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  #46  
Old 07-17-2007, 11:00 PM
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Most states have a 1-800 hotline to report smoking cars.

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  #47  
Old 07-18-2007, 09:48 AM
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I have run hundreds of thousands of miles on WVO. At least on IDI engines, my opinion is that if you run a properly heated 2 tank system with properly de-watered and filtered WVO, you engine will last LONGER on WVO than on diesel.

I haven't run much WMO, but my gut feeling is no more than 10% and you would probably be OK but it should be filtered to 2 microns or better since the contaminants are a lot more abrasive than french fry bits.
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  #48  
Old 07-18-2007, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojool View Post
apparently this is a requirement of being in teh OBK crew

If it is, I will turn mine in.
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  #49  
Old 07-23-2007, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
That's an easy one, ULSD meets the ASTM specs for diesel fuel (including lubricity), which is exactly what these engines were designed to run on (not peanut oil, coal dust, or anything else).

Guys, if you want to run WVO, used oil, or whatever, in your engine to save a few dollars, have a ball; it's your engine and your money. Just don't try to tell the rest of us that it's good for the engine, at best you haven't done any significant damage so far. I would recommend using commercial BD that meets the current MB recommendations and appropriate specs (currently B5, I believe), beyond that you are on your own.

I just ran across someone posting about an article in STAR.

Star magazine, Jul/Aug 2007 'New Diesel Fuel and Old Diesels" by George Murphy pp 84-86


There is some stuff about "ULSD does not meet the minimum lubrication requirements for even new engines much less our old ones"

The post was from LUVMBDiesels.

Here is a link to the thread.

Diesenol??

They also had things to say about vegetable oils.

..." Diesel engines with injection pumps operating on used cooking oil or similar substances are at risk due to lack of consistency and testing to ASTM or API standards. There are simply no standards for these oils because of the variablility of the sources and owners treatment of these 'fuels' Some owners are simply filtering used cooking oil obtained at restaurants and using it to run their diesels. While this appears to be an alternate solution to the increasing cost of commercially refined diesel fuel, the lack of lubricity information makes such a practice risky considering the cost of an injection pump."


They are saying that the variability is the problem and how people are processing used oils.

Not the oil itself.

And what about virgin, non used oils ?

I just do not see how it is possible that ULSD can have anywhere near the lubricating properties of vegetable oils.

So, what meets MB's recommendation for our old cars ???

ULSD or veggie oil ??

The winner is ??

veggie oil !!!

New oil, and or well processed used oil.

So aparently it is not "an easy one" as you said in your post.

And maybe your comment about "Just don't try to tell the rest of us that it's good for the engine, at best you haven't done any significant damage so far."

Should be turned back around to you.


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Last edited by RichC; 07-23-2007 at 10:34 AM.
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  #50  
Old 07-23-2007, 12:55 PM
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wow, excellent post with lovely facts/links. i am enjoying this discussion very much. thanks a lot fellas!
wish there was a site where we could see some acid/lubricity test results, etc.
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  #51  
Old 07-23-2007, 01:42 PM
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Again, more heated debate.

I'll keep my entries limited to first-hand knowledge.

24,000 on my 83 since I purchased Sept 2006. The first 8,000 on homebrewed BD100. The next 16,000 on 90%WVO/10%RUG blend. Still running strong.

I experimented with about 5% WMO briefly. It ran fine, but did smoke more than I liked, and seemed to continue to smoke long after I thought the WMO should be out of the system.

Precautions I take:
I filter my WVO to 5 microns. I learned first-hand that larger than that clogs the vehicle filters very quickly. I have a regular supply, and use the oil from my Japanese restaurant first. It's canola, and they change it very often. It still looks fresh when I get it. Canola seems to have the lowest viscosity in the winter months. When it's very cold in NE, I boost the RUG percentage to 20.

I only pour off the top of the jugs I collect. When I get near the sludge as I'm pouring, I stop and pour the rest off into my BD brewing tank. I figure any significant water or other contaminants will come out in the wash process of making BD.
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  #52  
Old 07-23-2007, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark3542 View Post
Again, more heated debate.

I'll keep my entries limited to first-hand knowledge.

