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  #16  
Old 06-21-2007, 05:10 PM
babymog's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,765
If it's a good one, I'm thinkng you did well.

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  #17  
Old 06-21-2007, 05:31 PM
henrydupont
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Originally Posted by justinperkins View Post
I'm in the middle of doing this job right now too. It's not too hard, you've just got to take your time and pay attention to what you're removing. I have it kind of easy since I can always just go look at the engine of my other wagon to compare stuff.

The cracks should be very obvious, no special anything needed.

A replacement head, especially a #22 is big $$. Search for a good deal. It will take some time I imagine.

Good luck.
I took a head to the machine shop and they couldn't see it right away. eventually they found it, it was under an exhaust valve...
is the head for a no turbo the same? I can get those by the 100's in europe
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  #18  
Old 06-21-2007, 10:26 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Not a horrible job, but a PITA, especially if someone else has been monkeying around like on mine. Fun stuff at bad times:

Broken head bolt, required a ton of work to get the head loose (and we then bent the tubo feed line -- more on that later). Get new head bolts, these are really re-usable and only set you back $100 or so. Cheap at the price of a blown head gasket.

Broken stud on the exhaust from superman eating too many wheaties before tightening up an 8mm stud nut. On Sunday at 5 pm, no less. Did you know that Chevy uses 8mm studs on their water pumps? It came out with an easyout, quite a surprise.

Check the head for warpage if it shows no cracks, they can be saved if they have not been machined before.

Don't skip a bolt while torquing them down, there are what, 21? Have a helper keep track.

Watch that damned turbo oil line! The head will have to come out with exhaust and turbo on it, unless you want to spend a couple hours getting the nuts off the studs with no room from underneath. The blasted oil line has a female flare fitting on the end, and it stays in the block if you don't remember to swivel the head toward the passenger side, and if you are using an engine hoist like we were, you will pull the loop out of the pipe. Huge PITA to get re-bent so it fits.

Blow the head bolts out before you try to remove them, they are triple-square socket heads, and if the tool doesn't go all the way down, you strip the bolt part way. Nasty.

You must remove the cam, so be careful not to drop it or mix up the bearing caps.

I just put a head gasket on mine, and it may be holding, I need to test it again with full coolant pressure. No cracks, but it may have been warped. Gasket was DEFINITELY blown -- from #6 into the left rear headbolt cavity (that's the one that broke off), between #3 and #4, and maybe out the side at #1 (and it had the major oil leak that tells you the gasket has gone, too).

Peter

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