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#16
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Quote:
Glad the back end thing is normal. I read something about the differential mounts or bushings being bad if it squats, nothing on if it lifts (now I know why). I'm in Columbus, OH
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1984 300TD |
#17
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bump.
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1984 300TD |
#18
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I did the TRANS-X today. The car is a bit sluggish going from a start, but it is going (ie it's in first) when going straight. I still have the problem turning, mostly turning right. When I slow down coming up to a light, there's a hard shift/clunk downshifting to 1st. So, I think it's a problem with the 1-2 and 2-1 shift.
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1984 300TD |
#19
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If you can mangage to drain and fill the T/C, try it. I used to have an old comet that when low on ATF would do the exact same thing you describe (slip/grab around corners). The fluid would run away from the pickup point when it got too low and the cornering forces pushed on it. Make sure that the fluid level is exactly right.
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1983 300SD Rusty, Loud and Proud |
#20
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Fluid level is correct. I'll drain the TC when I drain out the fluid/TRANS-X mix.
I've seen 26mm and 27mm for the socket to turn the crankshaft in order to drain the TC. Does anyone know for sure which one it is? I have to buy a deep socket and want to make sure I get the right one.
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1984 300TD |
#21
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Reading more, driving more.
TRANS-X seems to have taken care of the 'kicking down the road' problem mostly. Still have the shifting issue when turning. It'll go if I'm feather light on the throttle (dangerous when turning onto a main road), but even 1/4 throttle causes the slip, which is followed by a hard shift. I loosened the bowden cable a little bit based on threads I searched, but it doesn't seem to have done much (I didn't turn it a whole bunch because it's not really the timing of the shift that's the problem). I read this post about the ALDA affecting shifting: ALDA Adjust and Hard Shifting Should I move to the ALDA next?
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1984 300TD |
#22
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tank,
27 mm deep well is what you need for the crank bolt. Dont mess with the ALDA. What you need to do is mess with the vacuum system first. Can you review what you have done to the vacuum system? Can you give more details as to what the shift qualities are for each gear? You have a long, long ways to go before condemning this tranny. Fill in this table: Min forward throttle from a dead stop 1-2 Shift quality (flare, no shift, firm, bang, perfect etc.) RPM of shift: 2-3 Shift quality: RPM of shift: 3-4 Shift quality: RPM of shift: Ill help you as best as I can, as others (Brian Carlton mostly) have helped me get mine back from the dead. -dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car Last edited by dieseldan44; 08-02-2007 at 10:30 AM. |
#23
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thanks
Quote:
The only vacuum problem I've ever had was the no shut off because I knocked a connection loose when washing the engine.
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1984 300TD |
#24
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tank - I edited my earlier reply - take a look and update your post.
Do you have a MityVac? If not, go get the Silverline MityVac kit at sears etc.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#25
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Thanks
Quote:
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1984 300TD |
#26
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Time to verify your vacuum system
tank,
I do not know what to make of the turning phenomenon. Have you checked your steering components like your tie rods etc for excess wear? Have you checked out your rear diff mount? Lets work on the vacuum system first and foremost. Its probably doing OK if you have good shifts 2-3 and up. But lets do some initial checks. Do you have that mityvac? Just to give you hope, there is a kit you can buy and install that will softer that 1-2 shift. Its an update from Mercedes. But, thats a bit off. It doesnt sound to me like you have anything close to a dead transmission. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#27
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Quote:
Quote:
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I don't think the mechanics did anything but drive it around the block and charge me $80. It's not a pretty car (someone tried to steal my star so it's off, dash is cracked to $###, pretty rusted, dull gray paint job) and I'm sure they just didn't want to work on it. I'm pretty disappointed with the shop. It was recommended in the shops in OH thread and when I first went there 2 years ago (right before I moved here), they were great. Now they seem like any stealership only w/o the name.
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1984 300TD |
#28
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tank,
You reported that the 1-2 shift was worse when turning. This means to me that the extra force from the shift may be causing something in the driveline or steering system to clunk. Not a bad thing to check out. Look for torn grease boots. Also check flex discs while you are under there. I think the 1-2 band kit is in $100 range. You may not need it, we have a ways to go. Glad to hear you are going to sears for the MityVac. The Silverline kit is great. If I have a moment tonight Ill start typing out the procedure. I have been meaning to write up a general guide anyways. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#29
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Quote:
I appreciate your help on this, it's occupying my whole brain as I'm waffling between trying to fix it and cutting my losses.
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1984 300TD |
#30
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OK, after recovering from sticker shock, Mity Vac is in the house.
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1984 300TD |
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