Even MORE A/C fun...not!
 

Driving home yesterday, I noticed the A/C not blowing as cold as usual. When I get home I smell the familiar odor of brakes that are too hot. Turns out A/C clutch is now slipping. I can turn the compressor by hand and notice no abnormal resistance. Since a clutch costs a little less than a remanned compressor, I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the compressor with a brand new one, replace the dryer, and replace the expansion valve.

I did replace the compressor last year along w/the dryer. The flush was less than optimal. My question is this...what is the best way to flush the system a home person can do with out going to the shop?

Thanks!

When I did it the second time (the first time I didn't flush and the new compressor died on the first day), I basically took a plastic/vinyl line that fit snugly inside the compressor manifold lines and outside some of the other fittings and connected it to a funnel. Poured the flush in the funnel, let it drain, blew compressed air through for about 5 minutes (until flush stopped spraying out the end) and repeated twice/thrice.

The main target with flushing is the condensor, so flush it very very thoroughly. Flush the rest as well, but pay special attention to the condensor.

Thanks guys for the quick replies. I found a brand new compressor for $220 at NAPA in Wylie TX. The buy from Hendricks or Hancock in Dallas. I also looked at Diesel Giant's web site and saw the BG Frigi-Quite II for...GULP $39.95. I went to BG's web site and found a local distributor in Fort Worth TX. The charge from a BG rep is $9.95. DG is getting proud of his stuff now. Even the dryer is double what I paid last year...hmmmm. So here is the link for the BG search for distrubutors in your areas....

http://www.bgprod.com/bgdistloc/distloc.php

I have a line on all my parts. My question is, how effective is methanol or acetone as a flush vs. the aerosol cans? I do have a 150 psi air compressor.

I just used a can of interdynamics A/C system flush from the local McParts.

How did it do, and how much does it cost per can?

It worked quite well and it was quite reasonable, as I recall. It started coming out clean pretty quickly, but I flushed it again just to be sure.

I don't have a lot of experience here though, so I can't be sure. I do know it was under $10 for a fairly large canister though.

I've got a flush gun you can borrow if you would like. I'm just on the Dallas side of the lake off of I-30.
You going to the GTG tomorrow?

Jimmy,

No, I am tied up doing other stuff, so no GTG...:bigcry:

I'll take you up on the flush gun, though. IIRC you are close to Mesquite. What solvent do you use with that setup?

Thanks!!!

I just used alcohol, but I have access to it. It only takes a gallon or so, and I used the alcohol because it cleans pretty well then dries. Just regular AC flush would work, and many folks have used mineral spirits with no issues.
Yep, I'm in between Mesquite and the lake, in Sunnyvale. Just a mile down from that power plant.
We can exchange cell #'s via PM. A flush gun makes it so much easier. It ain't a fancy one, but I've used it on 2 cars and it works great.

Jimmy,

You have a PM

Thanks!

Did you check voltage to the clutch?

I did with the engine off, and the CCU on. 12.5 volts. I have not performed a continuity test on the clutch though. You can watch the engine an compressor run, then see the clutch slip, catch up, slip, slip some more, slip continually when hot. Belt is tight, no slipping or squealing there.

Hmm, we always used to fill a system with R-11 then let that flush around for a bit, then rinse it out with R-12... hey, what did we know? it was cheap and it removed complete burn out soot! great stuff. really messy, but it worked! to do that today would require several thousand dollars of R-11 (really high on the EPA's no use cfc list!) I suppose Isoheat or methanol /mineral spirits would work well too.