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  #1  
Old 06-23-2007, 03:49 PM
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Windshield washer system Help!!!!

Hello Forum gurus,

I have been having issues with my windshield washer system. The wipers work but the washer portion does not. The spray nozzles were clogged, the hose leading to the water bottle reservoir looked old and cracked and the washer pump was suspect.
This weekend I decided to tackle rebuilding the system. Hereís were I could use some help. I have installed a new washer pump, replaced all the spray nozzles and hoses and tried out the system but it still does not work.
I figure it must be electrical. I have been looking at schematics and cannot locate the line for the washer pump? It shows the wiper motor line but not the washer pump line. Are they the same unit? Iím also wondering if there may be a fault at the turn signal switch. Iím not sure what to tackle 1st and how? I have a volt meter but I have never used it so I cannot be sure were in the line it has failed? As you can see I must be a newbie if I never used a volt meter!!! You have to start sometime. Any help would be great!!!!

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 06-23-2007, 03:59 PM
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First thing I'd check is the fuse to that unit. Then Look in the manual. That's a tough one. I have no idea where your problem could be. But I'd check a haynes manual for your wiring.

Also, you never specified your car. You may want to put your vehicles in the signature of your posts.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2007, 03:59 PM
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With key on, engine off, press the wiper lever. You should hear the pump buzz with the hood up. There is a check valve to hold water at the nozzles under hood, I think on the driver side. Is that there? If the pump buzzes, remove the hose on the pump and press again. Water should shoot out from the pump. Disconnect each hose at each washer nozzle, and each hose should spray water. Report back with results.
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:55 PM
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I hear no buzz

It is a 1983 300D Turbo. I hear no buzz when I push in the washer lever. I replaced the check valve and I have checked fuses and all are operational (non-blown) Thanks guys I really appreciate everyone trying to problem solve! but Im still stumped.
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:59 PM
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When you pressed the lever did the wipers swipe one or two times? and no water sprayed? AND put your year and type of vehicle in your signature!
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2007, 01:53 AM
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still no windshield wiper spray...bummed

Carnut...yes wipers work in all positions but no spray. I do not hear the pump when I depress the wiper lever. This lead me to believe it is electrical in nature.I hope. I guess Im trying to find out arethe wiper motor and the wiper spray motor part of the same unit? If that is the case then I would likely need to replace the unit? Unless some one has any other ideas of what it could be?
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  #7  
Old 06-24-2007, 02:04 AM
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could you jump 12v to the actual pump to see if that makes the pump turn?
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Old 06-24-2007, 03:58 AM
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I suppose I could theoretically but I have no idea how I would? Any suggestions?
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:52 AM
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Thumbs up It's in there.....

MB Service Manual, Electrical Schematics......Page 128 (wiper/washer) ......your wiper motor is right there on the right hand side of the page......

without going back to re-read your post, I think you said that you have checked the washer motor? It's located in the bottom of the tank......the tank is easily removed....a couple of screws (as I remember) and the hose and electrical connection......

Remove the tank.......supply 12V to the plug, and pump should run.....not necessary to ascertain direction of rotation.....it runs or it doesn't.....if it runs.....

take your voltmeter, set it on the closest range above 12V DC...DC....DC....I repeat DC once again.....and attach the leads to the other end of the plug......and have someone turn on the washers.....should read 12V -+.......if you don't have voltage, try attaching the black Voltmeter lead to a good ground......and when washer is activated test each side of the plug....if you now get 12V on one or the other side of the plug.....you have a bad ground......

From what I saw in the schematic......the washer activation will make your wipers operate for a few seconds, and if it does then the problem is somewhere in the wiring to the washer motor......most likely the ground.....

SB
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:37 AM
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[QUOTE=sylvanimate;1544264][ I never used a volt meter!!! [/QUOTE)

You might want to pick up a 12 volt "test light", kind if like a ice pick with a light in the handle and a lead with an alligator clip. Handy for finding whats "hot" and whats not.
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  #11  
Old 06-24-2007, 02:52 PM
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I agree! I prefer a test light over a multimeter.
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2007, 03:43 PM
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Thumbs up Test lights are good.....IF.....

Test lights are good only if you don't go nutz and poke a buncha holes in the wiring insulation with that nice, handy "ice pick"....

SB
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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2007, 04:02 PM
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Stevo and Carnut are correct. A test light is a necessity when trouble shooting electrical systems. A volt meter is only needed when checking the operation of a working circuit. In my auto electric shop, I use test lights for almost every electrical problem. Starters, alternators, computers (only if you know what you are checking), lighting, windows, guages, and the list goes on and on. Meters are usually used for final testing of alternators, or computer work.
With that out of the way, use a test light to check for voltage at the pump with the wash switch pressed. I don't remember the color but It won't be brown. If you have voltage. Move the test light clip to the battery + terminal and probe the ground side of the pump, probably the brown wire if it has one. I don't remember which way this circuit works so we can check for the other possibly of circuit operation. Just turn the ignition switch on and see of there is voltage on one of the wires without pressing the washer switch. If there is, we have a circuit that is grounded to make it operate. If that is the case, move the test light clip to the + on the battery and probe both wires one at a time while pressing the washer switch. Using these test you should be able to figure out which type of system we have and where the problem may be.
The above test is a general test sequence I use to determine which type of circuit I have and where the problem probably is. It works for most circuits. With some of this information we can better help locate the problem. A test light is like any other tool. For the home mechanic, a 2 or 3 dollar one will be fine. You can also get one for $50. One important test that must ALWAYS done is make sure the test light works each time you start on a job.
Don't get a test light with a LED type light but one with a incandescent bulb.
Test lights are also great for checking fuses. Not only do they check the fuse but also the fuse contact in the fuse block. The list of uses just goes on and on.

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