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#31
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Best bet, (been there) is the diaphram in vac pump, kit is about $20 from dealer, I think about 4 bolts to take cover off, carefully remove old, watch how it comes out, put back, probably post here on this, clean as much as possible the vent tube to air cleaner, should fix, have you had any trouble stopping, door locks, brakes hard? Strong indicators.
ron |
#32
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It worked wonderfully for two years that way, so I tend to doubt it's that (but I might be wrong). If I disconnect the lower end of the hose and put it in a plastic bottle, of course the oil is going to get into it... The oil causing all this mess, as I said in my original post, COMES UP THE MANIFOLD INTAKE (the drain tube, to use your wording) - that I know already, since the "tube" on which the air filter is fasted gets covered up with a lot of engine oil from the inside. Again, the oil comes up from the manifold intake, gets through the air filter, then drips down to the floor... In my car, the breather hose from the crankcase connects directly to the manifold intake, way BELOW the air filter housing (and NOT to the air filter housing). How would it be possible, in your opinion, that the oil, once it gets into the manifold intake from the crankcase, then comes up into the air filter housing?? It would be logical for it to circulate again in the engine, right? I was thinking, could this problem be caused by a strong engine blowby, causing the oil to come up from the engine, through the manifold intake, through the air filter? In view of the above, if you still think that I should do that test with the plastic bottle, I will do it. Please let me know... Thanks...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#33
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What I haven't yet grasped and I need to understand is, if it were the vacuum line/vacuum pump causing the problem, how so? Would the vacuum line actually suck engine oil from the manifold intake into the air filter, is that so? If not, how?
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#34
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Yes, I have already removed the fan blade/housing a while ago, so that's no problem to me... The issue here now is to understand if I need to replace that pump diaphgram/valve checks or not...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#35
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As I said earlier, the automatic door locks never worked since I bought the car... the brakes seem to be working fine. What's the best way to clean vent tube to air cleaner (hose from vac pump to air filter)? Thanks...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#36
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If the diaphragm is leaking, it forces crank case oil up through the clear tube directly into the air cleaner.
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Sonny 86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold- 79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP 2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work |
#37
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In my case, the oil seems to be coming up the manifold intake (drain) instead... I say this because the air filter gets uniformly blackened with engine oil (the white of the filtering paper is no longer visible), and there is plenty of oil on the inside/outside of the tube on which the air filter gets fastened... However, my assumption might be wrong... Hopefully, all these descriptions of mine in the posts here will be sufficient to establish if I need to do go ahead and replace the diaphram, or what else...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#38
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you can check other vacuum lines to see if there is oil in them. I'm not sure about 240D, but in my 300D there are some lines that run above the oil filter housing.Trace them up towards the driverside firewall. It's easier to see oil in the yellow lines, they are for the door locks. Pull one of the lines out of a connector. If there's ANY oil in there, the vac pump is bad. This is really easy to do, takes 2 minutes from the time you pop your hood.
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Sonny 86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold- 79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP 2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work Last edited by slarson80; 06-14-2007 at 02:16 AM. |
#39
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Maybe I'm missing something here but, if the diaphragm was leaking oil it would not be making vacuum...does it produce vacuum?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#40
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It looks like the vacuum diaphragm can be ruled out since the tube is clear and oil is coming up the intake manifold and not down thru the filter housing.
One thing I did not understand initially is that your car does not (apparantly) have an oil return line going down to the pan from the air filter housing (mine does) but the fumes/oil from the crankcase vent hose is deposited diectly into the intake manifold. Am I understanding this correctly? If this is the case, then it seems to me that disconnecting the vent hose should stop any oil from going to the intake manifold. I would try this. Put the hose in a milk bottle or something like that so the liquid can accumulate in the bottom and the fumes escape out the top. If there is oil entering your intake manifold from some source other than the vent hose, I would be very surprised. When you stop the car after a drive, I would remove the air filter and look down into the manifold and see what you observe. It is a very very long shot, but I suppose it is possible that the oil return galleries have become blocked and oil is accumulating under the valve cover and getting pushed out the vent hose . This seems far fetched to me, but there does need to be some explanation for the sudden occurence. Why was there an air filter in there that did not fit tight? Changing styles of air filter could have increased vacuum in the intake causing oil to get sucked out the vent hose. Can you describe the differences between air filters some more?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 Last edited by kerry; 06-14-2007 at 10:22 AM. |
#41
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I just did what you suggested and pulled out both yellow lines: there is not a trace of oil in either case...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#42
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Thanks...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#43
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The best way to establish vacuum is to measure vac on the line from the pump to the brake booster and "T's" that come off of that line. Should be around 20-22 'units' of vacuum. An easier way to get some "idea" of vac is if you have functioning power brakes. A loss of vacuum means you have to push extremely hard on the brake pedal to stop the car.
I think driving around with the breather hose in a jug is the best step at this point. Maybe I missed it, but have you verified that your oil is at the correct level?
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#44
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Thank you so much for your thoughtful answer, Kerry.
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The filter that had been there for a year was a FRAM CA3159. I noticed from the very beginning that it fit VERY loose (I mean, with 1/4" of space all around between inside of the filter and the tube it goes on). And yet it is what Kragen lists for my car model. This last March the time came to change the air filter. I got the new one at AutoZone, this time an STP SA3159 (that's all they had for my car). Upon installing it I noticed right away that it fit extremely tightly, very hard to fit in, to the point I thought it was the wrong type of filter. This problem with the oil getting into the air filter housing started around mid-May, approx a couple of months later... with the air filter being completely soaked with engine oil. I right away got a new filter, making it a point to choose a different brand (one that hopefully fit more loose). I installed a Purolator A51708 (that's what PepBoys lists for my car), and was pleasantly surprised that this filter finally fit right... But, unfortunately, it did not take care of the problem, which, by the way, seems to be getting worse. Do you think that putting in the original filter, the FRAM which fit ridiculously loose, might be taking care of the issue? (I definitely know it is not the appropriate size for my air filter housing, even though they list it as the proper one)
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#45
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Sure, the engine oil is at the correct level, right between the high and low marks. I know for sure because I had to add a lot of it (almost daily) during the past couple of weeks, due to all this leaking...
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
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