Broken Wire, Worn Parts Etc - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rmmagow · #1 07-07-2007, 01:59 AM

Car is an 83 300D being re-born for about the 5th time. I just adjusted the valves on the car. According to the "easy" chain stretch measurment method the chain is still really fine after 230K miles. Valves weren't bad. I can see two valve chain guides, neither of them wiggle at all and they look OK. Is there anything else related to chain control that I should check?
I broke the wire from the water temp sensor, the one near the vacuum lines leading to the EGR valve on the left side of the engine (facing engine). It is a black plastic push on round connector. Does the connector come apart somehow so the wire can be resoldered or do I just make my own new connector?
Second item. The black box on top of the valve cover. Can the guts be replaced? What is the part called? I know it has a lot to do with shifting and mine looks a little beat.
Third, the EGR valve, is it supposed to have a gasket? mine didn't and the hex screws holding it on weren't very tight. Will a form-a-gasket product work? If so, which type, color? I generally use Permatex for that type of work.
4th, the turbo. holding the shaft I can move it a very tiny bit up and down but it does not have any play back and forth. Is that OK? No excessive smoke or oil burning at any rate.
Part of my concern about the EGR and black box is my tranny is flaring and I want to see what I can improve before ripping everything out. The car is going back into daily service, 100 miles a day and I want it to run a little better. Thanks All.

Jeremy5848 · #2 07-07-2007, 02:36 AM

Yes, the water temp sensor connector comes apart. Hold the end that the wire goes into with your fingers, the other end with pliers, and twist. Then you can solder a new wire onto the pin.

The EGR is supposed to have a gasket. You could also cut a piece of thin sheet metal with screw holes only and simply block off the EGR. Essentially invisible and better for the engine to not have exhaust going into the intake.

Your turbo sounds OK. Oil under pressure forms the bearing and there's a fair amount of slop in the actual metal surfaces.

The black box I do not have.

Jeremy

rmmagow · #3 07-07-2007, 02:42 AM

Hi Jeremy, and thanks. glad I asked about the connector. I do think I'll block off the EGR. Probably should take off the intake and clean it too, from what I can see it's pretty gunked up.

Brian Carlton · #4 07-07-2007, 10:05 AM

Rich, we discussed removal of the entire EGR system before...........together with the 3-2 switches on the black box.

For some reason, you wish to keep them..........???

jim16671836 · #5 07-07-2007, 10:19 AM

The vacuum as far as I know has nothing to do with flaring but does help with the softness/harshness of the shifting... I think you should try to adjust your bowden cable tighter... just try about 2 turns with the adjuster and try it out... also try shifting the gears manually from 1st to 2nd-3-4 etc and see what happens... might not have any flare that way??? also try wide open from dead stop to about 60 and see if it still flares... sometimes the transmission at regular speeds will shift so slow that it gives the presssure time to bleed off and you get flaring... report back here with your findings.