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  #16  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D View Post
My water temp stays on normal oper. temp(always below 100C) at idle, but the AC is suffering even with the electric aux. fan on. What I'm trying to accomplish really is an incresed air flow across the radiator and as well as the AC condenser. The fins of both condenser and radiator is clear, belt driven fan clutch and electric aux. fan are functional, but everytime I get stuck on a bumper to bumper traffic, I lose cold blowing AC but once I got out and start running at highway speed, cold air is back again, but of course it take longer time to recover when ambient temp is above 90F. This symptom suggests that inadequate air flow across the condenser is the culprit, but I'm still in the process of troubleshooting and elimination.
With the fan clutch, asking the fan to turn faster won't generate much additional airflow unless the engine temperature climbs well above 100C.

The situation with poor cooling capability at idle is quite typical of these vehicles when equipped with R-134. All of mine suffer from this malady. In fact, with the SD, the cooling is so poor that I'll usually give up and open the windows..........and give the engine and the cooling system a break. The vent temperature climbs dramatically at curb idle.

The only solution is a much larger and more efficient condenser (parallel flow) and a return to R-12 or one of the hydrocarbon refrigerants. I plan to do this to the SD when the next compressor failure happens...........

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  #17  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:16 PM
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Actually that is going to be my next stop. I'm going to rebuild the AC system, replace AC compressor, exp. valve and drier with new ones and I ordered some cans of HC refrigerants which should be shipped early this week.

I'm just trying to plan ahead explore other options and alternatives to improve AC cooling efficiency, and all I can come up right now is to increase the fan speed for additional air flow through the condenser.

R12 price is just so nauseatingly expensive and almost unreasonable, eventhough it is the solution to the problem.
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:21 PM
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Here's a screenshot of the manual.
Attached Thumbnails
1983 300SD OM617 alt belts, CORRECT SIZE-belts.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D View Post
R12 price is just so nauseatingly expensive and almost unreasonable, eventhough it is the solution to the problem.
There's always propane.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:26 PM
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funny, Dieselgiant sent me 1037 alternator belts, -- but my SD takes the 1000's

too much hassle to send them back- anybody want to trade a transmission for them?

seriously, ill mail them out half price if somebody needs a pair.
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  #21  
Old 07-03-2007, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D View Post
I think, I just hi-jacked the thread.

I apologize!

I didn't mean to.
Not to worry. My concern was a misinformation of a replacement part size, everywhere I have seen anything mentioned the 1035's. What I could have done is to remove them and take to AP store, they have a device that measures any belt. Yet I wanted to have on hand, so when I got time, I could swap 'em out. Yes, it did take five days, and a bent ratchet...not to mention much "colorful" language. Cruising smoothly.
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  #22  
Old 07-03-2007, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamitejacket View Post
funny, Dieselgiant sent me 1037 alternator belts, -- but my SD takes the 1000's

too much hassle to send them back- anybody want to trade a transmission for them?

seriously, ill mail them out half price if somebody needs a pair.
Did you have any issues in installing the 1000's? How did you get them over the alt pulleys? The bracket won't lift up high enough..........????
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  #23  
Old 07-03-2007, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The book calls for 1000's on the SD. But, I struggle to get them installed. In fact, they can't be installed unless the fan pulley is removed, install the belts on the sheave, and reinstall the pulley.

However, when tightened, the adjuster is right in the middle of the range.

I don't think the 1035's would fit due to lack of suitable travel on the adjuster.

It's a strange deal........never did figure out the issue.
I was able to get the P/S belt almost on, around engine pulley, half way on lip of P/S pulley, bumped engine with my handy trigger thing connected to correct screws on junction box, walked right on. May work if you're adjustment is in the middle with 1000's.
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  #24  
Old 07-03-2007, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I was able to get the P/S belt almost on, around engine pulley, half way on lip of P/S pulley, bumped engine with my handy trigger thing connected to correct screws on junction box, walked right on. May work if you're adjustment is in the middle with 1000's.
I think I was considering that, but, getting two belts to simultaneously jump onto the water pump pulley didn't appear likely. The really appeared too short to accomplish that.
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  #25  
Old 07-03-2007, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I think I was considering that, but, getting two belts to simultaneously jump onto the water pump pulley didn't appear likely. The really appeared too short to accomplish that.
Yeah, I don't think two at once would work. Maybe wedge one at a time and hand walk? Otherwise, perhaps belts too short? Did have to unduly manipulate old belts off. Having to deal with pulley seems excessively difficult. What book mentioned 1000's? My Haynes, albeit a 123, said 1035 on all 5 cylinder turbos, all years. I ordered my belts from ********, only one size displayed. Keep you're fingers on you're hands.
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  #26  
Old 07-03-2007, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Did you have any issues in installing the 1000's? How did you get them over the alt pulleys? The bracket won't lift up high enough..........????

i dont really remember any trouble getting the 1000's on, so i doubt they were difficult- IIRC i just loosened the alternator up, put them on as much as i could with my hands and used the power steering pulley to turn the motor enough to roll the belts on.
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  #27  
Old 07-03-2007, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dynamitejacket View Post
i dont really remember any trouble getting the 1000's on, so i doubt they were difficult- IIRC i just loosened the alternator up, put them on as much as i could with my hands and used the power steering pulley to turn the motor enough to roll the belts on.
Thanks.......but, this one won't allow the alternator to raise high enough to make that happen.

I don't expect to change them anytime soon so I'm not concerned about it.........but........something is definitely different on this engine.
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  #28  
Old 06-30-2013, 05:00 PM
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There's too much slack on my twin belts. The existing belt from the PO says 7400 Gates XL 11A1015. It measures 41" or 1041 mm outside diameter (with the stretch?). The diameter of the flywheel on my 85 300CD is about 7". Looks like I should get the 1000 mm belt....so confusing.
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:56 PM
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I ordered a set of 1035 Conti belts just to have on hand when needed, and of course, they were way too big. Got some no-name belts that were 1005 or so, and they worked fine.

Last edited by theo3000; 07-08-2013 at 04:53 PM.
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  #30  
Old 07-01-2013, 09:55 PM
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the STOCK belt for the CD should be 10x1035mm but it all depends on if anything has been changed from stock. only the SD's got the smaller water pump pulley...

is your fan plastic? since you got a 1015 on there, something may have changed, but I'm not sure what. gates belts are 9.5mm x whatever, so they will right away be too small for the car.

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