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  #1  
Old 06-18-2007, 07:36 PM
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Question 1985 300d caliper identification (has MB logo)

I've spent too many hours searching for a way to identify the front calipers
on my 85 300d. All markings have long since been peeled off by rust,
however today I noticed one of them still has just enough of a 'mercedes logo' on it that hasnet rusted off. I'm under the belief that this would mean it is an original Bendix.

Am I on the right track?

In reality, I have no idea what Im using to back that up, as I have just inhaled too much information on the subject and cannot remember all 1000 pages of information I have been looking at...

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1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2007, 07:37 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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the cars came with ATE or Bendix.. my 85 has ATE

let me find some pics



bendix



ATE
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2007, 07:42 PM
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My 85sd has Bendix on front and ATE on back. Your best bet is to buy rebuilt ones.The rear pad pins you can find on the internet but the front pins I only located at the dealer at $15.00 each!!!
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2007, 07:48 PM
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the front pins to hold the pads in? pfft. I purchased front and back sets from my parts guy.

come to think of it I think the pins are universal

Last edited by TheDon; 06-18-2007 at 07:53 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2007, 08:29 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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The pins for the ate are different from the bendix....but the two brands are totally interchangible and use the same pads.

I prefer the ate but the bendix work fine too.

Tom W
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  #6  
Old 06-18-2007, 08:33 PM
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"just enough of a 'mercedes logo' on it "

Ding!


Cool. Looks like bendix.
How hard is the rebuld? 5 minute job?
I'd rather spend $15 x2 for rebuild kits than for
rebuilds at $70.


Im pretty sure the last brake change was what got them to leaking.
Indy had a hellish time trying to get the pads in... Likely thats what busted it up.

Wont know Exactally whats up with the caliper seal till they are off, so I may have to grab 2 rebuild kits and 2 rebuilts to throw on just incase
the calipers are beyond repair. I have a feeling the seal isnt ripped,
I have a feeling the caliper was molested out of shape. I've never seen a brakejob include massive crowbaring.

I dont mind overbuying parts as I have always got what I paid back by placing extras on ebay.
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2007, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstef View Post

I'd rather spend $15 x2 for rebuild kits than for
rebuilds at $70.

I found rebuilt front calipers in stock at my local O'Reillys for under $50 each last summer.

Just a suggestion.
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2007, 08:46 PM
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The Bendix front pins are $15 each from the dealer the rear ATE pins are about $3or $4 each but they are totally different and are not interchangeable. If the calipers are that rusted and that beat up don't waste your time with rebuilding them yourself get ones that are rebuilt already . Dont forget that the rear's need break pad shims. I had a hard time finding them so I just made them ,it's an easy job
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2007, 09:04 PM
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Uh- hold up.... (or not)

1st of all I've caught myself posting on too many forums at once.

Secondly. Heres a pic of my leaky caliper. It does look from this angle more like an ATE. That large 6....
left front...




heres the right front

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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.
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  #10  
Old 06-18-2007, 09:21 PM
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glad I have ATE's all around
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  #11  
Old 06-19-2007, 08:37 AM
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best way to tell which you have is look at the spring on them. wire spring, bendix, flat spring, atx.
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2007, 09:25 PM
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I think the rust buildup on the caliper piston made getting the new pads on desperate for your indie. He should have suggested rebuilt calipers at that time. If your brakes do not drag now you were lucky. Just my opinion though. You are leaking I think more likely from the corroded part of the piston sitting or tearing up the piston seal with thicker new pads. I do not think I would try to kit them in your case.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2007, 10:05 PM
ForcedInduction
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Buying a set of rebuilt calipers is worth the little bit extra. The time it takes to properly rebuild 2 calipers (IF the pistons do not have any rust) isn't worth it.
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2007, 10:51 PM
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I'm with Lance...

Cough up the extra pennies for a set of rebuilt calipers. The time and labor savings are enough of an incentive-not to mention taking out all the guess work.

Just inquire to the gang, here, about their experience and opinions of calipers they've bought.

It's great to garner knowledge....through the suffering of others..and not of your own!
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2007, 09:10 AM
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I went to the local pick and pull
paid $50 for some nice newer looking calipers [4] and a master tooo!!!
with pads with even lite ware and was able to test for drag on the car

btw brake drag can be bad hoses that donot allow fluid return do to age/intuirnal breakdown so replace them tooo even if not leaking on the out side

any w126 brakes work even the anti lock ones on a non-antilock car
and so do 300d brakes and their gas versions too [same part #]
calipers anyway masters are different but non-anti-lock masters all swap
and lots of well maintained gasers to strip down here in miami


Last edited by nota; 06-20-2007 at 09:16 AM.
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