79 240D Crankshaft seal replacement - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DubMutant · #16 06-15-2007, 04:36 PM

I know this may be a day late and dollar short, but this form has heled me correct numerous issues with my diesel. I have never owned one before, so I decided that I would add the cost of some diagnostic toos into the price of the car. Get a compression tester from Sears they are about 100 bucks, most likely less than the cost of having someone do it for you.
Also, begin assembling your tool box because most likely you will need it. Spending $$ on tools is better that paying someone who knows as much as you do about your car to do the work. Catch my drift? So what that the mechanic can work on other cars and turn wrenches- what good is he if he cant address your problem.
Now that the car is running, all you may need is a new set of injectors and fuel pump timing adjustment which is relatively easy. But do purchase a compression tester- and BTW, I didn't know there was a special equipment for doing a compression check on diesel engines- isn't a compression tester a compression tester?

t walgamuth · #17 06-15-2007, 06:54 PM

I assumed a rear seal.

The front is much easier but I would not have any non experienced mechanic do that either with the possibility of damaging the keyway on the crank reinstalling the harmonic balancer.

diagnose first, then repair.

good luck

Tom W

mbzr4ever · #18 06-15-2007, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DubMutant

I know this may be a day late and dollar short, but this form has heled me correct numerous issues with my diesel. I have never owned one before, so I decided that I would add the cost of some he test.diagnostic toos into the price of the car. Get a compression tester from Sears they are about 100 bucks, most likely less than the cost of having someone do it for you.
Also, begin assembling your tool box because most likely you will need it. Spending $$ on tools is better that paying someone who knows as much as you do about your car to do the work. Catch my drift? So what that the mechanic can work on other cars and turn wrenches- what good is he if he cant address your problem.
Now that the car is running, all you may need is a new set of injectors and fuel pump timing adjustment which is relatively easy. But do purchase a compression tester- and BTW, I didn't know there was a special equipment for doing a compression check on diesel engines- isn't a compression tester a compression tester?

I agree with you, I didn't know there were special compression equipment for diesels? I think they just didn't want to do it, or don't know how.

kerry · #19 06-15-2007, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbzr4ever

I agree with you, I didn't know there were special compression equipment for diesels? I think they just didn't want to do it, or don't know how.

A diesel compression tester is usually different from a gas engine compression tester since they are designed to read higher pressures.

t walgamuth · #20 06-15-2007, 11:43 PM

yep. shops not used to working on diesels would not have one.

Tom W

P.E.Haiges · #21 06-16-2007, 01:55 AM

mbzr,

If U had Fungus contamination in your furl system, U have to treat the system with a fungacide such as Biobor.

If U don't, the fungus will grow back and plug your fuel system again.

P E H

mbzr4ever · #22 06-16-2007, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

mbzr,

If U had Fungus contamination in your furl system, U have to treat the system with a fungacide such as Biobor.

If U don't, the fungus will grow back and plug your fuel system again.

P E H

The shop said he put in about 1/2 tank of clean diesel with some "fuel treatment". Musta been some really good "fuel treatment", they charged me $38 for it. The fuel treatment I know runs about $10 max per bottle, and requires about one ounce. What else can I say but r-i-p o-f-f?

Anyway, with a 1/2 tank of fresh fuel, and the fuel treatment, I wonder how long I have to top it off and add more treatment? Can it wait a week or so until (hopefully) its out of the shop?

P.E.Haiges · #23 06-16-2007, 10:29 PM

mbzr,

There are many kinds of fuel treatment but many of them aren't a fungacide.

Biobor is the real fungacide that many others add to their snake oil treatments. If U got a treatment with a fungacide, U will be OK, but U should check to find out what was added to make sure it contained a fungacide.

NO hurry to add the second treatment ( if the first treatment was a real fungacide). Best time is when U aren't using the car much so the fungacide stays in the fuel system longer.

I Use Biobor straight, I put 1 oz. per 20 gallons for first treatment and 1/2 oz. per 20 gallons about once a year in one car that was contaminated by fungus. This has resulted in no further problems of fungus contamination. I did nothing to clean the fuel system except to clean the tank strainer. Dead fungi will eventually get caught in the fuel system filters and disappear.

