Hello-

Am replacing the motor mounts. Driver's side came out OK, but the passenger side 8 mm bolt won't take to my allen driver enough to budge. I think its pretty stripped at this point.... Any suggestions? Maybe force a larger torx driver to see if I can get a grip?

Thanks.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

yeah, try to force a 9mm torx in there, and use plenty of penetrant

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

when I was changing my motor mounts, I had trouble with those
8MM bolts. my indie said he uses valve grinding compound, or lapping
on the end of the bit, and it helped to remove the bolt. It makes it bite'into the bolt better.
Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks, d.delano and Charlie, for your posts. I will try both suggestions.

Are these 8 mm bolts find-able at a regular hardware store? I want to replace my old ones.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

I stripped mine out on my sd and ended up swapping the whole arm out with one from a dead engine.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

Well, I tried lapping compound, torx bolts, etc. all to no avail. That Allen bolt is stripped and I cannot get a grip. I am considering number of options. Has anyone used a bolt remover successfully? Worst case, I will consider replacing the entire arm, but I'd really like to exhaust other options first... Another possibility, if I can get a tool into there, is to grind a slot in the head and then use an air tool with a flathead type of remover.

Any other thoughts before I go for it some more? I am getting backed up with WVO from some very reliable sources and I am eager to be using it in my Mercedes again. Thanks...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

First thing I did was to drive my allen wrench (socket) into the bolt head and hammer it pretty hard. Then I bought an Irwin product (available at my local Ace Hardware) called Bolt-Grip. It came with 5 3/8 inch sockets (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 11/16in, and 19mm) with teeth that actually bite into the alllen bolt head. I found the one that fit the bolt head and hammered it on and then used my rachet. I was able to remove every stuck bolt this way during my recent engine teardown.

Good luck, Ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

you can weld something to it. or shave down 2 opposite sides flat so you can get a wrench on it to break it loose.

I'll try those suggestions. The motor mount bolt is a little hard to access, but I'll see what I can do...

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

This bolt is almost impossible to access. I bought a set of 'bolt grips' that look great, but just don't fit through the hole that allows access to the motor mount bolt.. There is no way I can imagine welding anything to this bolt and it will take a tool that I don't have to be able to shave it down with the limited clearance around the bolt.

So, now I am down to using a bolt remover - a sort of left handed bit that drives into the bolt with a drill and, in my case, an extension. With the drill in reverse, it is supposed to unscrew the bolt. Has anybody tried this, particularly on the motor mount, and are there any voices of concern with this approach?

Unless someone has any other advice, I will plan to try this and I will report back.

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dannyf
1984 Mercedes 300 SD 214 K miles. Runs on WVO ~ 22 mpg over 8 K on WVO
1997 VW Passat TDI 156 K miles. Uses biodiesel and diesel. ~ 41 mpg
1996 Mercury Villager gasser. ~ 20 mpg

You might as well give that a try and see what happens. Be prepared for the last resort: remove engine mount arm......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Tried that on a couple of occassions and both times the extractor bit broke off in the bolt.

It's less work to remove the arm!

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0 - comatose

There are two 8 mm bolts. Which is the stripped one? Is there room to grind the bolt and mount away? Another option if the engine mount is still serviceable is to leave it. When I did mine a year ago, only the driver's side mount was bad (probably due to fuel soaking).

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Can you get a drill/drill bit to it? If you can then I would just drill down through the head until you drill it off. After the mount is out of the way you should then be able to take some vice grips and turn it out.

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Jim

As said above, drill it out. I did this on my parts car when trying to remove the engine. It took less than 10 minutes of drilling. Start with a bit that fits inside the allen head. Look at the bolt from the other side to get an idea of the required bit sizes. You'll know you've drilled enough when the head of the bolt breaks off and slides over the drill bit.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold