on the pass side? I think you have to remove a few brackets that support the turbo and/or the turbo oil dump line.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Thank you, Turbobenz,

Yes, the 10 mm bolt and 17 mm nut appear to be a part of a bracket - I sprayed them with penetrating oil in the hope that I can pull them out, which I assume I need to do.

Dan

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I managed to get the engine mount arm removed - will give details later, was a bit challenging for me, but do-able.

Anyway, my question is that when I drilled out the screw that supports the engine mount into the arm, I had inadvertently drilled into the screw hole such that about a quarter of the hole was drilled into. That is, there are threads for about 3/4 of each turn. I already knew this and it was the reason I removed the engine mount arm. However, surprisingly, now that I removed the old screw remnants, my new allen head screw seems to fit fine! So, can I go with this, or, must I now assume that the old system is compromised and that I need to drill all the way through and get a longer bolt supported by nuts at the end? My temptation is not to drill into the engine mount arm and to use the old system, but I will drill it out if safety is compromised.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I'd put some blue loctite on the bolt and thread it in to the existing hole. The next time the mounts require replacing I'd have to remember to heat the bolt up with a torch to release the loctite.

If I were making a recommendation to someone else I'd say the best solution is to heli-coil the hole with the damaged threads. Not sure exactly what size threads those are but this may be the kit you need- http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-8-Thread-Repair-1-25/dp/B0002SREP4

I had the same problem 2 years ago -drove a cold chisel into the center, put a wrench on it and out she came! Good luck!

I ended up getting helicoils put in. A local shop did it for $36, which is cheaper than the cost of a kit plus drill bit....

I put it all back together, but noticed that the driver side engine shock is able to be pushed up through the metal support it rests on b/c its rubber 'sleeve' appears to have rotted away. I am not referring to the rubber grommets, but a sleeve that seems to hold the shock to its mounting plate. I will do a search on this, but this may have compounded the engine mount problem, leading to vibrations. I am seeking the proper part now - anyone know offhand what it is? I also want to know if my engine shocks are still OK - will search that out, too.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Sounds like you need an Engine Shock Mount:
PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store


.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Thank you, Chad. That is it!

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

The good news: After a month of being on ramps and over a year of trying to do this, the job is done! Replaced engine mounts, created drip guards, re-drilled engine mount arm w/helicoil inserts, replaced driver side engine shock mount (old one is right under fuel filter - dripping fuel at filter changes deteriorated the rubber), replaced fuel prefilter and air filter. I have some pictures to show of the old and new parts, the fabbed drip guards, etc. Will post as soon as I can.

Car runs much smoother now. However... The engine still does something it has always done. It has a side-to side vibration that will last for a few seconds, go away, come back, go away, etc. in a rhythmic pattern. I thought that these replacements would cure it, but no such luck. I have yet to replace and adjust that special bolt that goes into the fuel injector, but could that be it? Any thoughts?

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

Maybe; on the rack damper bolt and some fine tuning of the idle speed.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

dannyF --- I think I'm going to be feeling your pain tomorrow based upon tonight's events.

I'm taking the motor "arms" off tomorrow.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Good luck on the motor arm removal. I did end up getting it done last year, so it is possible (and not that bad if you don't strip anything!!!)

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

The proper way to replace the motor mounts is to first remove the engine shocks. Chances are they will be OK, but the bushings should be changed. Then remove the bolts holding the engine to the mounts. Then loosen the radiator-fan shroud and anything else that has little play, and raise the engine via a jack and block of wood such as a 4x4 under the pan. (I like to loosen the exhaust flange bolts as well). Then remove the smaller bolts holding the mounts to the chassis and remove the mounts. The height of the engine above the chassis makes a HUGE difference when searching for space to remove the mount bolts. After the new mounts are in, SLOWLY lower the engine onto the new mounts. If the bolt holes are slightly off (this usually happens on just one of the two), a hammer handle wedged between the upper pan and crossmember can be used to move the engine just enough to line up the bolt hole. Torque the mounts-to-engine bolts to specs and replace engine shocks and anything previously loosened in the engine bay. Gutten gluk!

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Don't Chrome them; polish them