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  #16  
Old 07-09-2007, 11:42 AM
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sounds to me like you are experiencing warm oil low viscosity issues. as has been stated, the x30W oil is insufficient in diesel motors. I would bump up to standard rotella 15W40 and see if the noise disappears. if so at the next oil change, I would start using M1 5W40 D&T oil or Delvac1 (which is the same thing, just harder to find) or if you want a low cost partial synthetic, the blue bottle rotella 5W40 is pretty good and low cost Diesel rated oil.

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  #17  
Old 07-09-2007, 12:12 PM
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It would be nice if your next oil change was due now. As a valid test you could put in the same oil as your friend is using. Providing it is a good diesel rated oil. If all is well in theory your engine should sound simular.
Is your oil cooler good and hot after a good run? If the oil bypass valve in the filter canister was not opening to allow oil flow through the cooler your oil might be thinner as it would be hotter. Engine temperature might be a little higher as well. Since it is then going to absorb greater heat from the hotter oil. Unusual failure with these cars but possible. Any thermal control device can fail with time and use. Your indicated oil presure sounds totally normal.
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2007, 12:37 PM
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Non diesel rated oil suffers from two problems, one is soot loading, which make the oil too thick, and viscosity break down from the shearing pressures, both of which means less lubrication forthe moving parts, which then leads to engine failure. Change that oil and filter now and use a good diesel rated oil as adviced.
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2007, 04:04 PM
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with your engine that hot...

I would look into replacing the thermostat, flushing the radiator, especially if it has sat/not been driven a lot in the past. Better cooling will obviously dissipate heat far more efficiently and keep the engine alive longer, improve oil viscosity and cooling as well. Also power wash out the oil cooler and radiator and check your fan clutch.

It is a weird thing...I was using an after market t-stat and I had noisy lifters and was running consistently hot, around 90 at freeway speeds. I switched to a MB OE t-stat and power washed the radiator and oil cooler, I put in Redline "water wetter" into the rad fluid as well as replaced the fan clutch.

We drove 1200 this past week as far as Moncton NB to Boston and the temp never go to 90 deg even on long hill climbs at 70-80 mph and the car was soooo quiet and smooth. I think engine temp has much to do with engine noise, but thats just my $.02.

And don't wait to change your engine oil. Soot is like little grains of sand in the combustion chambers and without the proper diesel rated oil, think of running the engine with sand in the oil. I would not use anything light in the summertime. I only switch to a lighter synthetic oil in the winter months to promote easy start ups. You most likely will not gain any benefit from a synthetic oil except faster start ups. A hi-quality dino-oil should be fine.
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Last edited by DubMutant; 07-09-2007 at 04:10 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2007, 05:39 PM
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Have you checked the oil cooler? Maybe it is plugged or the thermal valve in the oil filter housing isn't tuning on and diverting oil to the cooler. That would make the oil run much hotter than it should, even if the engine temp isn't running quite so hot. Extra hot oil like that probably would thin enough to give lifter noise.

Maybe measure the temp of the oil cooler and hoses leading to/from it.
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  #21  
Old 07-10-2007, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubMutant View Post
I would look into replacing the thermostat, flushing the radiator, especially if it has sat/not been driven a lot in the past. Better cooling will obviously dissipate heat far more efficiently and keep the engine alive longer, improve oil viscosity and cooling as well. Also power wash out the oil cooler and radiator and check your fan clutch.

It is a weird thing...I was using an after market t-stat and I had noisy lifters and was running consistently hot, around 90 at freeway speeds. I switched to a MB OE t-stat and power washed the radiator and oil cooler, I put in Redline "water wetter" into the rad fluid as well as replaced the fan clutch.

We drove 1200 this past week as far as Moncton NB to Boston and the temp never go to 90 deg even on long hill climbs at 70-80 mph and the car was soooo quiet and smooth. I think engine temp has much to do with engine noise, but thats just my $.02.

And don't wait to change your engine oil. Soot is like little grains of sand in the combustion chambers and without the proper diesel rated oil, think of running the engine with sand in the oil. I would not use anything light in the summertime. I only switch to a lighter synthetic oil in the winter months to promote easy start ups. You most likely will not gain any benefit from a synthetic oil except faster start ups. A hi-quality dino-oil should be fine.
I think we're on the right track here, I've tried oil stuff and now its time to look at cooling system, my friends car is a good comparison, we went to get our cars detailed today and after shampooing the carpet they kept his car running for a long time with the heat on and his cars temp never went over 80 whereas in my case I had to stop sooner coz I was getting over 110 within 10 minutes and engine noise was not nice.

Driving the 2 cars you can tell as if this huge weight is holding my car back, the response is not the same.

Just annoys me that my low mileage pristine pricey diesel is really screwed up where as my friend high mileage very well used low cost diesel runs better than mine

So first thing tomorrow, new coolant + redline water wetter goes in and will have the oil cooler looked at as well. Will drive for a few days and see how it turns out and then change the oil, time to put some real diesel rated oil in. Will keep you all posted.

I really appreciate everyone's input, it helps a lot. Thanks and keep it coming if there's more.