Speaking of cost, I paid ~ $80 for a quart of Biobor. The ripoff was that just about 1/2 the cost was shipping because its considered a hazardous substance.

P E H

mbzr4ever · #24 06-17-2007, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

mbzr,

I Use Biobor straight, I put 1 oz. per 20 gallons for first treatment and 1/2 oz. per 20 gallons about once a year in one car that was contaminated by fungus. This has resulted in no further problems of fungus contamination. I did nothing to clean the fuel system except to clean the tank strainer. Dead fungi will eventually get caught in the fuel system filters and disappear.

Speaking of cost, I paid ~ $80 for a quart of Biobor. The ripoff was that just about 1/2 the cost was shipping because its considered a hazardous substance.

P E H

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like 1 quart (32 oz) would last a very long time? Are you saying you only need 1 oz the first time (1st 20 gallons) and it is good for a year? Then the second year, you add 1/2 oz (to the 20 gallons) and you are good for another year?

P.E.Haiges · #25 06-17-2007, 11:00 PM

mbzr,

Yes and yes. I have a lifetime supply of Biobor.

P E H

mbzr4ever · #26 06-18-2007, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

mbzr,

Yes and yes. I have a lifetime supply of Biobor.

P E H

I'm sold! In those quantities, it is quite a bargain. I'm going to see it a local marine store has it. If not, I'll order it on line. Thank you for the info.

mbzr4ever · #27 06-19-2007, 05:06 AM

OK got a report on what is going on. Compression test checked out ok, all were pretty much even around 300. Some bypass, but nothing major. The oil leak is from the timing chain that is partially broken and made a small hole (size of a pencil) in the oil pan.

The mechanic is willing to fix the timing chain (and related/various tracks/tensioners?) , fill in the hole in the oil pan, clean/adjust all the valves and clean the injectors for $2500 (of this parts come out to be about $800).

I told him to go ahead. I'm so tired of having the car just sitting around, it's been 18 months.

In light of my limited options, I have to get it fixed (or I can't move it off the island). Or, I can sell it (better to sell it running) or trash it.

mbzr4ever · #28 06-19-2007, 01:49 PM

This, from another thread, applies in my case also, and sums it up nicely:

I can see your mechanic charging 1500 for a valve job if required. Sounds about typical for todays market.
That in no way means you would be anywhere near that if you did it yourself. I will not quote what it would cost me here. For one reason I do not know what is exactly wrong yet. Plus there are variables. So much depends on your experience in life and contacts I know.
Really what these old cars are about is doing work on them yourself. If you try to even properly keep up a fairly new car using just garages it can be expensive mind an older car. The older cars can be financial killers to do all the required things if the total jobs are always farmed out.
There are basically two costs or approaches with cars of this age. One is basically a restoration approach and is commendable. The other is repair the actual problem only with perhaps a little more work if the need is indicated.
That is a judgement call usually based on experience. Plus perhaps the end result desired.
If a person is mechanically ability impaired and I guess the majority of us where at one time is another factor. We also have good shadetree mechanics out there but again even if a person finds one you need to have enough knowledge to determine if he can meet your needs. Usually far cheaper by the way as well. All life seems to be a learning experience. At my advanced age it is so ingrained I cannot stop the process even if I wanted to.

Compression Results - 350;350;350;100;350

P.E.Haiges · #29 06-20-2007, 12:11 AM

mbzr,

By "clean and adjust all the valves" do U mean he is going to to remove the head and resurface the valves and seats and install new valve guides and seals?

P E H

mbzr4ever · #30 06-21-2007, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

mbzr,

By "clean and adjust all the valves" do U mean he is going to to remove the head and resurface the valves and seats and install new valve guides and seals?

P E H

From the quote:

R&R cam cover and replace gasket, inspect valve drive and adjust valve clearance as necessary $100
valve cover gasket $13.78

It looks like most of the $2500 is replacing the timing chain/tensioner & rails, $1290 in labor and about $600 in parts (less a $400 discount so net about $1400, or about 1/2 of the $2500 bill). He showed it to me yesterday, the chain had a broken link and the plastic rails were broken.

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