

There is a wrench fitting on the bottom of the ALDA. I think its 20mm but it needs to be thin to be able to fit. The channel locks did the job. They were a little messy but got the job done.

I also removed the washer fluid reservoir to have some extra room.