Hello all-
A few weeks back I started purusing this site looking for advice when it comes to buying a new old MB. At one point I came across a thread listing ten things you should test when looking at a used MB diesel, (including things like removing the oil cap to test for blow-by while the motor is running). Now that i have narrowed in a 79' 300td, for the life of me, I have searched and searched trying to find that thread again with no luck... Any chance any one of you guys might have seen it and could send me a link to the thread...

I am selling my ' 74 VW bus for the MB, to go diesel! Wondering if i am going to be floored by the new acceleration!

There is a list for the 124 diesel. Not much of it would apply to the car you are looking at.

Chris

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Yes you will, my 80TD will run circles around a VW bus. Blow by is partially created by worn rings etc. The tea kettle test lets you know how much blow by there is. If the cap has problems staying on perhaps you should keep looking.

Another thing to check is the bushings on the front end. These cars require special compressors to get the front springs off (go figure the rear you just need a jack).

Jack holes are a good spot to see rust. The older non turbo models use either different comp metals or primer or something and tend to rust alot more (your 79).

(for turbo) Another thing to look for is the ALDA if it has been modified. I don't think I would buy one with a sardine canned ALDA screw and I buy some real specimens.

With the engine running check the primary filter and look for bubbling or worse black fuel. (If you want to look like a pro read up on lifting the hood all the way up).

There is alot of other stuff I look at in any car. If the owner insists on riding with me in the car I tend to get the truth out of them before we get back from the test ride

If you did your own work on your bus I think you will be quite at home with a diesel mb.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

If by td you mean a wagon, don't they have the hydraulic suspension in the back? if so, feel how hard it rides. Buckboard ride in back could mean bad Nitro spheres. You want Pull the floor mats and look for rust. Check the condition of all the rubber (like on the front and back windows). Old rubber tends to leak
Oh, and if you wanna make a bus go fast, drop a Porsche motor in it. I put an 80 hp 914 motor in my '75 camper bus and was amazed at the difference.

I can make my own list:

1) Rust - hood, underhood, battery tray, floorboards, rocker panels, spare tire well, wheel well lips
2) Blowby under the oil cap
3) AC working?
4) Check the drain holes to see if the car has been inside or outside
5) Dash cracks, wood peeling, beaten seats
6) Gauge cluster original or replaced - look at gauge buttons that hold the needles
7) Signs of a leaking interior - smell, discolored carpets front/rear
8) Check all electrical - windows, sunroof, etc.
9) Check tie rods, shocks, steering play
10) Drive it up to 70 and check for vibrations, pound the brakes while not holding steering wheel
11) Tread on the tires
12) Find out history - mechanical and ownership - and meld that information with the car's condition

If all looks good and it's a one-owner, low-mileage car, I usually end up buying it. I now have two just like that.

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- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600

Also...

13. Transmission slipping?

Thanks, I appreciate all the advice. Any reason in particular you would avoid 1979 W123's other than rust issues? (I dont know yet, I havent found the car yet) Assuming everything looked good, and I know everyone has their own opinion, but the general consensus is that the 617 engine is pretty solid, parts are pretty plentiful, fairly easy to work on, just slightly underpowered? (Bear in mind my last car was a breadbox.)

Just curious why you are specifically looking for a 79, the 77-81 non-turbos are practically identical, as are the 82-85 turbos. I prefer the turbo, but either 617 is a very durable engine, the automatic transmissions have a tendency to get flakey around 250K miles. If you are not familiar with these cars, consider a pre-purchase inspection before making an offer.

I prefer the AC systems and the turbo of the later w123s.

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- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600

where are you located? my 79 is sortof for sale, PM if you are interested.
from driving the 79, I have to agree with the others. a turbo would be nicer. it's great in town, and on interstates, but the inbetween areas it does not shine. hard to go from 50-70 on a steep hill. but it handles great, drives great and handles heavy loads no problem. if you live in a very hilly area, forgo the 79 and get an 81 or newer with the turbo. my daughter loves the car, and I have driven it for nearly a year without issues. took it up the mountains with a good load in it, and had no issues. maintained 60ish up the inclines no problem did 90ish as well.
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!