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  #16  
Old 07-25-2007, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
The back end lifting is normal for independent suspension equipped cars.

Is it worse on ANY turns, or specific ones?

My car rolls foward or backward (depending on selection of course) at idle
It's bad any time I'm turning after stopping or slowing to almost stopping, but I'd say it's worse turning right.

Glad the back end thing is normal. I read something about the differential mounts or bushings being bad if it squats, nothing on if it lifts (now I know why).

I'm in Columbus, OH
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2007, 09:32 AM
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bump.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2007, 09:39 PM
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I did the TRANS-X today. The car is a bit sluggish going from a start, but it is going (ie it's in first) when going straight. I still have the problem turning, mostly turning right. When I slow down coming up to a light, there's a hard shift/clunk downshifting to 1st. So, I think it's a problem with the 1-2 and 2-1 shift.
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2007, 12:36 AM
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If you can mangage to drain and fill the T/C, try it. I used to have an old comet that when low on ATF would do the exact same thing you describe (slip/grab around corners). The fluid would run away from the pickup point when it got too low and the cornering forces pushed on it. Make sure that the fluid level is exactly right.
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2007, 08:52 AM
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Fluid level is correct. I'll drain the TC when I drain out the fluid/TRANS-X mix.

I've seen 26mm and 27mm for the socket to turn the crankshaft in order to drain the TC. Does anyone know for sure which one it is? I have to buy a deep socket and want to make sure I get the right one.
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  #21  
Old 08-01-2007, 06:03 PM
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Reading more, driving more.
TRANS-X seems to have taken care of the 'kicking down the road' problem mostly.
Still have the shifting issue when turning. It'll go if I'm feather light on the throttle (dangerous when turning onto a main road), but even 1/4 throttle causes the slip, which is followed by a hard shift.

I loosened the bowden cable a little bit based on threads I searched, but it doesn't seem to have done much (I didn't turn it a whole bunch because it's not really the timing of the shift that's the problem).

I read this post about the ALDA affecting shifting:
ALDA Adjust and Hard Shifting

Should I move to the ALDA next?
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2007, 10:22 AM
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tank,

27 mm deep well is what you need for the crank bolt.

Dont mess with the ALDA. What you need to do is mess with the vacuum system first.

Can you review what you have done to the vacuum system?

Can you give more details as to what the shift qualities are for each gear?

You have a long, long ways to go before condemning this tranny.

Fill in this table:

Min forward throttle from a dead stop

1-2 Shift quality (flare, no shift, firm, bang, perfect etc.) RPM of shift:
2-3 Shift quality: RPM of shift:
3-4 Shift quality: RPM of shift:

Ill help you as best as I can, as others (Brian Carlton mostly) have helped me get mine back from the dead.


-dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Last edited by dieseldan44; 08-02-2007 at 10:30 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2007, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
tank,

27 mm deep well is what you need for the crank bolt.
thanks

Quote:
Theres a lot going on, and I haven't read through the entire thread. Dont mess with the ALDA yet. What you need to do is mess with the vacuum system first.

Can you review what you have done to the vacuum system?
Sure. Nothing . Someone else removed the vacuum valve levers on the valve covers, but apparently I don't need them.
The only vacuum problem I've ever had was the no shut off because I knocked a connection loose when washing the engine.
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2007, 10:32 AM
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tank - I edited my earlier reply - take a look and update your post.

Do you have a MityVac? If not, go get the Silverline MityVac kit at sears etc.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2007, 05:08 PM
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
tank,

Can you give more details as to what the shift qualities are for each gear?

You have a long, long ways to go before condemning this tranny.

Fill in this table:

Min forward throttle from a dead stop

1-2 Shift quality (flare, no shift, firm, bang, perfect etc.) RPM of shift:
When starting and going straight, a bit of flare, pretty good shift. RPM's . No tachometer. When turning, it is with a bang, unless I'm very light on the throttle. Down shift when slowing to a stop also bangs.
2-3 Shift quality: RPM of shift: No flare, good shift. Might be a little early, but again, no tach.
3-4 Shift quality: RPM of shift: Seems perfect. I have no problems once I'm over 35 mph

Ill help you as best as I can, as others (Brian Carlton mostly) have helped me get mine back from the dead.


-dd
Much appreciated.
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  #26  
Old 08-03-2007, 12:58 PM
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Time to verify your vacuum system

tank,

I do not know what to make of the turning phenomenon. Have you checked your steering components like your tie rods etc for excess wear? Have you checked out your rear diff mount?

Lets work on the vacuum system first and foremost. Its probably doing OK if you have good shifts 2-3 and up. But lets do some initial checks.

Do you have that mityvac?

Just to give you hope, there is a kit you can buy and install that will softer that 1-2 shift. Its an update from Mercedes. But, thats a bit off.

It doesnt sound to me like you have anything close to a dead transmission.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #27  
Old 08-03-2007, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
tank,

I do not know what to make of the turning phenomenon. Have you checked your steering components like your tie rods etc for excess wear? Have you checked out your rear diff mount?
How/Why would they affect th shift?

Quote:
Lets work on the vacuum system first and foremost. Its probably doing OK if you have good shifts 2-3 and up. But lets do some initial checks.

Do you have that mityvac?
I'll be going tomorrow to Sears. I ordered the dashpot from fastlane just 'cause. Can't hurt to change it.

Quote:
Just to give you hope, there is a kit you can buy and install that will softer that 1-2 shift. Its an update from Mercedes. But, thats a bit off.

It doesnt sound to me like you have anything close to a dead transmission.

dd
I hope the kit's cheap (or I don't get that far), I'm getting pretty close to my limit for amount of $$ I'm willing to put in.


I don't think the mechanics did anything but drive it around the block and charge me $80. It's not a pretty car (someone tried to steal my star so it's off, dash is cracked to $###, pretty rusted, dull gray paint job) and I'm sure they just didn't want to work on it. I'm pretty disappointed with the shop. It was recommended in the shops in OH thread and when I first went there 2 years ago (right before I moved here), they were great. Now they seem like any stealership only w/o the name.
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  #28  
Old 08-03-2007, 05:12 PM
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tank,

You reported that the 1-2 shift was worse when turning. This means to me that the extra force from the shift may be causing something in the driveline or steering system to clunk. Not a bad thing to check out. Look for torn grease boots. Also check flex discs while you are under there.

I think the 1-2 band kit is in $100 range. You may not need it, we have a ways to go.

Glad to hear you are going to sears for the MityVac. The Silverline kit is great. If I have a moment tonight Ill start typing out the procedure. I have been meaning to write up a general guide anyways.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2007, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
tank,

You reported that the 1-2 shift was worse when turning. This means to me that the extra force from the shift may be causing something in the driveline or steering system to clunk. Not a bad thing to check out. Look for torn grease boots. Also check flex discs while you are under there.
Will do. I'll check them tomorrow. Flex discs are on the diff, right? Also, I forgot to mention w/the 1-2 when turning, if I'm on the throttle at all, the engine revs, but the car's not in any gear (it doesn't go anywhere). Then I get the clunk into gear and it starts pulling again.

I appreciate your help on this, it's occupying my whole brain as I'm waffling between trying to fix it and cutting my losses.
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  #30  
Old 08-04-2007, 03:03 PM
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OK, after recovering from sticker shock, Mity Vac is in the house.
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