Scary stuff. I had the dealer install an "IWIS" (german OEM brand) chain on my 617 at 213k....its now at 278k with 0 issues and barely 1/2 a degree of stretch. :D The original chain that was removed had like NINE degrees of stretch. :eek:

My 1949 IH Farmall tractor has those kind of seal fixing sleeves available for the same purpose. I put one on about 15 years ago... I thought it was very nice engineering to think of that for future rebuilds. Sure beats trying to grind or sand ... and when something has gouged it that is impossible... just take down low enough on injury to get the sleeve on.. red loctite it on .. go about the rest of the job.

Sorry, I meant what is THIS picture: (It's the last picture in the series in one of the first few posts with the pictures of the failing chain.)

A loose piece of the damaged chain, retrieved with a magnet.

Ah, I see it now. Thanks. (I still think it looks like a UFO!)

cell is now slightly more nervous about the slight ticking noise he's been noticing lately...

Roy,
I think auto grade morphine is needed for pain relief, not prozac !! :D

Recycled for new members.
 

Recycled
for new members.

New to the forum and this is my first post.

I have a '91 350SDL TurboDiesel that has picked up a tick in what sounds like the top end. I have the injectors out and thought one of them was 'nailing.' Had them tested and they act almost new. So my testing will continue on to the valve lifters.

The reason I posted to this thread is because I picked up a new timing chain for the engine and have a question. I have read that the master link provided with the chain should not be used to run the engine. The manuals saw to only use the 'clip' type of link to snake the new chain into the engine then replace it with a peened master link.

The chain is a IWIS brand and labeled as OEM. The master link uses two 'E' clips for the connection and has a center link supplied. From this thread I get that the JWIS is a good product. My question is; can I use the 'E' clipped mater link to run the engine or do I need to but a peened style master link?

Peened master link is only safe way to go.

Kinda figured that was the answer. I'm putting an order together for head shields and return hose for the injectors today and will add a peened style master link.

Thanks.

Have you checked chain stretch? If it is not stretched I would not touch it.

Also a tick on an OM601/602 or 603 engine is usually a collapsed hydraulic lifter. My OM601 was ticking all the time until I changed those out. Now it is quiet and smooth.

A collapsed lifter was my first thoughts. Did some research and got informed about 'injector nailing.' Flushed the injectors with SeaFoam with no improvement. Pulled the injectors and had them tested, all are in great shape.

Pulled the valve cover and the chain was loose between the sprocket and the chain guide. Pulled the tensioner and checked it, but it was almost dry as the engine had set for three days and it leaked down. I got a good deal on the chain so I took it. The one that is in the engine looks almost new but looks can be deceiving. Do you have a link to chain stretching? I'd really don't want to change it if I can help it.

Next step is to check all of the lifters. I have a new one in hand to replace what I hope is just one bad lifter.

Thanks for your help.

EDIT: found an article on checking chain stretch. Rather simple. Thanks again.

FYI
 

I edited an earlier post to make this clear.

Clarification: IWIS brand Timing Chain was installed to replace the failed junk.

His vehicle is still going strong.

Seafoam is pretty much recommended for burning off carbon. Most of the old timers here run Diesel Purge to try and clean injectors and fuel delivery systems.