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  #1  
Old 06-23-2007, 03:35 PM
My hood can go higher?
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 315
W123 Rear trailing arm - How do I get this bolt off?

Suffice to say, the trailing arm is rusted:


Too many New Jersey winters



Trying to scope out how to get this replaced and am not sure how I am going to get this bolt out as it's blocked by the body


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1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:13 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,802
Do you mean you can't extract the bolt because it hits the body or you can't get a wrench on the bolt? If the latter I'm guessing you can hang a box wrench on the bolt and undo the nut at the other end. It's gonna be a long day if you have all of 15* of swing for your ratchet.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0 - comatose
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:28 PM
My hood can go higher?
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 315
You are correct, it is the latter; I cannot get a wrench on the bolt.

I didn't investigate fully but it seemed equally as difficult to get to the nut on the other side
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1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:04 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: SF Bay Area
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You might get enough clearance by dropping the front arm of the subframe. Undo the bolt that goes up into the body. The head of the bolt is visible just to the right of the red circle in the second picture. With that bolt out, pry down on the arm of the subframe. It should move a half foot or so.

If that's not enough, the subframe has to come down. It's attached at the other side the same way and at the differential. I think removing the differential rear mount is enough to drop the subframe. There are a couple of bolts at the top of the diff but I think they go into the subframe rather than the body.

At this point take a step back and determine whether it makes more sense to replace just the rusty trailing arm or perhaps the entire rear assembly out of a donor car. There aren't that many attachment points and you could end up with fresher parts for the same amount of effort.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0 - comatose
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:05 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Keep an eye on fuel lines, brake lines and park brake cables as you drop the subframe arm.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0 - comatose
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2007, 05:53 PM
My hood can go higher?
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 315
Didn't really think about that

Do you think it would be easier to replace the whole subframe? Fresher parts would be a good idea since the springs are sagging quite badly and theres surface rust on other portions.

Swapping the subframe, will I be able to do this without a spring compressor? Does the old differential stay in place?
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:26 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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I think it's easier to replace the assembly than major pieces. Someone with W123 experience will have to chime in.

Shocks and springs have to come off. The rear assembly will consist of the subframe, trailing arms, diff, axles, brakes, etc.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0 - comatose
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Old 06-23-2007, 10:08 PM
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1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Raleighish, NC
Posts: 664
You can jack the car up and (support it safely) use a 24mm? box wrench on the nut. Use a 3lb dead blow hammer to help break it loose. It won't hurt to soak it with PB as long as you can either. You will get better access to the bolt by dropping the front subframe part as mentioned. Use a floor jack under the front to keep it from dropping too far. Once you get going you will see how it all works. Also when I'm under my car I like to stack a couple of tires under the corners just in case, even tho it is on jack stands etc. I just fell better when I'm beating on and pulling on wrenches underneath something. Good Luck.

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