I need help! Unfortunately dieselgiant.com doesn't have a pictorial for the fuel filter change. ANyone know of a site that shows it for a meredes diesel? (or a video even better).

I have..
1 x new MANN spin-on filter with two O rings
1 x germany inline filter w/ brass inserts. Supposedly there is an O ring for the inline filter too? How come I didn't see it on the site I ordered from?

How exactly do I do the change without creating an air-in-the-fuel-system problem?

I am going to do a diesel purge (two cans), would it help if I put some of that DP into the spin-on filter before I put it on? I just pour it into the hole in the middle? Does this filter spin on from the bottom? (this is the only way that makes sense to me otherwise if you pre-fill it it would just spill out..)

I want to do the DP procedure with the NEW inline filter to get it "primed", and then change the spin on filter. Is there a reason you cant do the DP with bother new filters? Why does dieselgiant.com say to change them after.

Sorry this post was probably confusing to read.. my main questions are:
1) Is there an O-ring for the inline filter - if so can I pick it up at local autozone (is this O-ring different from the two that came with the spin-on filter)
2) How do I change the spin-on and prevent air from getting in the system (my car has no air pump for some reason). A pictorial or video would really help me..
Thanks!

Never done a 350SDL, but should be same, the inline filter should come out with the 2 screws on each end, pull out filter hold line up, keeps fuel from draining out, put back in, shop rag under work area will catch what small amount of diesel that comes out. For the spin on, I fill mine with diesel treatment, to cut down on air in system, I use diesel service, fill the filter to top, wet the rubber o ring on filter, screw on filter, yours has a self purge for air, crank, hopefully little air, start enjoy, I have over a million miles with MB diesels, never had a major engine problem, not same car.
Ron

In the 300SDL I used to have (which I believe uses the same fuel filter setup) was really simple. Unscrew the old filter, screw on the new one (filled with diesel. I filled w/Diesel Purge) and start the engine.

The fuel system is self purging, so you don't need to worry about air bubbles.

A big tip when restarting the engine: floor it. Make sure the throttle is to the floor as you crank, and you'll move the air bubbles out in a hurry. When the engine starts, make sure it's running at 1000+ rpm before you let off the throttle. If you don't it'll stall and you'll have to start it again. What I did was to keep my foot lightly on the throttle, ready to hit it again if the car started to stall.

It will take a lot more cranking than you thought to start the car. 15-30 seconds shouldn't scare you..

Neal

__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

why not change both filters BEFORE the diesel purge instead of after?

also why do two O rings come with the spin on fuel filter? Will it be obvious where they go once I screw off the old one?

Why did I read in a post somewhere there was an O ring for the inline filter? I didn't so..?