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#1
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Question about replacing Brake Booster
Hey Guys,
I'm set to replace the brake booster on my 81 300td. Will there be enough room to move the master brake cylinder out of the way and not disconnect any of the brake lines while swapping in the new booster? I would like to avoid having to re-bleed the brake lines if at all possible. Thanks, Tim Vancouver BC |
#2
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No...
Youre going to have to remove the MC and re-bleed. I cant see how it could be done any other way. Its not that bad to do... Could be a good time to look at those rubber brake hoses and replace them.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#3
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Quote:
Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#4
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Me three. For what it is worth I find it easier to move the front seat all the way back and roll the back down and then lay on my back with head in the foot well. This is the most comfortable position for me (6'2") to get into the foot well.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#5
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Agree totally. I wedged my head under the pedals and used a 1/4" drive with a universal. Took me 10 minutes to get the nuts off once I was situated.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#6
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Seems to me that I did replace the booster on one of the W123s with the M/C still in place. I did bend the lines a good bit (not permanently). You may be able to just loosen the lines on the M/C without sucking in any air. You certainly cannot do this on a W116.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#7
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And now that I think about it I realized at the end that with the foot well panel off you can see straight through the wiring directly at the bolts. I used to long extensing to get there. There was even a hole cut in some sheet metal which led me to find this path.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#8
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I also use a 1/4" drive with a looong wobbly thin extension rather than a universal. Works pretty well but you end up feeling for the top bolts rather than seeing them.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#9
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Monkey wrench
I would certainly try to remove MC from booster first. I think there is enough wiggle room to accomplish. Wait a minute, I have one, MC and booster laying around, will disassemble. Three minutes later, I don't see a problem. Remove two nuts and washers, it will slide out, has a female end that fits over plunger. Came off an '82 300 DT. Replace gasket while you're there.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#10
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Thanks for the help guys!
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