could still be a bad battery. take it to autozone or somewhere and have them test it for free. The battery on my Regal died the other day, and it was less than a year old. cells can go bad in a battery rather fast. Same thing happend to my moms car not to long ago. I went to her house and hoped in, everything worked and it didn;t crank. Put a new battery in, solved the problem

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

yep. When I came back to the thread, I didn't see my own reply so I posted it again.

Here's something interesting I just noticed. When I was driving without that relay I mentioned earlier, the temp gague, fuel gague, oil level, and rpm gague on the cluster did not work. Now, with the new relay pluged in, they still don't work. I just noticed this today. Also, I tried the nss test, still no start. I'm quite sure it's not the battery because I've been starting it by running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the pin that leads to the starter with no problems.

Sure, and bypassing the GP circuit which is the big draw on the battery. Its the battery. CHeck its draw. I havent replaced mine yet, but I would think these batteries must be able to draw 750 amps to start a 22:1 compression engine with a GP sytem on. It aint a Celica.

And it starts easy cold??? Amazing with no GPs on.

If it is the battery then I don't know what to say. Yea, it starts up just fine every time. I'm going to borrow my friends multimeter tomorrow to check the voltage anyway. I've started the car atleast 60 times over the past month. I wouldn't think that it would go from not even cranking to starting instanly just because I bypassed a few circuits. If it isn't the battery, then is there a switch, fuse, or anything that is linked to the non functioning cluster gauges(fuel, temp, oil, rpms)? Perhaps something that would also prevent electricity from reaching the starter?

Ok
You have verified starter circuit from the 3 wire connector plug on firewall. So, now take a 12v test lamp or meter and hook it on the unplugged harness side, [ not the connector on firewall side].. Same circuit, but this is feed to the fire wall plug. Test lamp leads go to the center wire of harness and a good ground for other test lead.. Now, go turn key to start position and watch 12v lamp..if NO lamp [ which is what I expect], you have a problem with the NSS or the K38 starter lock-out relay..
Try that simple test ...
Also , spin fuse #5 in it's holder..that is K38 feed and retry 12v test lamp after verifying fuse [ best fuse test is with same test lamp..go to each side of fuse and ground w/key ON , don't just look at fuse as they will fool you]