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  #46  
Old 05-06-2011, 11:39 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,157
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie5555 View Post
Where can I get some cheap sleeves now that I have mine out??? Ed

Don't know about the quality or brand. But certainly very cheap. It's only for one, if you contact them, they might have more if you want to take a chance.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-240D-300D-350TD-Engine-Cylinder-Liner-Piston-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5643a7a98bQQitemZ370502248843QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries



.

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  #48  
Old 05-07-2011, 01:08 AM
Doktor Bert's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 2,670
I made one from a discarded tool for centering the timing cover on a 6.9 Litre Navistar Diesels. I drive the sleeves out with a hammer and press them back into place in a hydraulic press.

Do not hammer them in. They break easily.

The sleeves are undersize and will need to be bored and them honed to fit your pistons. You will also have to trim the tops of the sleeves in a mill as they will protrude above the deck.

Most shops (around here in Central California) charge $8.00 to $12.00 a hole to bore and hone and anywhere from $35.00 to $65.00 to deck the block.
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  #49  
Old 05-07-2011, 01:13 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
note; Each bore is supposed to be bored according to the piston which is going into it.
The tops will have to be trimmed...but still stick out above the top of the block...
You need to read the shop manual before you go much farther... you can not do it correctly just from information from the forum....
All sorts of things are very specific... the chamfering inside the top which allows the piston rings to be squeezed into the bore.... etc....
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  #50  
Old 05-11-2020, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Palo Alto CA
Posts: 18
My engine is a 1979 om617.952, rescued from the corner of a warehouse in 2012.
It had compression between 100psi and 250psi cold. I have the shop manual and have read through it.

In 2013 it was torn down, head done up, crank worked up including balance, block sleeved
and bored, then it sat. That machine shop has since closed down.

It is with another machinist now. We re-measured the crank, pistons, bores and sent all to the
hot tank.

The main and rod grinds as sitting appear to be in between STD and 1st spec, (2.7451-2.7458),
so I get to pay for another grind and polish, hooray!
The wrist pins in their bushings have a little play, so the bushings will be replaced. Another good
catch.
Appearance of pistons and bores are fine, no sign of seizure, scrape or pitting. This should be more
apparent after cleaning.

The pistons all say "1" (group 1?). We measured one at 3.761. We measured by difference the
piston-cylinder gaps. They were between 0.0025 to 0.0030, which is outside the spec
of 0.0017 to 0.0025.

I didn't get 100% satisfaction with the measuring because the guy seemed to be using measurement
shortcuts, so I plan to go back after everything is cleaned up real well, make absolute measurements,
document them in a clear table, and derive the differences from that.

Main question is that its possible the bores suck and we need to start over with new liners.
I am not confident about making this decision. I can get 5 Mahle liners for $125, so expecting
this to be a $400 decision. I'm looking for guidance from this forum before making additional instructions to the machinist.

The original idea was to pay machinist time to have them expertly measure, learn a lot about
the calculations and plan next steps.
The errors we found in the preceding work signals that participation in the measurement
and work order is necessary, but I could be happier with the organization of info and
patience/completeness of answers I'm getting, even after expressing my intent to learn from it
and do some followon projects. Perhaps they're thinking more about liability than information.

I'm in norcal (94306), machine shop choices are dwindling, so at this point am willing to travel
100 miles or more to work with a more om617-experienced technician who communicates well.

Got any leads?

thanks,
Stuart

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