I have owned the car 6 months and did my first Diesel Purge today following the DieselGiant website instructions.

It was easy enough. My only advice is to get a bolt that fits tightly in your supply line you are closing up. I had to elevate my hose to prevent it from leaking. I had something in there, it just wasn't stopping fuel from coming out.

Also, I only had around 18-20 inches per hose. It would have been better with 24 inches each. Not a whole lot of black smoke, but a noticeably smoother engine, a little less noise, not much. And less smoke. Overall, for the $15 invested I am happy. My car must have been in pretty good shape though, which I am more satisified with. I have seen it recommended to do it every 6 months. Any other opinions...

My car has 220K. To change both Fuel Filters and run the purge I am looking at around $25-30 every 6 months!!!

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Don't bother, I have only done it twice on my car in 54k and 4 years of driving it, most of the time it made little to no difference. Drive it hard and it will run fine forever without diesel purge. I usually purge and replace the filters every 1.5-2 years. Usually around 2 years.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'82 300SD 320k -mine Parting out this summer. (OC-323,450)
'89 420SEL 147k - mine (OC-147,500)
'93 190D 2.2 - 208k - mine (OC-210,100)
'13 VW GolfWagon TDI 6Speed - 0k - wifes
'82 300SD 340k -dad's (OC-341,200)
'87 420SEL - 305k - dad's - (OC-309,400)
'83 300D - 258k - brother's -FOR SALE AS RUNNING PARTS CAR
'02 E320 - 136k - brother's (OC - 142,500)
'12 VW Jetta - 7k - Sisters

I'm ending up running cetane boost, Howes, etc to condition the fuel ( it pings on regular D), so to Purge it would be superfluous imho. To each his own. I might purge regularly when I start running bioD in the car ( it needs the cetane!), but for now its purging continuously.

A couple of other suggestions:

1. Whilst purging, as you get toward the end of the can, shut off the engine and let the concentrated solution soak in the injecters for 15-30 minutes.

2. It's a good idea to time the purge just before you change the oil, as I understand the purge can flush some crud into the oil. Not sure of the veracity of this one, but it's one of those things that's essentially free, so.... why not?

Jim

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'00 C230 sport Brilliant silver
95 E300 diesel Black
95 E320 wagon Brilliant silver
94 E320 cabriolet Emerald green
84 280SL Lapis blue
71 250C Black

I did change the oil following the purge, and the car did sit for awhile before I drove it. I notice some black crap on the fuel pre-filter after the purge, not much stuff, but since this went well.. I may go to once a year. I am putting on 18,000 miles + per year.

I drove it today to work, and notice it has "smoothed out" acceleration, very smooth at highway speeds, no smoke on hard accelerating, and I believe it is even quieter overall....

I believe.....

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

You might also consider a valve adjustment. Not a hard task. If you have never done one, and have no records, then you are past due. Mine were 100% tight when I first got the car, only 2 valves slightly tight 8 months later.

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Mercury is a boxer

1984 300d
1999 Prelude
Medici road bike
Klein touring bike
Klein mtn bike

I am very interested in this. I am a beginner mechanic though, and don't know if this would qualify as an advanced procedure. I know you need special tools right? Is it just a matter of taking off the valve cover, adjusting the clearances, and puttting on a new gasket?

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

Generally you are correct. You would need a feeler gauge (Sears has plenty) and some wrenches to adjust the adjuster nuts below the lobes on the cams.

The first time I did this on my motorcycle it took 4-6 hours. The second time was about an hour. The actual procedure can be found here:

http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius

96 SL 500

Assumption is the mother of all screw ups.

Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke

be sure your feeler guages go to .004" or .102mm, most do not.
if you don't buy the special prebent 14mm wrenches, be sure you have a few decent 14mm wrenches and grind one of the faces to about 3/16" thick for the lock nut. if you are going to use the power steering pulley to turn over your motor, it is easier to pull the glow plugs out first, so you don't have to fight compression when turning. also, I find that when the valves need to be adjusted, the prechambers are usually pretty dirty, so I pull the injectors too, and clean out the threads (why do they usually have carbon up around the threads on these cars? does NOBODY replace the heat shields when they service these cars?) and replace the heat shields with fresh new ones. with the injectors out, there is nothing in the way and adjusting the valves is baby simple.

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