Terry, I seem to recall this discussion in the past. What's the deal with the prohibition on removing the valve? Why is it impossible to return the valve and spring to the same place and have it function properly?

Is this issue unique to the 606?

Brain - I think that Alstair did a good job explaining in post #13 of Bodgit2's thread from when he encountered problems. Serious problem after replacing IP seals w210

I do not believe this is strictly a 606 issue. The valve in the 606 may sit higher in the IP and therefore be more exposed and prone to moving around than in previous pumps. The 606 IP is a milled aluminum body which may also come into play if over torqued or if torqued down with the valve misaligned.

Steve (Bodgit2) may have additional insights.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

**UPDATE**

So I took the DV out again, and replaced the crush washers. I did not replace the seals.... The aren't leaking, so I didn't think it was necessary to replace them. I noticed once the DV is off, the piece that the crush washer sits on will move around a little. After changing the crush washers, Torqued to spec, and put everything back together. I still have nailing, exactly as before. When I loosen the copper fuel lines at the injectors, all squirt fuel and I could not find one that points to the problem. The car will stuble more when I loosen each of the fuel lines.

So I decided to call a trusted mercedes indy mechanic here in town. When I told him that I took the DV valves off and replaced the o-rings, he said that the "pinging" is normal and should go away in 3000 miles. What do you all think about that?

I was thinking that I would get in there one more time and make sure all the parts down in the IP are OK and none are cracked, broken or stuck.

He might be correct.

The '86 cracked a #6 fuel line on a trip to NC. It ran on 5 for about 150 miles or so. After the new line was installed, it had a pronounced injector knock. I was really PO'd because I thought I screwed up the prechamber by running the cylinder without any fuel for all that distance.

But, after the return trip to NY........about 675 miles.......all was well again.

Damned if I can explain it............

I can't explain why it disappears either.

The issue is how bad the nailing you describe really is; if it is only a nosiy/clacking idle it will probably go away with time and may disappear faster if you do a DP.

If it sounds like an angry dwarf is in there with a large hammer trying to bust thru your block you should have it looked at soonest.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

..........hope to never have the pleasure..............

I thought I would give everyone an update on the resolution. I believe in passing information, but have to say I am humbled with this one.

Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions, they all were helpful.

After many hours of taking the manifold off, doing the ip seals again, having the injectors tested, getting knee deep into the IP, to almost sending my pump out to be rebuilt.... I decided to take it to a local Bosch shop (united diesel in Springfield) to take a look at it. It turns out that I had somehow switched 2 of the copper fuel lines at the injector pump when I originally did the job, and was causing timing issues (obviously). Don't ask me how I managed to do this, but I did.
I did all the o-rings at the same time, then went back to torque all 6 of the delivery valves at the same time. I should have done one DV, torqued, connected the fuel line, then move to the next.

The moral of the story is to either label the lines, or do one DV o-ring at a time.

Aw hell Carver, I;ve done that on a Chevy V8 ditributor and I should know better after hundreds of times.... must've been clacking like the dickens!

My experience was exactly like yours when I first did my delivery valves. I did not change out the copper crush, and only replaced the o-rings. I did torque it to specs, but when I started the engine, it made a lot of noise, or nailing, and did not run as it did before I made the repair. I redid the delivery valves, only this time I changed out the copper crush washers, and once started, the engine was a quiet as a mouse. If I were you, I would re-do the repair, changing out both the o-rings and copper crush washers. Another hint given by parrotofdoom is to rock the delivery valve as your screw it back into the ip. This helps keep the spring centered and you screw it in. Good luck

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96 E300d