Hello all,

I have managed to get a #22 casting replacement head. It looks great! Being as I now have the entire motor dissassembled, I went ahead and had the crank magnafluxed and polished. This head gasket change has turned into a overhaul! I will be putting in new main bearings as well as conrod bearings. So here is my question how much of a rrisk would I be taking if I don't use new hardware in the crank and con-rods?...

And yes a new water pump and thermostat and the list goes on......

Eddie E.

87 300SDL
95 GMC K1500

[QUOTE=FLYWULF;1562339]Hello all,

I have managed to get a #22 casting replacement head.

Can you let us on the secret where you manage to get hold of a #22 head? How much did you pay for it? Is it complete? Thanks.

What new hardware? Bolts?

The con rod cap bolts have a diameter spec for the necked down area. Spec for new is something like 7.4mm, discard at 7.1mm or less. I think there are similar specs for the main bolts and drive plate bolts but Adobe goes goofy if I open too many pdfs :/

Sixto
87 300D

Well I now have a replacement head and need to figure out how to time the injection pump without the MBZ special tools. Any suggestions?

I have read the engine manual and know about the timing mark inside the pump itself and can see it when the cover is removed from the port for the aligning tool/sensor thing-a-ma-jig. The manual has the crank line up at 15 degrees past TDC when this mark is in its window and the camshaft is to line up its marks. I am guessing that if I find when the pump begins its start of delivery on the number one cylinder that the marks should all line up. The difficult part is to find when the pump is delivering on the number one cylinder. For that little issue does anyone have any suggestions?

Are there any manuals available specifically for the injection pump itself?


Once I get past this little dilemma I should be able to reassemble the entire car and be on the road again!

Thanks all for your assisstance,

Eddie E.

Answering your question about where I got the head, I cold called salvage yards all over the nation looking for the models that have the #22 head as standard equipment from the factory. I found a few #14 heads when I was searching for that part number as well. I got very lucky with this search. I happened to find a yard in san diego that had just received a 1990 350 SD and had not even dissassembled it. I asked them to check the part # fro the head and they confirmed it was a #22. I sealed the deal that I was #1 on the list if the head checked good on the presure test. The best part is they sold it to me for $600.00. I then took it to a machine shop with my old #14 head and from the two they cleaned resurfaced and constructed a head using the best of the parts available from both units. The total cost was $1,150.00. I don't have any phone numbers but I am sure I could find it if anybody wanted to try the same yard.

Eddie E.

I'll ask here because us SDL guys are here.

I need a conrod bearing cap or end cap for my '86 SDL.

The motor I'm rebuilding had one come off. That's why there's two holes in the block. I got a replacement block, new pistons/rings, and the block is in the machine shop as we speak.

Anybody got one they can spare?

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

IIRC conrods and caps are cast together and then bored and separated. I could be wrong, but I do remember buying con rods and caps as a matched set.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Eddie,

1) All US cars with the 3.5 engine came with 17 casting heads. 19, 20, 22 were supplied as replacements. If someone claims a 22 was original equipment, I'd look for what other lies s/he is telling you

2) RIV != start of delivery! Start of delivery is at something like 24* BTDC, RIV is at something like 14* ATDC. RIV is completely arbitrary. It has nothing to do with the delivery cycle of the IP. There is no separate start of delivery check for this engine. I'll risk saying it's irrelevant if you can correctly apply the RIV method.

3) When the crank is at 14* ATDC, the cam alignment marks will not be matched. Check the cam lobes to ensure you are at 14* ATDC of #1 cylinder (both cam lobes not displacing the lifters). That's all.

If you can see the IP timing lug centered in the port when the crank pulley is at 14* ATDC #1, your engine will start and will probably run as well as possible. At this point go celebrate and enjoy your car while you wait for delivery the A-B IP timing light which you can rent from the good folks on the tools forum.

Sixto
87 300D

Michael, I have 6 caps off a 3.5. I'm pretty sure the caps aren't bent

I agree with RRG that rod and cap should be replaced as a matched set. If you get a replacement rod, have all 6 balanced or at least weight matched.

If your machinist can properly match a 3.5 cap to a 3.0 rod, I'll send you one or two.

Sixto
87 300D

I hope he can. I didn't mark the caps.

Come to think of it. All the rods are from the doner replacement block, which came with crank, pistons with rods, but no caps. So out of 12 pistons, 12 rods, I have 5 caps. The rods from the original engine are still with the busted block, back at the farm.

I'll PM you.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

The rods and cap pairs are marked. On the ones I've seen there's a piece of tape with a handwritten numeral on the rod and cap. That must be some special tape to hang on to a hot oily rod over millions of revolutions.

Sixto
87 300D

I would think so. That means I'll have to go up north and retrieve the conrods out of the old block. I've got the 5 caps here.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Good morning all,

Sixto,

I am still confused. I am not finding what I need in the manuals.

What is getting my goat is this. I am building up the motor after a complete teardown. I need to know how to set up the timing chain from square one. It seems that I should line up the crank at #1 TDC and the match the camshaft with its timing mark. The move the crank to 15 Deg. ATDC and look for the timing(RIV?) mark in the port of the IP. With that the engine should run. But, the issue that scares me is this, how do I know that the IP is timed to deliver fuel to the #1 Cylinder?

It appears to be a one in six chance of getting it right.

There are no timing marks on the drive gear for th IP.

There must be a way of knowing with certainty that the IP is correctly timed.

This is my first experience with a diesel in this respect. I have only changed filters up to this point.

Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge about these matters.

Eddie E.

If the IP rotating notch is visible in the port at 15 ATDC, then, by definition, the #1 cylinder is timed to the engine.

Your only possible error is that it could be timed to the exhaust stroke and not the power stroke. You need to be careful with this and ensure that the crankshaft is on the top of the compression stroke when you set the camshaft. Make sure both valves are closed on #1.

I'd also advise you to get the RIV lights to properly time it. I don't think you can do better than +/- 3° by a visual in the port.

Here's the shortcut I should have given earlier - set the cam alignment marks so you know you're at #1 ignition TDC. The marks don't align at #6 ignition TDC. Then advance the crank to 14* ATDC.

When fitting the chain, leave the tensioner off and take up the slack between the cam and crank sprockets on the passenger side of the engine. All the slack should be on the IP side. Align the cam marks with the chain in that condition.

Beats me why there isn't an alignment key on the IP sprocket. And why the RIV timing lug doesn't use TDC as a reference rather than 14* ATDC.

You understand this more than you know. Stop second guessing yourself

Sixto
87 300D