My IP has started to leak and it appears to be delivery valve seal failure. I've read the wiki on this and it seems doable but there does appear to be several ways to screw it up. For those familiar, how hard is this job?


thanks,

Kevin
1979 240D manual
1984 190D manual (somebody buy this car so I can get a 300TD)

On the 603's IP, the IP has a slight recess where the delivery valve threads into the top of the IP. Crud will accumulate there and it is really hard to clean it up very well. IF you aren't careful, you run the risk of dropping this crud into the IP from those recesses. Take it slow. I used a small pick tool to gently push the crusty guck away from the delivery valve holes.

I'm guessing that the 601 uses a similar IP but with fewer holes.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Mine did the same thing when I started using ULSD. Getting the air cleaner and intake runners out of the way was more work than replacing the o-rings on the delivery valves. I believe the IP on the 601 is a similar design to the 602/603's. They use the same 32pt socket to remove the delivery valve...$$$.

Before you unscrew anything on the ip definitely clean the gunk off the top. Be thorough. Remove the hard injection lines. Remove the locking plates. Use that fancy socket to unscrew the delivery valve. When you lift the valve out of the IP be ready for a small spring to fall out of it. Catch the spring but leave the other little loose parts in the IP. Replace the o-ring…then reinstall the spring…then carefully reinsert the delivery valve being careful to get the spring and small parts below to line up properly.

This is a good time to change the small oring on the shut off lever shaft also (beings you have access to the pump)...the tech section has a very nice write-up on this.

Matt

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Matt

'87 - fj60 (mine)
'96 - fzj80 (mine but I let her drive it)
'85 - 190D 201.122; 601.921; 722.403 (mine too)

Check out http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_injection_pump_o_ring_r.htm

He does the fix right there for your eyes to see. The socket is about $40 on ebay or $60 if you buy the Snapon tool which I recommend. I have the $40 and it's ok but the teeth are not as solid as they could be.

Also... Here's a horror story. On my VERY First Mercedes Diesel I took it to a shop to have the o-ring changed for $200. The guy somehow ruined the injection pump and refused to pay for it. I took him to court on it and he ended up winning. It was so obvious he ruined the car. But he got away with it. Moral of the story...
A. Work on the car yourself
or
B. Find a shop that seems like they are trustworthy and will stand behind their work to the death. Really, if I was a mechanic Do unto others as you'd have them do unto you is a good rule to stand by. Not always easy though. He should have payed for his mistake.

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-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Have done the o-rings on both of my 190's in the past month. Easy enough, hour and a half job, removal and reinstallation of the air box, linkages, injector lines, and intake manifold consumes most of the time involved. Read the above posts, especially R Leo's.

I might suggest that, if you haven't already done so, while you have all of the miscellaneous intake stuff out of the way it would be an opportune time to change all of the rubber fuel lines that are located underneath; $20 worth of hose and clamps may save you some grief later on.

Jim

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2005 C240 4matic wagon (daily driver)
87 190D - 225K (on loan)
85 190D - 312K (on loan)
2011 Subaru Legacy AWD (Wife's)