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#1
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Timing chain tensioner and rail replacement
In section 05-330 of the FSM (step 11), it says to remove the camshaft sprocket, but it doesn't say anything about removing the chain.
But... my question is this: Is it possible to remove the sprocket without removing/unlinking the chain?
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#2
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Once you remove the tensioner, the chain has plenty of slack. Just remove the sprocket with the chain attached. Be careful of the thrust washer that lives behind the sprocket. It wants to take a fast trip to China if you're not careful........
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#3
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Thanks for the tip Brian!
Now, you're talking about the tensioner, spring, and "bolt" (aka thrust pin) - not the tensioner rail, right? I'll strategically place a magnet back there to hold that thrust washer while I remove the sprocket, just to be safe! Oh, and maybe some vice-grips to hold the chain to the sprocket.?. Thanks again!
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#4
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Quote:
The problem is that the cam sprocket is the only thing that keeps the cam from moving rearward. So, once you pull the sprocket, next thing you know, the camshaft slides rearward and the washer falls off. The washer can't fall off the front of the camshaft unless the camshaft moves rearward. So, the safest bet is to put a block of wood or some device at the back end of the cam so it cannot move rearward. Then, you can't lose the thrust washer. Do yourself a favor and paint a large white mark across the face of the chain and onto the sprocket. You'll be overjoyed that you did this upon reassembly. Trust me. |
#5
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OK... it shows that in the manual. I had no idea why, but I had planned to do it anyway.
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#6
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You can use plastic zip ties to hold the chain on the sprocket.
Which rail are you replacing? Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 - comatose |
#7
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With the painted white line, you can just remove the sprocket from the chain, if desired.
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#8
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Certainly wouldn't skip the mark. I just find zip ties less cumbersome than vice grips. Can't accidentally knock loose a zip tie either
Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 - comatose |
#9
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Quote:
The only reason to use the zip ties and/or vice grips is when you're rolling in a new chain and you lose the reference mark........naturally. |
#10
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Sixto, I'm replacing the tensioner rail; that's why the cam sprocket must come off.
Brian, I will be replacing the chain soon too (probably late July), but the tensioner pin and tensioner rail need immediate attention. (I wish I would've taken a picture while I was doing the valve adjustments.)
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#11
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Tensioner rail? The front cover has to come off for that (pull radiator, remove fan, remove crank pulley installed to 250 lbft, etc.).
Maybe you mean the upper guide rail? Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 - comatose |
#12
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Oops, I see 82 300SD in your sig line. I thought this was a 603. Sorry about that.
Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 - comatose |
#13
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Quote:
My 617 had a groove in the rail that was maybe 1/3 of the total depth of the material. I'm sure the rail is good for 400K miles. Before you do all that work, take a couple of closeup photos and post them so we can comment. |
#14
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Yes, I'm certain, but not because of the "unobtainium" surface. It's fine.
It's the back side that's the problem - the protrusion which makes contact with the pressure bolt (aka thrust pin). They are misaligned causing significant wear to both the "bolt" end and the contact point. It looks like the rail might slip off toward the rear of the engine any moment, causing the chain to lose its tension and ... well, use your imagination.
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
#15
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an idea for pin removal tool
What if I just used a bolt, nut, washer and a small piece of pipe?
=[ <\\\\\[=====]|[]\\\\\[] =[ pin in engine <\\\\\ bolt (6 or 8mm - FSM says two pins need to be removed) [=====] pipe | washer [] nut \\\\\[] bolt head 1. thread nut all the way onto bolt 2. slip washer onto bolt 3. slip pipe on bolt 4. thread bolt into pin head 5. tighten nut while holding bolt head, causing pin to be pulled from engine (I realize pipe ID must be large enough for pin head.) Do you think it will work?
__________________
Brian _________________________________ Sometimes the only choices you have left are bad ones. Agent Broyles (Fringe) |
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