Atif
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2007, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atif View Post
I think we're on the right track here, I've tried oil stuff and now its time to look at cooling system, my friends car is a good comparison, we went to get our cars detailed today and after shampooing the carpet they kept his car running for a long time with the heat on and his cars temp never went over 80 whereas in my case I had to stop sooner coz I was getting over 110 within 10 minutes and engine noise was not nice.

Driving the 2 cars you can tell as if this huge weight is holding my car back, the response is not the same.

Just annoys me that my low mileage pristine pricey diesel is really screwed up where as my friend high mileage very well used low cost diesel runs better than mine

So first thing tomorrow, new coolant + redline water wetter goes in and will have the oil cooler looked at as well. Will drive for a few days and see how it turns out and then change the oil, time to put some real diesel rated oil in. Will keep you all posted.

I really appreciate everyone's input, it helps a lot. Thanks and keep it coming if there's more.

Atif
You probably know this, but make sure you use the correct coolant. MB or Zerex G-5.

Chris
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  #23  
Old 07-10-2007, 05:36 PM
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Have you burped the cooling system?
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2007, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patbob View Post
Have you burped the cooling system?
How do we do that??

Had the coolant replaced with geniune MB yellow stuff. Also found out I had bad fan clutch, replaced that as well as thermostat, took the car out and wow what a difference but one freeway trip ruined all excitement, temp went up and lifter noise came back etc....

Forgot to power wash oil cooler/radiator, oil cooler checked to be ok.

The game plan now is to get the front power washed, the car came from New Mexico so more dust etc I think...will see the outcome if no change I'll get the oil changed in a week, although its not due but I'll keep experimenting, not a quiter
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2007, 12:13 PM
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Is your transmission fluid level correct?

Over-filling of the tranny can cause air to form in the ATF and make the transmission overheat and therefore force more heat thru the radiator.
Check that out too.

Change the oil and let us know what happens.
Did you add Redline Water Wetter?
If you run the heat on the freeway does the engine temp drop considerably? If so, it may be time for a new radiator due to loss of internal cooling exchange from corrosion and sediment build-up.
Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
Ben
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2007, 02:11 PM
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**update**

Guys thanks for all your input, I think we fixed the issue at hand.

Power washing the radiator/oil cooler [actually cleaning/shampooing the entire engine] after of course trying and spending a lot of money as posted earlier changed the car completely. Fixed a number of other issues that were not normal, like sticky trottle assembly needed to push very hard and jerky transmission etc...after washing smoother than before shifting but still a little goofy but wow the accelerator pedal is like silk now..

IT IS A DIFFERENT CAR ALL OF A SUDDEN I have been smiling since yesterday.....

City driving absolutely no lifter noise [with non diesel rated crap 20W50 oil/auto-rx detergent, will be replacing this bad stuff with some good diesel rated stuff this saturday], temp stays put just a notch over 80.

Freeway driving, car is nimble fast and smooth, nothing holding it back, no audible lifter noise and temp guage fluctuates between 80 and 95. When I entered the underground parking at work this morning i noticed one of the lifters making some noise, between closed walls I could hear it, parked the car reved the engine and the lifter went quite for a bit and idling brought it back....so this tells me the bad oil with detergent in it is not what it wants etc so changing oil this saturday.

Over all I'm very happy and finally can start enjoying the car, once again thank you all for your input, without the brilliant ideas here at the forums I would've ended up spended big bucks at the stealership or would've ended up selling an otherwise pristine car at a low price.
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  #27  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:01 PM
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Another update guys, the car is still heating up more than normal, it started going over 100 in the last few days although its not that warm here these days, specially when I drive it hard and if the AC is on and on the freeway as well.

As one of you suggested, I did this test today on the freeway while the temp guage showing close to 100 I turned the heat on full blast and the temp dropped to a little over 80 within seconds and then gradually climbed back up to 90 but not more. Cooling system wise I have new fan clutch, new OE MB T-Stat, fresh MB Coolant and power washed the rad and oil cooler.

Do I need a new radiator?
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  #28  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:07 PM
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When you run the A/C, the radiator gets treated to pre-heated air. How is the temp with the A/C off? You could have a waterpump getting weak, or you could have a bad radiator/expansion tank cap not allowing the system to pressurize fully.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #29  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubMutant View Post
Over-filling of the tranny can cause air to form in the ATF and make the transmission overheat and therefore force more heat thru the radiator.
Check that out too.

Change the oil and let us know what happens.
Did you add Redline Water Wetter?
If you run the heat on the freeway does the engine temp drop considerably? If so, it may be time for a new radiator due to loss of internal cooling exchange from corrosion and sediment build-up.
Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
Ben
Transmission fluid level is ok but one of the cooling hoses is leaking a bit. Haven't added Redline water wetter, is it really that good the additive I mean? If radiator is the problem then don't think Redline will do much.

How much can it cost to replace the radiator?

A
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  #30  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
When you run the A/C, the radiator gets treated to pre-heated air. How is the temp with the A/C off? You could have a waterpump getting weak, or you could have a bad radiator/expansion tank cap not allowing the system to pressurize fully.
Even with the A/C off if I drive it hard or stop and go traffic the temp goes over 105.

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