24,000 on my 83 since I purchased Sept 2006. The first 8,000 on homebrewed BD100. The next 16,000 on 90%WVO/10%RUG blend. Still running strong.

I experimented with about 5% WMO briefly. It ran fine, but did smoke more than I liked, and seemed to continue to smoke long after I thought the WMO should be out of the system.

Precautions I take:
I filter my WVO to 5 microns. I learned first-hand that larger than that clogs the vehicle filters very quickly. I have a regular supply, and use the oil from my Japanese restaurant first. It's canola, and they change it very often. It still looks fresh when I get it. Canola seems to have the lowest viscosity in the winter months. When it's very cold in NE, I boost the RUG percentage to 20.

I only pour off the top of the jugs I collect. When I get near the sludge as I'm pouring, I stop and pour the rest off into my BD brewing tank. I figure any significant water or other contaminants will come out in the wash process of making BD.
This is great information and conforms some of what I was testing. I put Canola and Soybean into a freezer. Soybean was solid, canola was very liquid. Not that I would want it that thick in my tank so the cutting with 20% sounds about right. I too pour off the sludge, typically about 2" off of the bottom. Presently I am just burning it in my burn barrel. I am not set up for BD yet.

Typically when I get oil, it comes in a root beer color, but clear. If I see any cloudiness I dont use it. Just one pail full of cloudy so far in my collections.

You dont get any soybean oil? I am afraid to use soybean as it gets colder.
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1979 300D
1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles
1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car)
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1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000
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Club Car Golf Cart 36V
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1967 Mustang 289 (First Car)
Fiat 124TC
1975 Honda CVCC
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  #53  
Old 07-23-2007, 05:23 PM
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i just found a source of veggie that has been treated nicely and has not ever cooked any meat. thing is it's soybean (refined). but i'm running a hot as hell coolant heated 2nd tank and HOH to the engine bay, heated (coolant wrapped) filter, and then a veg therm heater....why would the 'gelling' matter even concern me if i'm heating that much? feedback?

thanks
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  #54  
Old 07-23-2007, 05:50 PM
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Mojool -- you're doing it right, and I think it doesn't matter what kind of oil you're putting in there. Just make sure it's up to temperature before you flip over to that tank and you should be good to go. Also be sure your lines are cleared/purged before you shut down.

Cheers, John
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  #55  
Old 07-23-2007, 08:00 PM
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Guys,

May i remind people that this is a WMO thread (as many of it before it has mutated into a SVO/WVO/VVO discussion!).

I will repeat that WMO is a fine combustible if you follow the same type of precautions than WVO or for that matter even VVO.

The stuff must be dewatered, pH adjusted (read deacided) filtered hot at 0.5 µm (not 5 not 10 microns but 0.5!!!!!) and injected in the engine hot (80ºC, not unlike WVO or VVO). This a time consuming, and not quite that cheap process!!

These steps are pretty much equivalent to refining it back into raw SAE30 oil (actually the refining would almost be a distillation). Then and only then you can use it as combustible (remark that these are the same steps that you are supposed to follow with industrial burners; although few do it and that why industrial burners are smoky messes!!!)
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  #56  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorblue92 View Post
well i for one am gonna keep putting #2 diesel in my car just the way mercedes says to
Where do you find this #2 diesel that conforms to Mercedes standards for 1977 vehicles ?

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  #57  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichC View Post
Where do you find this #2 diesel that conforms to Mercedes standards for 1977 vehicles ?
Any fuel station that sells diesel.
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  #58  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:37 PM
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This is done in some engines.

Cummins has (or at least did) an option where a VERY small amount was drawn out of the sump into the fuel intake. The idea being that even a 0.1% gain in mileage would be money in the bank. BTW NOT the Dodge Ram mini Cummins.
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  #59  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:50 PM
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Cummins does it in their large engines (Mainly the ISX), not to increase fuel economy, but to lengthen oil change interval.
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  #60  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Sean Watts View Post
Cummins has (or at least did) an option where a VERY small amount was drawn out of the sump into the fuel intake. The idea being that even a 0.1% gain in mileage would be money in the bank. BTW NOT the Dodge Ram mini Cummins.
The Cummins you are talking about hold like 10++ gallons of oil in the sump, so extending drain intervials makes a ton of sense.

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