Hey guys,

So I heard an loud snap like sound when I closed the rear driver side door one day and now the window will not move up or down... I took the inner panel off and see the motor and arm work fine, up and down...
The arm is simply not attached to that lower rail anymore with that plastic slide thingy...

So can anyone show me some assembly schematics or tell me how it is correctly assembled?? Looks to me I simply need to put it back together.


Thanks guys!

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Thank you for all the help guys!

"Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker)
LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi.

www.handydo.joolo.com

at this link there is a rough drawing and parts blow up

http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/Drawings.aspx?bmid=117

hope it helps

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Dean

Thanks, yup looks like it is the regulator....

Well that mushroomed pin on the end of the regulator arm simply pulled through the plastic slide... I simply disassembled the regulator from the door and moved it around a little, then slid that part back together and now have her working again..

Definately a weak point though... No slamming that door.

Not worth buying a whole new regulator for, should be a part that is replaceable at the end of those arms...

Thanks again guys.

__________________
Thank you for all the help guys!

"Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker)
LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi.

www.handydo.joolo.com

Agreed.

That's why they sell a new sliding jaw for cheap.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1XL0VHEI024G00ZXKT&year=1984&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=O&part=Window+Regulator+Roller

Takes a bit of work to Dremel out the old mushroomed pin and peen the new one in place, but, it's only $5.00 or so.

Wow! Just what I was looking for! Thanks Brian.. You da man!

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Thank you for all the help guys!

"Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker)
LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi.

www.handydo.joolo.com

what sucks is its about a two hour job if you know what your doing. Longer if you don't. I had mine break on me, not fun.

Its been a bad year for windows on these 20+ year old cars. The mechanic that does the stuff I can't do had three of these plastic sliders break in one month.

Last week I had the spot weld break on the scissor hinge in the drivers door. I fixed it with two small bolts though. Its not perfect but it works.

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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

..........and it's a two weekend job if you try to peen the rivet on the arm without taking the plastic piece apart first............

gee it takes longer to take the skin off and the door then anything else.

The passenger side rear broke one day an hour after I fixed that the drivers side rear broke. I find the motors are usually a little loose and the scissor mechanism is a lil bent but usually just the plastic slide needs replacement. Kids not releasing the button is the biggest problem because these windows dont have torgue limiters something has to give

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commercial fisherman diesel in my blood in my boats trucks and Dear old Dad has had me drivin them since i got my first license in 1968
1986 300 SDL 427654
1999 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 225423
1986 300 SDL 287000 Dad's
1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)

I think some of those kids are pretty big..........

Ideally, you stop the window about 1/16" short of the top. The plastic slider will last forever.

I just bought a replacement sliding jaw thinking it would be a snap fit design. I don't understand the Dremel and peen process. What appears to be the old pin is flush with the reg. arm surface, but is still firmly in place. Theres no mushroom head that is apparent to Dremel away. So should I drill sequntially larger holes through the pin center til it pulls through?

Next, the new pin seems like it will require an awful lot of force to deform it enough to hold it in place. How do I avoid breaking the window when hitting?

Thanks.

If you live near a Pull a Part or similar do it your self junk yard, it is a 15 min job to pull the whole uinit out. I had this happen on my 90 350. Got the motor, crank assy and window for $20. They have a ton of 123 - 126 bodies in Charlotte, NC. I go there every once and a while and collect spare parts for my cars and store them. If your handy you can save lots of $$$$.