China engine replacement 1980 240D
 

This is more for the benefit of having a record of the engine swap process for China, just for my future reference. If anything is of interest to anyone else, I guess that will just be gravy.....
Well, the wife was very unwilling {so what is new....}, but she steered China while I pulled here with the tractor. I needed the car in front of the garage, so that was the only way. At least I know the emergency brake works, cause I dragged the car through the rocks for 8-10 feet before I noticed the rear tires were just being dragged. Great......
Got the car in place, and the fun begins.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos001.jpg

Removed the battery tray, and it was starting to get eaten, along with the area underneath it. Need to get on that in a hurry!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos007.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos008.jpg

I removed the starter {Bosch rebuild}, unhooked the alternator {Bosch rebuild}, unhooked power steering assembly and shoved it behind headlight. Removed 3 bolts in AC compressor, and it is now hanging by the lines. I hope to swap engines without getting into the AC system, as it is pressurized at about 75 at 85 degrees. Can an engine be swapped whilst keeping the lines in place. I certainly hope so....
I drained what little oil the engine had in it, and drained the block also, along with hoses from firewall. Removed belts. Removed engine mount bolts, rear engine mount, oil line to dash. Removed all engine/tranny bolts.
I believe the engine is ready for pulling. I am pulling the engine only, tranny is staying. I hope I can pull it without crashing it through the condenser.
How far do they have to move forward to clear the tranny shaft?
I was covered with gunk, so didn't take as many pics as I would have liked. Will try and do better at that.....

rear engine mount
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos011.jpg

Engine mount arm, minus bolt
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos012.jpg

hanging Ac compressor
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...yphotos013.jpg

it can be done i just did it in y 300SD

same answer here i had to move the eingine forears about 3 inches to get everything to clear with the rad. out.


hope this might helps a bit. if you want pics from me let me know i will post some. the engine is hopefully going back in tomorrow, so let me know quick.

good luck it is not that hard of a job.

Jimmy, I have found it MUCH easier in most engine pulls I;ve done to unbolt the tranny and pull it off the converter before you pull the engine.

just had a thought.. remember to take the 6 torque converter bolts out. from the front of the engine at the bottom. should be 13mm, in sets of 2. you'll have to rotate the engine 120* each time to get to another set.

This is a standard tranny. I'm leaving tranny in place purely out of fear of bleeding the clutch! :eek:
Haven't I read on here before that a cheap clutch alignment tool for Volvo's will work on these cars? Would this be something that Napa sells?
Also, thanks for the info 79300sdtd. And heck yea, pics are always welcome. Crayon is first choice, but digital is a good second choice.....:D

what do you want pics of?

How exactly were you able to get the engine past the AC lines? I'm not fully familiar with the W116 SD's as far as how their AC lines are routed. Looks like I will have to try and keep everything up front and low.....

Actually, I found it at an AutoZone website: Motormite PN14522. It turns out that this part number is the same as the one used for aligning Chevy S10 clutches and as the tool for Mercedes-Benz manual clutches from 75-85.

You can borrow mine; it doesn't work too well but, is better than nothing.

Well, fwiw since I've done nothign but big block Chevys and older Mustangs, you'll never clear the rad with a tranny or even bellhousing attached to the block.

But I defer to someone who's done it on an MBz.

OR 2, get a tilter for the hoist. This way you can tilt the engine up and then out.

I thought this thread was about replacement engines from China.:eek:
Phew! I'm glad it's not. I could imagine a POS engine from China with injectors from India.:rolleyes:

Hey, did you get started without me??? :mad:

Well, I'll vouch for the disconnecting it first method, I've pulled 2 616's now, first one I did without trans, came out really easily. 2nd I did with trans attached (I saw several posts saying this was easier) and man...what a pita it turned into, took me a few hours extra with a virtually wedge pinned engine and several new scratches in the rust free engine bay of my nice '82...of all the ones to learn that on, why couldn't it have been the rusty '80?...

my lines are different than yours. mine run along the drivers side then through the fire wall. i unbolted the compressor and pulled it out of the way.

I took the rad/oil cooler assembly out, fan off the front. unbolted everything that held the trans. I only had to move the engine forward about 3 inches to get it up and out.

the engine is back in now. no one told me, or i was reluctant to ask, the bolts are different lengthwise on the 617.951. mainly the bottom two. i need bolts that are about an inch longer to bolt up down below.

i would only take the engine and trans out if i had a load leveler. i only had a steel bar in the ceiling and a comealong.

hope this all helps at least a bit

I need you the most for getting the other engine in, and tranny stabbed. I didn't want to push my luck. :o:o
Oh, and my maddening little lawn tractor project! :mad: Remember, nothing is more expensive than a cheap lawn tractor......;)


I went by O'Reilly's and got a $2.39 clutch alignment tool. Says it is for "Mercedes, Volvo and GM". Thanks for the offer senor Randy. :sombrero: {pardon my French} :D

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...240D/China.jpg

And, I've pulled one 617.912 and one 616, both with tranny attached. Both alone! Not fun. Do have a load leveler, though, and it sure does help.

Looks like it's coming along. :D